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3d exhaust meltdown
- Thread starter rix5005
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The 3d I looked at that had blown the rear exhaust pipe had a burst rubber pipe just after the plastic melted coupler.
At a guess a build up of pressure to blow the rubber pipe to bits and extreme heat to melt the coupler. Got to be a blockage to blow a rubber pipe to bits.
Link to parts; http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=121&B=6
At a guess a build up of pressure to blow the rubber pipe to bits and extreme heat to melt the coupler. Got to be a blockage to blow a rubber pipe to bits.
Link to parts; http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=121&B=6
Its item number 48 exhaust hose that bursts and item 76 and 78 thats melting. As I said earlier post mine are alloy couplers.2007 DI. I would check the upper resonator for blockages its a plastic part and looks like a black pan pipe. And resonator extension last plastic part before exhaust exit for blockages.
Thanks man pardon my ignorance but what does a black pan pipe look like i've no idea what a pan pipe is
Another Meltdown
So, I'm riding in San Diego harbor, and the ski dies on me and will not restart.
As I'm bobbing around in the water, waiting for a rescue, the ski begins to sink. When I finally get a tow back to shore, the ski is fully submerged.
Thankfully, the water flush procedure works and I get all of the water blown out of the engine (Thanks fuel injection !)
When I get home and get the floor panel off, I find that the hose to the resonator is completely blown off. The plastic inlet / hose fitting for the resonator has melted and shrunk, so the hose is now too big to properly grab the fitting.
OK, sad story. But I do have a question.
I saw the nice work done by rik5005 to bypass the resonators.
Is there a comercially available replacement for the stupid plastic resonators?
Regards, Brian.
So, I'm riding in San Diego harbor, and the ski dies on me and will not restart.
As I'm bobbing around in the water, waiting for a rescue, the ski begins to sink. When I finally get a tow back to shore, the ski is fully submerged.
Thankfully, the water flush procedure works and I get all of the water blown out of the engine (Thanks fuel injection !)
When I get home and get the floor panel off, I find that the hose to the resonator is completely blown off. The plastic inlet / hose fitting for the resonator has melted and shrunk, so the hose is now too big to properly grab the fitting.
OK, sad story. But I do have a question.
I saw the nice work done by rik5005 to bypass the resonators.
Is there a comercially available replacement for the stupid plastic resonators?
Regards, Brian.
Yes on the jumping. But up until now, no on the clamps. Should have been keeping up on that, would have noticed the loose pipe before I sank the ski. Also noticing smoke in the hull, think that there is a problem with the water collector or other hoses in that area.
That's gonna cost ya
Took my 3DDI to Desert Dog in Fountain Hills, AZ for repair. Here's what they found.
At the primary water feed fitting into the exhaust, last one down the pipe, the fitting had come out of the exhaust (probable manufacturing defect). So the fitting was still attached to the hose and all of the water that is supposed to go into the exhaust, was going into the hull. With no water in the exhaust, the hot gas basically melted the back of the upper plastic resonator, blowing melted bits of plastic into the styrofoam and allowing water to run in from the exhaust port and straight into the hull.
Yippee !
So, looking at exhaust system removal, repair (hopefully) of the fitting threads in the exhaust, replacement of both plastic resonators and a partridge in a pear tree.
Took my 3DDI to Desert Dog in Fountain Hills, AZ for repair. Here's what they found.
At the primary water feed fitting into the exhaust, last one down the pipe, the fitting had come out of the exhaust (probable manufacturing defect). So the fitting was still attached to the hose and all of the water that is supposed to go into the exhaust, was going into the hull. With no water in the exhaust, the hot gas basically melted the back of the upper plastic resonator, blowing melted bits of plastic into the styrofoam and allowing water to run in from the exhaust port and straight into the hull.
Yippee !
So, looking at exhaust system removal, repair (hopefully) of the fitting threads in the exhaust, replacement of both plastic resonators and a partridge in a pear tree.
Water cooled exhaust...
Someone may have already brought it up, I just came across the thread....but usually, if you melt a part of your exhaust system, it's usually due to a lack of cooling.
Your exhaust is water injected. If one of your calibrated fitting has sand in it, it will stop this cooling affect or slow it down dramatically, causing it to overheat.........
I see Dave's helping you out on this one too.....so, I'm sure he'll lead you on the right path.......
