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2007 RXT supercharger rebuild question.

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BigDfromTN

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Hello all, Newbie here but doing enough reading to be Very Dangerous!

I am going this weekend to pickup a pair of 2007 RXT's. I don't think the SC's have been rebuilt but will be checking that ASAP! My first chore will be to replace batteries and test fire both to verify running condition before investing in the kits and labor to rebuild the SC's. Once that is done off come the SC's for verification/rebuild.

My main questions right now are:
1. The needle bearings from what I can see require the use of "Isoflex" grease for install due to the fact that it melts away into the oil once running. Can I use Vaseline instead. Would it not melt away as well? I plan to change the Oil in these after a some run time this year.

2. What else do I need to be checking or looking for on these units?

I am buying them AS-IS from a trusted lifelong friend. He has sold his Lake House and getting rid of all the toys due to age/health issues. IF he had know of any issues before storing them in the garage last year he would have had them fixed. Price for the pair on a double trailer with 2 factory covers is $5200.00. I think I have room to do a little rebuild/maintenance on them.

I pulled the dipsticks and the oil looks brand new. I feel sure he had them serviced and winterized prior to storage.

Thanks in Advance,
Don
 
You should ALWAYS ride and drive if at all possible. The price is fair if there are no real issues. The site here does full rebuilds with all new updated SEADOO parts for under $500. I think irbid $440 but need to look to be sure.
 
^ Agree with him, try to atleast put 30 minutes of hard riding on them and see. Check compression, check the bottom of the ski, check for leaks inside the hull, etc. I would get the superchargers rebuild first, change the plugs and change the oil with filter but if you say the oil is new I wouldnt worry about it much.The price seems good but if they are not working poperly it can cost you some money. Best of luck
 
Thank you both for the replies!
I agree and normally would not have made this deal with out at least hearing them run. Hopefully I can do some of that this weekend if the rain will hold off. Live long "Friend" is actually my Uncle and he has always fixed right away any issues that he knows about. I feel confident (and very hopeful) these units will be fine. IF not, I will be reporting back and asking questions!!!
 
Chances are all will be good as you KNOW where they are coming from and he KNOWS who you are to him and the family.

Get the SC's done very soon. The ceramic issue is VERY real when it becomes a problem.
Once you get them done and if there are no issues, you will LOVE these skis. I have the 09 model and LOVE the ski.
 
You don't need isoflex on the rebuild, or vaseline for that matter. Most everyone just oils the needle bearings up.
 
$5200 is a good price, you will add about a grand with the SC rebuilds, which is still a good price. I paid $9999.00 for my 09 RXT New Untitled in 2010.
 
You don't need isoflex on the rebuild, or vaseline for that matter. Most everyone just oils the needle bearings up.

Thanks Sea Dood!
I did some more reading and someone commented they just put the gear on and use a small magnet to insert the needle bearings vs using the Isoflex to hold them in place. Think I will try it that way with some oil.
 
$5200 is a good price, you will add about a grand with the SC rebuilds, which is still a good price. I paid $9999.00 for my 09 RXT New Untitled in 2010.

Thanks Coastie, That's what I was thinking too. Between a couple of new batteries, SC kits, SC tool kit, etc etc. I am hoping a Grand will get me by. Im thinking at this point on doing the SC rebuilds myself. It don't appear to be rocket science. I have access to a press and own a torque wrench. Think I will do them one at a time... For safety sake. That way they both will not be down at the same time.
 
BTW that is the most insane price I have seen for those skis. I paid 6k last year on a 80 hour 2007 RXT.

Thanks,
Im not sure of the hours yet. I can check on one, but the other has what appears to be a bad dash guage unit. Will have to look into that at some point too.
 
Thanks Coastie, That's what I was thinking too. Between a couple of new batteries, SC kits, SC tool kit, etc etc. I am hoping a Grand will get me by. Im thinking at this point on doing the SC rebuilds myself. It don't appear to be rocket science. I have access to a press and own a torque wrench. Think I will do them one at a time... For safety sake. That way they both will not be down at the same time.

It isn't, and having two to do, it is probably worth it in your case. There are some JUNK tooks that are sold on eBay for the rebuild. You do NOT want them. If you are going to do it, buy the good ones.

One thing I would suggest is to get a parts price put together and compare that to what this site charges to do the full rebuild. You will want the upgraded kit which includes a shafts. You may not be all that far off what it costs for this site to do the rebuilds.
 
If you are that incline, you will need to buy candoo software and connection kit. Bought mine and it saved me a bunch of money on repair. It's worth the 400 bucks. I would also price it out like Castlejoe said, the cost of you doing them may not be that much cheaper.
 
If you are that incline, you will need to buy candoo software and connection kit. Bought mine and it saved me a bunch of money on repair. It's worth the 400 bucks. I would also price it out like Castlejoe said, the cost of you doing them may not be that much cheaper.

I need to look into the candoo... Will it allow me to program a dash unit if I need to put in a new one? OR is it just diagnostics?
 
