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717 engine modifications

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Slowmoe

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Hi all,

First of all, the majority of my two stroke experience is with Yamaha Banshees, so some of this may or may not apply.
In the Banshee engine, you have two cylinders, which are roughly 175cc each, 350cc total and the engine produces approximately 35-40 hp at the crank. With mild to extreme engine modifications you can coax an extra 5-60 (yes 60) hp out of the standard 350cc engine. This is through the use of anything from aftermarket exhaust to porting, big carbs, methanol etc.

The Rotax 717 is roughly twice the size and, in stock form, produces roughly twice the power. It seems that a substantial amount of performance may be exracted with a calculated array of modifications. Since aftermarket exhaust is out of the question (to the best of my knowledge), I wanted to focus on two things; compression and port timing. Again, my experience with these engines is very limited, so bear with me.

After doing a brief search for compression ratio, it appears that the stock compression ratio (UCCR) for the 717 is a very mild 6.2:1. For comparison, pump gas is still feasable at a ratio of 11:1, leaving a pretty big gap there. My suggestion is to either mill enough off the cylinder deck or cylinder head to achieve .045" squish, or sending it off to someone like mull engineering to mill and rechamber (recommended) the head. On the Banshee this modification results in a horsepower increase of 5-10 hp, so I would assume that 7-12 hp increase per engine across the powerband would be achievable at a cost of roughly $75-125 per engine plus shipping. Oh yeah, the increased compression would dictate richer jetting, so that would need to be factored in.

On the Banshee, increases in port timing (opening the intake/ transfer/ exhaust ports sooner) will yield very significant increases in midrange and top end power. Now, not being an expert in Seadoo, my next suggestion is based solely on assumption; either remove 1mm from the piston crown in the exhaust port area or add base gaskets to raise the cylinders 1mm (this would require additional milling of the decks to the order of the thickness of the additional gaskets). On the Banshee this typically nets 6-10 hp, so I would assume that 10 hp at each engine would be achievable. The downside to this modification is that the increased port timing and subsequent shortning of the power stroke would decrease low end power, which would be offset by the increased compression. The cost of additional base gaskets and milling of the cylinder decks shouldnt run more than $200 or so per engine.

So, in a nutshell:

1. Mill and rechamber heads on both engines: $400 (with shipping)
2. Additional base gasket(s) and associated cylinder decking $400
3. Jetting for both engines $50-75?

That's $850-875 and, if my assumptions are correct should get you an increase of (conservatively) 15-20 hp on each engine with little to no loss in bottom end (due to compression increase).

Thoughts?
 
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This is just my opinion so take it for what it's worth. On a 15 year old engine I would do nothing. SeaDoo does a pretty good job of getting max HP from their engines, anything you do is going to effect reliability. You've already got 170hp in a small boat. There are a couple of mods. you can make that's not going to effect reliability, a performance intake grate and performance impeller. You'll probably get 2-3 more MPH. Other than that I would leave things alone.

If you're ready to sink a couple of grand into this boat, my advice would be to sell it and buy a faster boat. The 787 engine is basically the same with 25 more HP.

Lou
 
This is just my opinion so take it for what it's worth. On a 15 year old engine I would do nothing. SeaDoo does a pretty good job of getting max HP from their engines, anything you do is going to effect reliability. You've already got 170hp in a small boat. There are a couple of mods. you can make that's not going to effect reliability, a performance intake grate and performance impeller. You'll probably get 2-3 more MPH. Other than that I would leave things alone.

If you're ready to sink a couple of grand into this boat, my advice would be to sell it and buy a faster boat. The 787 engine is basically the same with 25 more HP.

Lou

Buy a factory pipe and run race gas...
 
Too much money to put in those 717's. They are good engines stock and will last a long time. You will propbably just cook them faster messing with them. You would be better off getting a hold of 2 787's and reto fit them in. In a 14' boat that extra 50HP will move you fast but suck more gas. For the money just buy some new impellers and keep the jet pumps in good shape.
 
Do you think that the 787 gets its 25hp from just an extra 70cc? Nah probably 5 or so. The majority of the extra power comes from more radical port timing, which is achievable by the implementation of a power valve. Without the power valve it would still make 110 hp, but be a dog on the bottom end because of a shorter power stroke and an exhaust pulse that arrives to quickly to be trapped by the slow closing exhaust port.

By raising the cylinder you are putting the port timing more inline with a 787 (My theory) but like I said earlier, without a power valve it would be significantly weaker in the low end. This is made up by the increased compression ratio equalizing things down low and really helping add a lot of hp up top when the boat gets on the pipe. I really dont see how this could affect reliability much if at all.

And as far as the head work and bump in compression, yeah it will put a little more stress on the crank, rods crank bearings, but it seems like failures in these components are few and far in between leading me to assume they are somewhat overbuilt..
 