Someone may have already brought it up, I just came across the thread....but usually, if you melt a part of your exhaust system, it's usually due to a lack of cooling.
Your exhaust is water injected. If one of your calibrated fitting has sand in it, it will stop this cooling affect or slow it down dramatically, causing it to overheat.........
I see Dave's helping you out on this one too.....so, I'm sure he'll lead you on the right path.......
calibrated fitting
Where would i find my calibrated fitting i would like to check it out anyway
Where would i find my calibrated fitting i would like to check it out anyway
Year model.....?
Please correct your avatar to reflect the year model of your 3D.
Because I didn't know which year you had, I think I went with the 2005. Follow this link, it's part #3. This elbow is only one of a few you should find in your cooling system.
The Rotax 2 stroke engines use these calibrated fittings in lieu of a thermostat. The cooling water coming in from your jet pump, the supply, needs to have some kind of distribution system so the water is allowed to build up back pressure. This ensures the entire engine is flooded. This will also supply a specific amount of water to what ever part of the engine it's being supplied. You cannot remove these and replace them with a standard nipple. In that part I listed above, look on the side. You will see a stamped number. This is the size of your fitting........
If your exhaust melted down, take off that fitting and blow through it or check it for any obstruction. It's usually sand that gets into them......:cheers:
Please correct your avatar to reflect the year model of your 3D.
Because I didn't know which year you had, I think I went with the 2005. Follow this link, it's part #3. This elbow is only one of a few you should find in your cooling system.
The Rotax 2 stroke engines use these calibrated fittings in lieu of a thermostat. The cooling water coming in from your jet pump, the supply, needs to have some kind of distribution system so the water is allowed to build up back pressure. This ensures the entire engine is flooded. This will also supply a specific amount of water to what ever part of the engine it's being supplied. You cannot remove these and replace them with a standard nipple. In that part I listed above, look on the side. You will see a stamped number. This is the size of your fitting........
If your exhaust melted down, take off that fitting and blow through it or check it for any obstruction. It's usually sand that gets into them......:cheers:
When you say take off the part you mean the elbow fitting that you linked yes?
i have updated avator my doo is the 2005 800cc
thanks for the help
Yes....
Yes, those elbow fittings you see in your cooling system are calibrated fittings. They work regulating your cooling water so the delivery is spread out to the entire engine and each part is getting the proper amount by the size of the orifice in the fitting.
Remove that one, it's easy to get to. Check it for any blockage like a sand particle. Beach sand is the normal cause of a stopped up fitting.
When you do this, you'll notice a number on the side of this elbow. This is your calibrated size. You can ont take off an 18 and put a 22 in it's place. Looking inside the fitting, you'll notice a def change in the dimension of the flow rates that are capable to passing through the orifice........:cheers:
Yes, those elbow fittings you see in your cooling system are calibrated fittings. They work regulating your cooling water so the delivery is spread out to the entire engine and each part is getting the proper amount by the size of the orifice in the fitting.
Remove that one, it's easy to get to. Check it for any blockage like a sand particle. Beach sand is the normal cause of a stopped up fitting.
When you do this, you'll notice a number on the side of this elbow. This is your calibrated size. You can ont take off an 18 and put a 22 in it's place. Looking inside the fitting, you'll notice a def change in the dimension of the flow rates that are capable to passing through the orifice........:cheers:
Thanks seadoosnipe
took off the elbow no sign of a blockage anywhere any where else i should look was talking to a guy and he said that sand may get stuck in bottom of exhaust
this is big job to get off don't really want to do it for nothing any signs their might be sand in exhaust?
took off the elbow no sign of a blockage anywhere any where else i should look was talking to a guy and he said that sand may get stuck in bottom of exhaust
this is big job to get off don't really want to do it for nothing any signs their might be sand in exhaust?
firstly i think the 3d is a terrific design and i love it in the big surf in south australia.
i have had two exhaust system meltdowns. both after flat water, shallow, muddy type sand. usually in this type of bottom i have had no problem. but if there is the slightest blockage the whole system heats up and holes melt into the joiner T piece. which looks like a piece of cheap rainwater drain pipe. then the rest of the system heats up and the plastic pieces shrink. the exhaust fumes escape into the sealed area of the hull and the engine chokes and stops.
