717 single carb oil injection pump lever installation

[CharlieH]

Upon removing the carb from my 2002 GTI LE I noticed the return spring was no longer attached to the oil pump lever arm. I removed the pump lever arm and reattached the spring however the return spring is not returning the lever arm fully when the throttle is released. The arm returns about halfway back to the idle position mark when the throttle is released. Slack remains in the pump cable so the cable is not preventing the pump lever from returning to the mark. I can move the lever to the mark with very little effort using my fingers. The return spring does not appear to be bent or "sprung" in any way. I'm fairly confident I have attached the spring to the correct locations. Is it necessary to (somehow) wind the spring one turn before attaching it to the pump lever arm? As far as I could determine the seadoo service manual does not describe how to install the spring.

 

[CharlieH]

 

[CharlieH]

I attached the spring at the points shown in this parts diagram.

 

[Dtrain55!]

I had the same problem on a gts after I removed the carb for rebuild, I thought the spring was broke. the cable came off the oil ,pump lever by accident. I had to rotate the oil pump lever 1 turn around and it put pressure back on the spring. I hooked the cable back to lever and worked fine

 

[CharlieH]

Okay, so the pump valve stem the lever is on can be rotated 360 degrees to allow me to wind the spring?

 

[Dtrain55!]

yes if you look at the pump from the side wind the level counter clockwise it will put pressure on the spring then when you hook back up the cable the oil marks on the pump should line up

 

[Dtrain55!]

when there is tension on spring the arm should aim straight down] at least thats the way mine is

 

[awdunn]

This pic from 96 GTI... later models cable attach is different, but lever position and adjusment is same.
This was taken using a mirror then flipped back "forward".

 

[CharlieH]

I've installed the lever. Photo below. Carb is reinstalled. The ski now starts very easily. I have adjusted the idle out of the water to 3000 rpm (was very high after rebuild, 4600 rpm) and readjusted the oil lever to align marks. It runs very rough at idle. Removing spark plugs after idling briefly I found both very "wet". Should I adjust the low screw? The low screw was set to about 3/4 turn open before carb rebuild, current screw settings are 1 for low and 0 for high. When I removed the carb to rebuild it I found the carb was very clean, it actually did not look to be 20 years old and it looked like it had never been taken apart. The internal filter had just a little debris packed at the end of it. I did not replace the seat, needle, pop-off spring, or lever. I only replaced the internal filter, check valves, diaphragms, O-rings, and gaskets since the other parts looked fine. I don't know the history of the machine, the previous owner maintained it well, he may have had the carb replaced at some point. Some hoses were also obviously newer like the pulse hose to the carb. I've had the ski for 5 seasons. Other than being a little hard to cold start it always ran well until last summer. Last summer and this summer it would idle but stall when attempting to accelerate. Rebuilding the carb apparently solved the cold start problem but it still stalls when attempting to accelerate. I've read everything I can find on this forum related to the stalling. A couple of years ago I replaced the grey fuel lines and the vent check valves out of caution. I have just finished replacing the fuel selector valve based on what I have read. That may be part of the problem as I noticed a brief odor of gas around the valve each time I open and closed it. I also just tested the voltage at the battery when idling, I get only 12.6 to 12.7 volts at the battery posts when idling (same voltage reading as when not running). I have not tested the ski after replacing the selector. Based on the low voltage when idling do I have a bad rectifier? Or are there other checks I need to make first?

 

[POPPS]

Cut ignition wires back 1/2 inch,,,if you rev the motor, does the charge go into 13 volt…load test the battery…check compression

 

[CharlieH]

The voltage at the battery does not change when I rev the motor. The battery load test is good. Compression with engine cool is 140 in one cylinder and 135 in the other.

 

[mikidymac]

Always replace needles and seats and verify your using only genuine Mikuni carb parts. If not do it again.

 

[CharlieH]

I did use a Mikuni kit. All Mikuni parts.

 

[mikidymac]

I did use a Mikuni kit. All Mikuni parts.

By your words “spark plugs looked wet. I did not replace the needles seats or springs”

Like I said, you need to do everything on these carbs fully and correctly. Replace the needles and seats and correct arms and springs. Leaking needles and seats with causing flooding resulting in your poor idle and wet plugs.

I’m not saying this to be a jerk. I’m saying this from 30 years of experience and a genuine desire to get your ski and everyone’s here running the best it possibly can.

 

[CharlieH]

Alright, I will rebuild completely. I'll have to order the parts. Replace the high and low jets also?

I had trouble removing the retaining screw for the seat so I did not remove it. I did not try to impact it in fear of damaging the carb in the process, also I had planned to use my mityvac to check the pop-off pressure but found that tool only goes to 30 psi. I didn't want to replace spring, needle and arm without checking the pop-off pressure. I will make up or buy what I need to measure the pop-off pressure. Thanks!

 

[mikidymac]

Jets don’t have to be replaced, just cleaned.

If you replace the arms, pins needles and seats and springs with new typically pop-off is good to go. But it’s still better to check than to do it all over again.