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92 xp. Any help appreciated.

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lloyd54123

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A little info first. This is only my second seadoo rebuild so I have an idea of what I'm doing but I still have a lot to learn. The craft I picked up had the electrical box demolished and the wrong cdi put in. I've managed to sort that out and get it to turn over. New fuel, new oil, cleaned the carb. I did find a piece of grey fuel hose for the pulse line with the blue gunk but nothing in the carb. So to the lake I went to see what other issues I could find. Allot of smoke on initial start up and wouldn't idle. Quick turn of the screw and it seemed to be running fine. I cruised around at half throttle then tried full. No problems. I stopped for a min and when I started throttling to head back it cut out. Wouldn't start back up. Got pulled to shore. Unfortunately it took a while to get back and the slow leak from missing rivets filled my hull over the battery. I dont think anything got in but I treated it as if it had. Killed 2 batteries trying to get it to run. Fogged to shit and pouring mixed gas into the plug holes. Funny thing, only way I got it to even remotely run was with the throtle wide open and the choke out. I'm going to say this is more likely a fuel delivery problem and could use some help as to where to start. I'm worried that there is a little bit of water in the engine and that's whats messing with it. Any ideas?
 
Easiest thing to check first is the fuel vent. If it is plugged it could have created a vacuum in fuel delivery system after running that length of time. But, to first address your concern of water in engine, immediately, if you have not already done so, pull the plugs and put them on grounding post. Crank with starter until all water is removed. None spraying out of plug holes. It also helps to spray fogging oil or XPS lube in through holes. Then fire it up as soon as possible.

Report back with results and symptoms.
 
As soon as I pulled it out of the water I attempted that. Nothing came out. When I got home I tried fogging oil and cranking to flush any little bit out that might be there. I will definitely check the vent. Thank you.
 
Vent isn't plugged. I dont know if you can see it but I have grey oil coming out my plug when cranking ( plug was loose). I'm for sure only firing on one cylinder. Both plugs are sparking. I've taken off my exhaust and I'm getting more consistent spurts of it trying. I'm getting exhaust coming through the carb. It's this because its not getting up to speed and creating a vacuum or could my timing be off?
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Did you rebuild the carbs with Oem Mikuni parts and did you replace the fuel selector and clean or replace the strainer? Sounds like you have a fuel delivery problem.
 
Carbs I only cleaned out because I'm waiting on a kit. Strainer I cleaned. Fuel selector is letting fuel through no matter what position its on. I did however find that my rotary valve is stuck. Pistons keep going but it won't... what the **** did I do lol. So on to that disaster. Thank you guys for the direction.
 
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Drive gear is stripped. But you should investigate why. Something prob jammed the valve disk. With that problem and age of the motor I'd tear it down.
 
I have it mostly torn down but didnt have the time to open up the crank. If I find that its just the gear should I be looking at replacing the whole crank anyway?
 
The brass gear on the crank is what strips. You have to rebuild the crank to replace that gear. If the crank is original then yes it's time anyway. Check pwcengine.com for the crank and whatever else you need for the motor. Good stuff good prices. Do not use SBT. I use OSD for everything else.

Did you find any clues yet to why the rv locked up?
 
Ok so... it was absolutely the brass gear. It literally melted. Is it possible to replace just that gear? I see a large c clip but didnt feel any give. The oil in there looked really bad. Does the crank not pull new oil in? I also found that my piston has some deep groves and a little bit missing. Could this be overheating? Or maybe bits of the gear floating around? 20170727_174140.jpg 20170727_185701.jpg
 
Ok here's what I see happened in this order

- circlip came out of piston caused grooves in piston and broke a piece of the piston skit off

- broken piece of skirt or some shrapnel got jammed in the rotary valve

- jammed rv stripped the brass gear


The brass gear is not replaceable without rebuilding the crank. They do not fail on their own so it's almost certain that the failure that causes the gear to strip has also compromised the crank bearings. So if the gear is damaged the crank needs rebuilt. You'll need to split the cases take it the crank get a rebuilt one and clean up those cases real good along with rebuilding the top end. You'll need to have the cylinder from that damaged piston checked to see if the grooves go deeper than the allowable overbore. If they do you will need a new or both new cylinders. Both must be the same bore. Work with Fullboreonline or a reputable engine machine shop familiar with the high tolerances that these engines need. Be careful they must fully understand the techniques of boring these cylinders and matching the cylinders to the pistons. Get yourself a free shop manual download on line for details. Follow it for rebuild of your motor. Or if you're not inclined look in to having Fullboreonline do your rebuild for you. DO NOT USE SBT!!
 