UPDATE... Went and picked up the pair of RXTs. They are actually 2006 models. Took them home and charged batteries, they had been disconnected. Once charged they fired right up! Did not get to wet test yet. I did remove the sc intake hose and was not able to turn vanes by hand.
I plan to wet test next weekend, then pull SCs to see if rebuilt yet or not. If not I will bring them home with me and get the rebuild done.
Thanks to this forum and its members for a lot of great info!
 
My 06 challenger 215 didn't come with ceramic washers in 06.My end spring washers were about wore out.Cant be seen until taken apart.Just sayin cause old is old.and yah don't wantem breaking into motor.
 
You can do the rebuilds yourself if you are mechanically inclined but you do need isoflex grease if you want to do it easily. Sure, could be done without it but is a heck of a lot easier with it which I think is the trickiest part of the rebuild. The SBT kits come with it which I've had really good luck with but others will disagree since it's SBT. OEM kits are better but I haven't seen a rebuilt one (with the latest components) by either SBT or OEM fail in less than 100 hours yet and have done over 50 of each. If you're only doing your own scs, the ebay tools work okay(I think these are just the SBT tools) but the OEM and high end aftermarket are definitely better.

If they have the ceramic washers(some in 06 have them, some don't), you should rebuild sooner than later regardless of hours. If they don't, they should be rebuilt before the 100 hour mark.
 
You can do the rebuilds yourself if you are mechanically inclined but you do need isoflex grease if you want to do it easily. Sure, could be done without it but is a heck of a lot easier with it which I think is the trickiest part of the rebuild. The SBT kits come with it which I've had really good luck with but others will disagree since it's SBT. OEM kits are better but I haven't seen a rebuilt one (with the latest components) by either SBT or OEM fail in less than 100 hours yet and have done over 50 of each. If you're only doing your own scs, the ebay tools work okay(I think these are just the SBT tools) but the OEM and high end aftermarket are definitely better.

If they have the ceramic washers(some in 06 have them, some don't), you should rebuild sooner than later regardless of hours. If they don't, they should be rebuilt before the 100 hour mark.

Thanks for the feedback!

Not having the tool kit yet... What is the best way to remove that one bolt? What size box end wrench do I need? I'm thinking I could just get one of those and make a custom wrench if needed.

I went to SBT site and it don't show the isoflex included, I assume it is but just not shown? I have read the reason for using Isoflex is that it is mineral based and the oil will basically melt it into the oil with no damage. I was wondering if Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline) would do the same thing?

Don
 
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For the tool, you are better off grinding a ratchet gear wrench down, see attached thread...http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?40652-Need-TORX-tool&highlight=sc+tool+torx

The grease is included with the SBT kit in a little plastic container, just not shown. I'm an SBT dealer and can give decent discounts if you choose that route. You can email me directly at ohiopowersports@woh.rr.com for details.

I don't think petroleum jelly will melt away and blend in with the oil but haven't tried it and don't plan to. Isoflex is used in lots of places on SeaDoo engine building, it's good stuff.
 
UPDATE.....

Had a chance to look them over and check them out further this weekend. One engine was built in 11/2005, the other in 5/2006. Pulled both sc's and both have been rebuilt and have the metal washers! I was Proud to see that!

One other thing to note. BOTH of the machines had 8mm hex head bolts holding the SC in NOT the E8 torx that so many folks talk about.

I did not get to we test due to the river being too high to safely get to the ramp. I tried backing down the road toward the ramp and it was way to shallow to unload. Maybe next weekend I can get them wet and have some fun. I did get to hook them up to a water hose and test them out a bit. Cranked right up and sounded GREAT.

Thanks for all the info!
Don
 
FINALLY did that wet test this weekend.

These things are seriously QUICK! I also noticed they don't ride good until you are going around 35mph. Below that it would wander in small waves or ride just a little side ways on smooth water. Once over that 35 mark they smoothed out and ran straight as an arrow. Does that sound right? Or do I have some other issue?

Don
 
Glad you got them out, and yes, they are a quick machine. My fully stock RXT-X hits 72 MPH all day long.

The hull on this machine is a bit different than most other skis. It is specifically designed for speed and cutting. As such, it will ride a little lose at very low speeds from what others have said. I do not feel it in mine. Mine is a 2009 and I weigh 170. Any speed I have no "wollowing" at all.
 
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After doing more reading and looking at photos on here.... I must admit....

I have come to the conclusion that I looked at the wrong washers on my SC. I heard/read of the washers and saw some replacements online that appeared to be the 5 metal stack washers between the lock ring and the L ring with nut. NOW I realize it is the Friction washers that ride on each side of the gear that I should have looked at.

Guess I will be pulling both SC's again to confirm the proper FRICTION washers have been replaced and NOT the SPRING washers. Don't get me wrong. I am not blaming anyone for MY misunderstanding. Just posting to show my newness and hope it may help some one else.

I plan to get this redone this weekend and will report back.

If anyone has more photos they would like to share as to what the metal versus ceramic looks like might be helpful as well.

TIA
Don
 
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Ceramic are greyish and slightly green and also look kinda slimey and smooth.

Metal will be either gold or silver and the silver should have a rougher texture to them.
 
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