about a thousand bucks (aust) each time for parts and labour.
would love to see the straight through system as i have been thinking about what i would do next time. can you post some pictures.
what do you think would happen to sucking up sea water with a straight through system when you are upside down in the surf,\.
a bit scared of changing from standard as all the internal diameters of the water cooling tubes are tuned.
these days i am just paranoid about keeping an eye on the water cooling outlet tell tale on the port bow.
bolton
i have had two exhaust system meltdowns. both after flat water, shallow, muddy type sand. usually in this type of bottom i have had no problem. but if there is the slightest blockage the whole system heats up and holes melt into the joiner T piece. which looks like a piece of cheap rainwater drain pipe. then the rest of the system heats up and the plastic pieces shrink. the exhaust fumes escape into the sealed area of the hull and the engine chokes and stops.
about a thousand bucks (aust) each time for parts and labour.
would love to see the straight through system as i have been thinking about what i would do next time. can you post some pictures.
what do you think would happen to sucking up sea water with a straight through system when you are upside down in the surf,\.
a bit scared of changing from standard as all the internal diameters of the water cooling tubes are tuned.
these days i am just paranoid about keeping an eye on the water cooling outlet tell tale on the port bow.
bolton
I hear What your saying about sea water entering the pipe when upside down. Mine sits in the water level when upside down and I try and yank the lanyard out straight away. But in big surf its sometimes hard to get back to your ski and put it right way up. and it ends up on the beach LoL.
I thought of altering the exhaust outlet for a flat type one that mostly found on stand ups. But thought it might add to problems. I dont think much water would get in and up to the motor the way the pipe is routed now. The only mod on the exhaust ive done is remove the resornator pipes. It sound really bad ass and I have more responce on take off.
Top end is peeking off but I think its down to the limiter.
I thought of altering the exhaust outlet for a flat type one that mostly found on stand ups. But thought it might add to problems. I dont think much water would get in and up to the motor the way the pipe is routed now. The only mod on the exhaust ive done is remove the resornator pipes. It sound really bad ass and I have more responce on take off.
Top end is peeking off but I think its down to the limiter.
Hi Mark. I see your from my neck of the woods. You've come to the right place here to find out what things to expect to go wrong with your 3D di. Can you tell us in another thread what your ski's engine needs doing to it.
The engine is identical to the 951cc Di motors found in the Seadoo XP di. Apart from it being 4cc smaller.
Send me a pm with your phone number and I'll meet up with you to see what can be fixed.
You can allso click on the PARTS link top right hand corner for full breakdown of parts for the 3D di.
Guys
Went out again last week and after an hour boom!!! gone
brought ashore and home to find exhaust outlet melted so bit the bullet and removed the head pipe completly
on doing this i could access calibrated fittings at rear
i proceeded to remove and low and behold sand in the calibrated fitting and inlet block solid
cleaned and will be taking back on the water to check it out as soon as i get new exhaust outlet
thanks you guys for all your hellp i would be screwed without it
special to seadoosnipe and dave :cheers::cheers::cheers:
Went out again last week and after an hour boom!!! gone
brought ashore and home to find exhaust outlet melted so bit the bullet and removed the head pipe completly
on doing this i could access calibrated fittings at rear
i proceeded to remove and low and behold sand in the calibrated fitting and inlet block solid
cleaned and will be taking back on the water to check it out as soon as i get new exhaust outlet
thanks you guys for all your hellp i would be screwed without it
special to seadoosnipe and dave :cheers::cheers::cheers:
Have just had this issue with my 2006 3D-DI. I blew through all the calibrated fittings and all seemed ok. I found that the "T" piece on top of the fuel tank that directs water down to the pipes had broken so I replaced that and replaced the plastic resonators that melted an thought it would be fixed. So put it back in the water and just cruised around for 10 minutes came back to shore and pulled the rear deck off just to find that my new resonators were melted again. I pulled out the header pipe and the tuned pipe, what I found was that the water goes in through the calibrated fitting into a water jacket/chamber and then goes through 3 small holes about 1/8 inch diameter in the flow of the exhaust gas, two of these holes were blocked completely and one was partitially blocked. I've cleaned out the holes and have put the exhaust pipes back in, I will put my new resonators in on the weekend and hopefully all will be good.
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