2006 Seadoo Sporster 215 4-Tec Low Power

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sawtooth2023

New Member
2006 Sporster 215 4-Tec Low Power

First time out this year... Starts and idles, runs slow ok but when throttle is increased...no power and rough. Assume it was limp mode, not sure. Then when restarted, one long tone and check engine light. Read code P0520, cleared history, replaced oil pressure switch. Restarted, no beep or check engine light but still no power.

Only use boat 1-2 hours per year. New battery, plugs fairly new, look good, oil on dipstick looks good, coolant was low in bottle so I put some in, back flushed the exhaust cooling, pulled exhaust and air intake hoses off to check for obstructions, pulled the jet pump off--looked fine, impeller turns. Changed fuel filters, not fun, dirty but not too terrible. Changed oil/filter, cold, just under 3 liters, looked ok.

Anything else anyone can think of? Is it possible the oil pressure switch code was pointing to oil pressure issue not just the switch? Assume if was in limp mode, that it clears itself, no procedure?

Can a clogged fuel filter cause this kind of lack of power. Wouldnt I see a check engine for fuel mixture? Maybe something in the pump I am not seeing. Just dawned on me that I didn't rev it up in neutral in the water. I'll try that too. Not optimistic. Any assistance would be appreciated.
 
A clogged fuel filter will definitely cause low power and roughness, and I don't think it would throw a code for it. If the fuel is from last year that could also be the problem. Revving in neutral in the water is going to be about the same as being forward or reverse, the pump is always under load so it's not like revving a car in neutral where there's no load. Revving out of the water is no load.
 
A clogged fuel filter will definitely cause low power and roughness, and I don't think it would throw a code for it. If the fuel is from last year that could also be the problem. Revving in neutral in the water is going to be about the same as being forward or reverse, the pump is always under load so it's not like revving a car in neutral where there's no load. Revving out of the water is no load.
Thank you for the reply. I went to run it again. Wouldn't Start :(( thinking I put the pump module together incorrectly. Anyway, will try again and replace the fuel at the same time. What does the spring in the module do...how do the parts work/move? I noticed there is an alternative pump part available, QFS...better?⁸
 
Thank you for the reply. I went to run it again. Wouldn't Start :(( thinking I put the pump module together incorrectly. Anyway, will try again and replace the fuel at the same time. What does the spring in the module do...how do the parts work/move? I noticed there is an alternative pump part available, QFS...better?⁸
Oh...the spring just puts pressure downward on the pump to hold the internal filter against the bottom of the module? No movement...
 
Oh...the spring just puts pressure downward on the pump to hold the internal filter against the bottom of the module? No movement...
Yup, it just holds it down against the bottom of the tank.

It can take a few seconds of cranking to purge the air from the line/injectors before it'll fire up. When you insert the lanyard the pump should run for 1-2 seconds. If it doesn't then something's wrong. When you hit the start button it'll run continuously while cranking.
 
Yup, it just holds it down against the bottom of the tank.

It can take a few seconds of cranking to purge the air from the line/injectors before it'll fire up. When you insert the lanyard the pump should run for 1-2 seconds. If it doesn't then something's wrong. When you hit the start button it'll run continuously while cranking.
Hmm...I definitely cranked it for many seconds. I will pop the cover off again to see if I can hear the pump while placing the key on. Another item...since changing the filters, when I place the key on it doesn't beep. I always hear a loud beep then the dials move/reset. Now no beep but I can hear a clicking from the engine compartment.
 
Hmm...I definitely cranked it for many seconds. I will pop the cover off again to see if I can hear the pump while placing the key on. Another item...since changing the filters, when I place the key on it doesn't beep. I always hear a loud beep then the dials move/reset. Now no beep but I can hear a clicking from the engine compartment.
Well, 2 beeps then repeats. But now no beeps. Maybe beeper is kaput? 🤔
 
I've had troubles with the lanyard, and it's a somewhat common problem, that installing it sometimes doesn't 'connect' or energize the system. On a few occasions I had to pull it and put it back on to make it work. But if you've tried several times without success, something's wrong.

#1, verify that the battery has a good charge and that the cables are clean & tight.

In the process of diagnosing and then replacing my fuel pump (it was locked up from sitting) I had a few times where the system would't energize, but I don't remember if I tracked it down to anything specific or if I just had to put the lanyard on a few times to get it to recognize it and energize. Mine is a special case tho, it's a 2007 that had never been used....'till today. It was a fairly short test run just to make sure it ran properly, hour meter still shows 0 😎
 
We ust got back from bringing our kid to college, first year :))

Where I left off, cranked but wouldn't start...

Removed fuel pump assembly, changed filters, drained fuel, and charging battery up. Before we left I opened the hatch under the seat and listened to the pump as I connected the key and then pressed the starter. Sounded like it was running for a couple of seconds. How do I, electrical and pressure, test the fuel pump when I have it out? Is there a kit with a tee and guage available? Also, reinstalling fuel pump in canister, is there just one way it fits in? Initially I didn't know how it was placed in but it seemed that the 3 black plastic struts on only fit in one orientation? Last, there was an object in the tank, 1-1.5 inch plastic, 3/4" in diameter, that holds 4 or 5 metal disks? Haven't tested it to see if they are magnets? Sound familiar or just some random thing that fell in? I will attach a pic.
 
I don't recognize that object. I was in the tank of my 2007 Challenger and it definitely didn't have anything like that in there.

I'm pretty sure the pump can only go together the right way. From recollection, I think the pump outlet fits onto a tube which allows it to slide as you press the pump down into the tank. If that seal is bad you'll loose pressure.

There are fuel pressure testers that will connect in-line after cutting your fuel hose. If you can match up the connector to an automotive one you could avoid cutting and splicing your hose. You might find something in the "Help" isle of a parts store. If you do have to cut it you'll need a metal hose barb fitting and two clamps to splice it back together.

My pump was seized and the filter was toast. After lots of searching I found this kit that had everything needed for a very low price. https://www.ebay.com/itm/293606481017
 
I tested the pump by wiring it up and placing it in a container of fuel. It runs but the gas didn't make it up to the tube I connected. Instead it escaped between the black hard plastic tube from the upper part of the housing and the aluminum fitting20230807_171403_resized.jpg20230807_171857_resized.jpg of the pump. Picture attached. I assume there is an o ring that got smooshed or lost. I ordered a Kemso kit for the 2006 sportster but am dubious of the fit. I don't see how the aluminum tube with the threads works with the factory set up. or what the black corrugated tube is for The quantum one has a picture that makes sense...attached. It shows an o-ring in the housing. Anyway, another clue...

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I just had one and the electric plug for the fuel pump had high resistance, cleaned it last year and tried two aftermarket fuel pumps, rectifier, new battery, would not run right, tried air regulator, fuel regulator to no avail, got a factory module and been running the tar out of it
 
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