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Most people know the power valves are where the power is. Most 2-stokes moved to them in the late 90's-2000's before the the 4-stokes took over in the water craft world. I am sure the engine could handle the higher compression but if you suffer reliability who wants to swim sometimes a few miles to shore if the engines let go. The 717's are very good in low end power and thats why they are good to pull tubes and skiers with them. You can try it an see but you might have to do the whole top end if the engines have a bunch of hours on them. You can't tell the hours on them unless you take to a dealer or get the aftermarker MPEM tool to read them. Most of the time the higher compression on worn engine or high hour engine kills the rings.
 
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I believe my engines have around 120 hours on them. Not sure if thats considered a lot..

Dunno, just seems like if a 350cc ATV engine can run 65hp at the wheels, on pump gas, and be totally reliable, that this one should be reliable with 100-110....?
 
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I don't think that you are going to find too many people on this forum that are going to agree with you, myself included. It sounds to me like you already have your mind made up. Hey it's your money your boat, go for it.

Lou
 
Cooling, Oil, and Fuel settings is main thing that will eat them up. The more power you make you to need to have enough fuel and water to cool them since air doesn't cut it. Water must be the issue with most of these engines for all makes. They do seem to last longer on land and that might be because you can usually see the issue faster than on water since how the engies are placed. Most of the time the life of the 2-stoke boats/PWC go quicker because of neglect. No one checks the oil lines, changes the oil filters, store them correctly, put in the worng oil.

The only thing changing how the eninge runs in the boat could make it worse since the whole setup is for a boat and most of the performace settings out there are for 2-3 seater PWC. Like open air elements hurt the performance of the boats but help on the PWC. Most people shoot for reliabilty on the boats more than engine performance. Thats all you can do is try the mods and see how it goes. I would get an extra set ot heads incase it doesn't work out you can go back to the stock setup. Either way you could sell the moded heads of to PWC guys if it does't work out.
 
Hmm ok. Does anyone know where to order the factory pipes from? I read somewhere that they offer a 20hp increase per engine..

And as far as compression, I don't really see how raising it would negatively affect a boat's driveability vs. PWC; increased torque and hp across the rpm range....Just make sure you jet up the carbs to compensate for the extra heat created and you should be good to go. Having properly functioning carbs/ oil system should be key as far as reliability goes.

So with pipe/ head/ porting I believe it's realistic to expect a 30hp increase per engine. On my little 14' boat that would be almost like having a third engine...

I guess the main concern here is either people believing that the engines are maxed out from the factory, or that the engines are not capable of withstanding any increase in power. I'm gonna do some research on the performance PWC sites and see what I can dig up...
 
If you want to get the low down on upgrades to the boats check out GroupK's website. They go over testing and modifity the boats giving you best options and changes to make and what your end results will look like.
 
Yeah I checked out that site...Very interesting. After reading that it makes sense why people might have second thoughts about modifying these engines. According to them you CAN run a factory pipe AND more compression AND portwork but they make it seem like you will grenade your engine unless you let them do all the work because they know some trade secrets, which may or may not be 100% true...

It seems like detonation, particularly in the rear cylinder may be a problem that is tough to get around once heavy mods are in place, and is something that they remedy by running higher compression in the front cylinder to equalize the tendency to detonate between the two cylinders and reliably combat the problem by jetting.

For a recreational boater, it seems like the best shot at increased performance and peace of mind may be a well set up factory pipe and an aftermarket impeller. At a cost of roughly $2000 ($1,000 per engine) the price is high but I'm sure the performance increase would make it feel like a whole different boat. An alternative would be to increase the compression by getting the heads milled and re-chambered and run 92 octane gasoline, along with a new impeller. I would expect 8-10 hp per engine with the milled head, 15-20 with the pipe.

For someone with money to burn looking for 120 plus horsepower out of a each engine AND maintaining a reasonable amount of reliability:

1. Port work. I believe that the base gasket mod I mentioned would be good for 5-10hp, or, as a better (more expensive) alternative sending the cylinders to a professional, which will cost around $300 per engine which should net 10 or more per engine.

2. Have the heads milled, and rechambered. Probably another 10 hp here

3. Run AVGAS or a full race fuel to prevent detonation. I believe this is the key to being able to get a big increase in power without blowing up your engine.

4. Run a factory pipe. Advertised 20hp.

4. Jet accordingly.

5. Run an aftermarket prop.

For someone willing to make an initial investment of roughly $2500-3000 and can afford to run aviation fuel, I think this setup would be sick and put the HP figures above 110 as a conservative estimate. This would be best done during a rebuild so you get the peace of mind from having new crank bearings and seals. Of course you COULD just sell your boat and use the extra money to buy a better boat, but if you do a full rebuild with the performance mods listed, you know that you have a fresh setup that had plenty of life left on it.

Question: is the 110hp 787 engine bottom end very similar to the 717? I ask because if this is the case, then the accelerated wear issue to the 717 bottom end from an engine operating in the 100-110hp range shouldnt really be that big of a deal if the 787's aren't having issues...?
 
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