2007 RXT SC failure

[Old timer]

Hey guys, I've got a 2007 RXT that the SC failed and is missing one of the steel washers. I'm trying to do every option I can to locate the pieces without pulling the motoryet. I've been told usually when a steal washer fails that usually breaks into 2 to 3 chunks. I pulled the oil filter and there was some very fine shavings in a few of the finns. And drained the oil through a fine mesh screen oil come out absolutely clean no shavings At all. I pulled the front suction pump and there was some debris in the screen the gears and housing look OK to me? Now getting ready to pull the back side of the Engine to get at the second screen which entails disconnecting the driveshaft hoping the pieces are in that screen. If not anyone have any suggestions on anything else I can try to do before I have to pull the engine? I included some pics below any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,

 

[Coastiejoe]

Missing a metal chunk does change things,,,

What you are doing is the best you can do before pulling the engine.

Most end up pulling the engine..

 

[Old timer]

Yeah it changes things all right. question, When I am puling the rear oil pump and disconnecting the driveshaft will I just slide it back without having to take the prop off? just to disconnect the driveshaft from the engine. I have never had to disconnect the driveshaft before so I don't even know if I need to slide it back or not to get it off. I just ordered A Drive shaft removing tool.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Anytime you remove the engine, you really should use an alignment tool. If it is off even a tiny bit, it puts lateral load on the bearings and can cause early failure to the impeller bearings and wear ring. Also wears the Carbon Seal at an angle.

 

[Old timer]

Actually I'm not removing the engine as of yet. I am going to remove the rear oil pump assembly to get to the rear screen to see what I've caught there, which means I need to disconnect the drive shaft from the engine. And was wondering in doing that if I had to slide the driveshaft back away from the oil pump and if so does that mean I should to take the prop off first to slide it back? And if there's nothing in the screen then I think I'll probably take it in to have them pull the motor. Because I don't want to mess with trying to align that back up. That's definitely not my forte

 

[AircraftDoc]

Use a magnet. Magnet with the flexible reach. Magnets tied on a small rope and then fished around.

I wonder if SeaDoo ever thought of mounting in a earth magnet at both the oil screen and below the SC. And if the owners now could drill a hole in the block for a bolt to hold a Magnet. Sealing the bolt in during insulation.

 

[Old timer]

Yeah no kidding,that would make life easier
Thanks I will give it a shot.

 

[JoeZ]

To answer your other question, we can get the tools but you're likely better off at your local dealer for these. Only because they are special order which means to get the job done faster you can avoid shipping times with them.

Looks like you're on the right path....thanks for documenting with photos! :thumbsup:

 

[Old timer]

thanks Joe? I ordered one through the dealer today for 127 bucks. Question when removing the drive shaft do you have to take off the prop to slide back the shaft out of the engine or will it slide back far enough to separate from the Engine?

 

[Coastiejoe]

The pump does need to be pulled to remove the drive shaft. If your moving the engine you need to pull the shaft anyways so that you can use the alignment tool.

 

[Old timer]

Found most of the washer on the back end all gears and pumps look good. Feel pretty good about it. But the test will be when I run it. thanks for all your guys help.

 

[XP 787]

Inspect the timing chain closely for damage. This sometimes gets overlooked and they end up snapping.

 

[Old timer]

Hey guys, question I'm getting some conflicting answers from different techs on the gasket to the PTO magneto housing. One is telling me to use Loctite 5910 on the whole gasket surface both sides. And one telling me just to use Loctite 5910 on just the surface of the screen filter against the gasket with nothing on the rest of the gasket. And when I disassembled it only look like there was a sealant adhesive on the front edge of the screen filter. but the tube of the stuff that you have to buy is a 10 ounce tube of the 5910 so that makes me think why is it so big if you only use a little bit on that filter edge.