As far as what caused the circlip to come out I'd need to know the history of the motor and is irrelevant at this point since your in to total rebuild and the cause will be addressed through that.
 
With the damage done to this engine you will need to rebuild the crank. This tool pulls the rv drive shaft from the case. The brass gear then comes off the rv shaft. Pressing the rv shaft and seal back in is critical and needs to be done with the engine removed and best if cases are split. Get yourself a manual it will explain everything.
 
wabash said:
Ok here's what I see happened in this order

- circlip came out of piston caused grooves in piston and broke a piece of the piston skit off

- broken piece of skirt or some shrapnel got jammed in the rotary valve

- jammed rv stripped the brass gear


The brass gear is not replaceable without rebuilding the crank. They do not fail on their own so it's almost certain that the failure that causes the gear to strip has also compromised the crank bearings. So if the gear is damaged the crank needs rebuilt. You'll need to split the cases take it the crank get a rebuilt one and clean up those cases real good along with rebuilding the top end. You'll need to have the cylinder from that damaged piston checked to see if the grooves go deeper than the allowable overbore. If they do you will need a new or both new cylinders. Both must be the same bore. Work with Fullboreonline or a reputable engine machine shop familiar with the high tolerances that these engines need. Be careful they must fully understand the techniques of boring these cylinders and matching the cylinders to the pistons. Get yourself a free shop manual download on line for details. Follow it for rebuild of your motor. Or if you're not inclined look in to having Fullboreonline do your rebuild for you. DO NOT USE SBT!!
Click to expand...

Pardon my ignorance but what's the good bad and ugly about SBT? I just rebuilt mine last year with SBT reman crank and am wondering.
 
SBT provides high volume low cost reman engines. They will take any engine in any condition as a core and you'd be appalled at what they'll reuse in your "new rebuilt" engine. First off they will tout their strong welded cranks. Well welding a crank isn't necessarily a good thing. First off it signs the death sentence to the crank. It's the last time it can be rebuilt. Once welded it's done. Secondly cranks are usually welded because they are built with sub par fittment between parts. It's only in extremely high output motors where welded cranks are a plus and in that case those guys know what they're doing and it costs lots of money. SBT is doing it so they can use worn out or out of tolerance cheap parts. Also SBT will repair a broken or cracked case. I've seen and I think they even show pics of on their site cases with huge holes in them from rod failure that they have welded up and reused in a reman. That case is useless as a core to anyone else and will most likely fail outside of their 1 yr warranty. They will often times send out engines with cylinders bored to the max tolerance meaning that when they are done throw them away. SBT pistons use snap rings instead of circlips for pin retention. Snap rings have to be specifically installed with the gap facing up or down. Otherwise they will come out and destroy the motor. Some guys will say their pistons are fine and even I am running a set right now but it wasn't my choice and when I do it again I won't use SBT pistons. Why take the chance. The pluses? Well they are cheaper at least marginally but if you rebuild yourself you can be about the same cost or lesss and have better parts and peace of mind. They are fast. They usually have exchange motors ready to go.

Go to Fullboreonline they specifically state they will not accept an SBT motor as a core largely due to the welded crank and possibility of repaired case.
 
Ive found some local parts and I'm starting to reassemble the engine. Both my previous 580 cranks have the pulse line on the left however this one is on the right. Im wondering if this is a different year crank? Or did some models have different cranks?
 
More questions!! Im observing oil coming out my exhaust and the machine revs really high. The posts I've read point to the crank seals. I know this crank sat for a while. Is there anything I can check before sending it off to be rebuilt?
 
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