2011 Seadoo GTX 155 electrical issue, STOP/START, DESS

[juanhiggs11]

Hi everyone,

First of all I want to say that I am happy to have joined and be part of the community. I have a bit of a tricky issue. I have an intermittent electrical issue.
My GTX 155 has 43 hours on it so it hasnt been used much. I recently started having issues with what seems like the DESS and Start stop button.

There are a couple of different issues that occur at random times.

1. I attach my key briefly press the start button and nothing happens.
2. I attach the key and hold in the start button. The OTS comes on and the PWC cranks. As soon as I let go everythig dies.
3. I attach the key hold the start button and it just says reading key.

Its so intermittent and goes back and fourth through all these conditions. I have done the continuity check from the DESS to the steering harness connector and it all checked out, so I am not sure it can be the DESS post.

I can also hear the 30A relay clicking every time I hit the start button (It's almost liek the relay is not staying latched, i think the ECM is what keeps it latched. I have had a friend hold in the start button while I verify that there is power everywhere on the ignition bank of the fusebox. Also I have made sure the entire battery bus has power as well.

I am at a loss. Everything seemed to be working fine. I took out the PWC to the lake hit a wave really hard everything died and that where my problems started.
I have also replaced the battery (Previous one was 3 years old), cleaned out the fuse box, replaced all the fuses and relay due to some flux (white powder build up) onthe components, and finally cleaned the fuse box terminals and battery terminals. The problem persists.

Hoping to get some advice and where to even start.

Appreciate any feedback.

 

[Digdog]

Try replacing the relay , also the manual recommends cleaning the post and the key , sometimes dirt or whatever inside can cause a read problem. My key has to sit exactly centered or it does not work, cleaning mine does help.

 

[juanhiggs11]

Try replacing the relay , also the manual recommends cleaning the post and the key , sometimes dirt or whatever inside can cause a read problem. My key has to sit exactly centered or it does not work, cleaning mine does help.

Appreciate the reply, i havent tried cleaning the key and post because the continuity test checked out, but i bought some contact cleaner so will try that tomorrow. Also are you refering to the 5 pin relay in the fusebox? Because i already replaced that.

i will give some feedback tomorrow

 

[juanhiggs11]

Try replacing the relay , also the manual recommends cleaning the post and the key , sometimes dirt or whatever inside can cause a read problem. My key has to sit exactly centered or it does not work, cleaning mine does help.

I cleaned the Key and post and no luck.

I am starting to think the issue is more with the start stop button. The reason I say that is because even without the key the seadoo should power up every time I press the start button. I understand it will not start as it will just sit there and say "reading key".

I can hear the relay "clicking" when I press the start button but I need to hold it in in order for it to stay latched. Any ideas?

 

[juanhiggs11]

I cleaned the Key and post and no luck.

I am starting to think the issue is more with the start stop button. The reason I say that is because even without the key the seadoo should power up every time I press the start button. I understand it will not start as it will just sit there and say "reading key".

I can hear the relay "clicking" when I press the start button but I need to hold it in in order for it to stay latched. Any ideas?

Upon further investigation and reviewing the schematics It looks like the ECU might be the problem. The reason I think this is that the Start/Stop button is an input to the ECU and then there is an output that feeds the relay. I can hear the relay clicking but it does not stay latched. If I understand correctly its the ECU's responsibility to wake up the system for three minutes after pressing the start/stop button.

I am at a loss. I feel like I need to replace the ECU but that will be expensive. Feels like I am missing something simple.

 

[GrinchMonster2000]

before you replace the ECU (Not Cheap) i would get some type of diagnostics from Buds/CanDoo Pro done first could be the Dess key/Bad grounds also.

 

[juanhiggs11]

before you replace the ECU (Not Cheap) i would get some type of diagnostics from Buds/CanDoo Pro done first could be the Dess key/Bad grounds also.

Thanks for the reply. I have very little experience with the BUDS/CanDOO Pro Systems. Any recommendation on where to get software and how to work it? Maybe a tutorial video of some sort.

 

[MacSeaDoo]

Here is the thing. I am not saying it is not your ECU but you need to eliminate the everything else first because an ECU is going to cost $$ and it will suck if you buy one and still have the same problem.

If I were you I would focus on 3 things.

1.. The grounds for the ECU. The are circled as #1 here. I don't know where they are in your craft but the ECU is mounted on the engine and there are 2 plugs, A and B. The grounds are the 3 black wires coming from the A Plug. Follow them and see how the look. Better yet, take a photo and share it here as many here can comment on the condition. They need to be tight, dry, and clean.
2.. The DESS Post. Follow the diagram right to the ECU and check the condition. There are 3 wires. Black, Black\Yellow, and White\Grey. The White\Grey is the for the Code to the ECU. Once the code is sent and you start, it is no longer needed. The magnet in the key closes the circuit on the Black\Yellow to the Black. I would try jumping those wires and go for a run. If it doesn't die, you DESS post is bad.
3.. The Start Switch. The start switch is just 2 wires. When the machine is off, a closed circuit activates the starter. When it is running, a closed circuit kills the engine. I would check all of the wires to make sure they are not chaffed somewhere and causing a closed circuit under motion.

If you have a good multimeter, run a continuity check from each end to the plug on the ECU. I would do this while rattling each respective wiring harness to simulate movement.

Personally, I don't think there is anything in the Candoo or Buds that can help you here, short of pulling the wires from the harness and using the start/stop function of the software. If you don't have the proper harness clip tools, you will most likely break the tab in the harness.

Here is the wiring diagram for your machine:

 

[juanhiggs11]

@MacSeaDoo , greatly appreciate the detailed reply. I need a day or two to work through your possible options and I will provide feedback.

To me the most likely culprit still seems like a bad ground. I just cant find it lol.