• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

2021 GTI SE 130 Ruff Idle at start up? normal ??

Status
Not open for further replies.
I have a new GTI 130 that done the same thing today. Was idling out and started running rough. Shut it on and off a few times and seemed to smooth out some. Also if I start at idle and slow but smooth give it throttle it will skip until I get to 3500 or 4000 rpm’s. When I put mine in for the 1st time it had no brake or reverse. Bad switch at the lever, quick fix for that. I hope all these problems are not from quality control issues due to the pandemic-employee shortage......
 
I’m happy to say the rough idle has not shown up again. But my 170 now has an intermittent fuel sender fault Grrr. I do think the pandemic caused some issues.
 
I too am having a big issue with periodic and unpredictable rough idle. Took it to the dealer who did a service, cked codes and replaced plugs but its still happening.
I am at wits end with this periodic issue and now see others like you share my problem. Have you any ideas for me? I would appreciate imput

Lee
 
Seen this recently. Changed plugs as soon as it happened and that made a difference.

I've seen a few now that kill spark plugs.
Not sure why, but no spark at all and it doesn't look like it's fouled.
I wonder if it's the new coils putting out too much power and killing the plugs?

I also wonder if seadoo engineers designed the ecm software to detect a misfire and shut down a coil like the first 4 techs did. I say this because a restart fixes the issue.


Curious about something. Next time you go to start cold. Hold it full throttle and crank for 5 seconds . Then let go and try and start normally.

( thinking maybe a leaking injector) or maybe a batch of bad ones. I've seencthis before as well. But mostly older ones or sunken ones.
 
Seen this recently. Changed plugs as soon as it happened and that made a difference.

I've seen a few now that kill spark plugs.
Not sure why, but no spark at all and it doesn't look like it's fouled.
I wonder if it's the new coils putting out too much power and killing the plugs?

I also wonder if seadoo engineers designed the ecm software to detect a misfire and shut down a coil like the first 4 techs did. I say this because a restart fixes the issue.


Curious about something. Next time you go to start cold. Hold it full throttle and crank for 5 seconds . Then let go and try and start normally.

( thinking maybe a leaking injector) or maybe a batch of bad ones. I've seencthis before as well. But mostly older ones or sunken ones.
Mekanix, you suggested at my next cold start I hold it full throttle and crank for 5 sec and then let go and try to start normally. I was wondering what I should look for while doing this and why I would want to do this? Thank you,

Lee
 
Mekanix, you suggested at my next cold start I hold it full throttle and crank for 5 sec and then let go and try to start normally. I was wondering what I should look for while doing this and why I would want to do this? Thank you,

Lee
I'm thinking just doing that will keep the fuel pump off and the injectors/ coils won't fire. This will clear anything that may be in the cylinders. So, moisture, fuel, oil, anything else.

The idea here is that it may clean off rhe plugs a little by having the air flow through there.

Mainly look for it to start and run normally after doing this.


I'm really thinking it has something to do with the high power coils though. I remember with the first 4 techs that if a coil fails for a second that the ecu shuts it down. And only retries that coil when you shut down completely and restart.

Around 2010 that changed and a failure only means a short time where the coil turns off and then tries again to fire. Sort of like self resetting. Maybe the coils or the ecu has a protection circuit...
 
I'm thinking just doing that will keep the fuel pump off and the injectors/ coils won't fire. This will clear anything that may be in the cylinders. So, moisture, fuel, oil, anything else.

The idea here is that it may clean off rhe plugs a little by having the air flow through there.

Mainly look for it to start and run normally after doing this.


I'm really thinking it has something to do with the high power coils though. I remember with the first 4 techs that if a coil fails for a second that the ecu shuts it down. And only retries that coil when you shut down completely and restart.

Around 2010 that changed and a failure only means a short time where the coil turns off and then tries again to fire. Sort of like self resetting. Maybe the coils or the ecu has a protection circuit...
Mekanix,

I had one form member who has the same ski suggest that the oil level was too high. He stated that when he cked his level was above the full mark. He drained it down to just a 1/4 up the indent of the stick ( took out 3/4 of a quart) and his ski is no longer having this rough idle issue. Does this make any sense to you at all? I cked my oil and cold it is above the indent of the stick, looks to be alot in there.
 
Mekanix,

I had one form member who has the same ski suggest that the oil level was too high. He stated that when he cked his level was above the full mark. He drained it down to just a 1/4 up the indent of the stick ( took out 3/4 of a quart) and his ski is no longer having this rough idle issue. Does this make any sense to you at all?
Yes, if you have too much oil in there it will end up in the intake at some point and pool at the bottom.
Quite common but also a symptom of that is an oil pressure warning at higher rpms because the crank froths up the excess oil and trips the pressure sensor.

It's important to check the oil level properly though. Sitting there isn't accurate. Drive for a bit and them hold at 4000 rpm for a bit and then shut down and check.
Oil has to be equally distributed from the sump to the pto housing up to the top of the motor and back down. Otherwise you get either too full or too empty readings.

Often this stuff happens at oil change time which is why it's important to put in exactly as much as you take out.
 
+1 for thinking/hoping it might be too much oil.

Background:
I got 2 x GTI SE 170's last year (new from dealer), and when I was idling towards the trailer at the end of the season, 1 of the skis started to rough idle. Both skis had run for ~15 hours with no issues until then. I assumed it was plugs and didn't think anything else of it because I was winterizing them that day anyways.

When I removed the oil from the ski, almost 4L came out. That is probably 1L too much and it would have been done by the dealer when new. I also found oil on the combustion chamber side of the plugs (not in the plug tubes), which I also think must be from too much oil pressure and oil getting past the piston.

I think the proper technique of checking the oil level isn't being done at all dealers. If you don't rev it to 4000 before shutting it down, the stick seems to under read (just based off my experimenting, I am a no professional mechanic).

I put in the proper amount of oil and haven't had the issue (yet) this year. I am hoping I don't see it again. Will post back if it happens again.
 
Thank you BCBoy, kindly let us know if the problem should ever reappear. I have found it to be sporadic. However, only appearing at 1800 RPM slow speed five and below.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top