2006 RTX taking in water and loss of RPM

[Karan Shah]

Hello all,
I am from India and have had my seadoo for 7 yrs.I got it out of monsoon parking after 3 yrs.Its got 48hrs on it.The following parts have been changed by me as the local Seadoo dealer is only for sales and doenst know any thing about even basic maintanance.I have bought the Candoo pro for my self for all the diagnostics that would be required.

• Fuel pump unit
• All the cooalnt hoses
• Coils
• Battery
• Plugs
• ECU…had to as the candoo showed up a fault

After all this and flushing the system i put it i the water.I have 2 problems...
1) RPM doesnt go past 7000 in water,but when a hit a wake and take air..the rpm goes to 8300 or something..I let off the throttle as i dont want to free rev the motor...what can i look for

2) water in entering the hull.Are there any seals that i can check for

The rpm loss was also exsisting 3 yrs back,but then because i was going to pack up the seadoo for a long time,i dint pursue the matter.

All and any help is appreciated as i am the only one india to even have a working seadoo.Any PWC that is gone into 2 monsoon,doenst work right as there are no qualified tech for marine equipments.

Thanks
Karan

 

[red2blue]

Hello all,
I am from India and have had my seadoo for 7 yrs.I got it out of monsoon parking after 3 yrs.Its got 48hrs on it.The following parts have been changed by me as the local Seadoo dealer is only for sales and doenst know any thing about even basic maintanance.I have bought the Candoo pro for my self for all the diagnostics that would be required.

• Fuel pump unit
• All the cooalnt hoses
• Coils
• Battery
• Plugs
• ECU…had to as the candoo showed up a fault

After all this and flushing the system i put it i the water.I have 2 problems...
1) RPM doesnt go past 7000 in water,but when a hit a wake and take air..the rpm goes to 8300 or something..I let off the throttle as i dont want to free rev the motor...what can i look for

2) water in entering the hull.Are there any seals that i can check for

The rpm loss was also exsisting 3 yrs back,but then because i was going to pack up the seadoo for a long time,i dint pursue the matter.

All and any help is appreciated as i am the only one india to even have a working seadoo.Any PWC that is gone into 2 monsoon,doenst work right as there are no qualified tech for marine equipments.

Thanks
Karan

Check the carbon seal. Also...you ever rebuild that sc?

 

[Karan Shah]

Thanks r2b,
I have never rebuilt the s/c,but i did try to turn is with my fingers(read it all over this forum) and it was really difficult and not free to turn.I have ordered the carbon seal kit,the impeller bearing kit along with the marine grease.I rather buy and replace everything that i can get my hands on in the driveline area.I even found a special tool that can help in getting the carbon seal out.

Do u suggest that rebuild the s/c?....also i check the max history on the Candoo pro and saw the boost pressure at 21psi,so i think that the s/c is doing its job.

While i am calling for these parts,should i get something else as well(i box will alot of parts)

Thanks for the help bud!

 

[red2blue]

You're way past due for an sc rebuild. Get an '08+ upgraded kit...and tool..or...I send mine to Jerry Gaddis. As for your rpms...check your air intake pre/post sc. Pay attention to your ic....my bet it has never been cleaned either. Normal boost presure for our ski is I believe around 8....so...unsure where you're readin 21psi...heh.

That rpm loss you initially experienced years ago...gradual or all of a sudden?

 

[Karan Shah]

How do i contact Jerry Gaddis? i will be getting to jetski from the water parking to my place and will check/clean the IC...Regarding the RPM loss, it was doing fine one day and then i dint use it for 2 months.When i got back on it,i realised that i was got getting full rpm.Then i changed the metallic washer to the ceramic ones and still dint get RPM.....there after for 3 yrs i dint get on the seadoo(i wish i had used it more often:banghead.....

 

[red2blue]

How do i contact Jerry Gaddis? i will be getting to jetski from the water parking to my place and will check/clean the IC...Regarding the RPM loss, it was doing fine one day and then i dint use it for 2 months.When i got back on it,i realised that i was got getting full rpm.Then i changed the metallic washer to the ceramic ones and still dint get RPM.....there after for 3 yrs i dint get on the seadoo(i wish i had used it more often:banghead.....

Who replaced your clutch washers?

 

[Karan Shah]

I replaced the the washers my self that i bought from RIVA.May be i dint torque the washers right when i installed them
I have pulled out the following parts and these are my observations

1) intercooler...looks dirty from the inside ,how should i clean it?
2)supercharger....very hard to turn by hand and the RIVA washers are in there intact.I am going to send the s/c to Jerry Gaddis for a rebuild.
3)Wear ring....dint look worn out as some of the pictures i have seen on the forums and websites.Is there any way to measure the gap from the blades to the ring
4)Cone....no moisture in it and it was full of grease,from 2006
5)injectors.....1 of them had a crack on the body and i will replace them anyways, but i also put them on my flow bench(bosch) the spray pattern and the flow of all the 3 injectors were good and equal

 

[red2blue]

Remove the ic...and with a simple hose and a gallon of white vinegar...funnel through the ic tubing let drain into a bucket...then simple cleaning exterior of tubing with the vinegar and light brush. rinse with clean fresh water. Dry exterior completely before re-installation. Some remove the screen....claim some gain...eh...not sure that that is worth it.

Use spark plug gap gauges to check clearance of prop to wear ring. .01-.015 is claimed to be acceptable. Mine with an ss ring measures .004-.006.

Are you using your finger while sc is still installed to turn it or are you using your hand when sc has been removed? As far as maybe the sc began slipping and maybe you didn't set the new slip correctly...quite possible.

Air leaks between the sc and tb are also possible.

 

[Karan Shah]

OK...i/c cleaned and ready to go in.

The gap is a little outside the clearance,going to get the SS wear ring.Should i get a SS impeller from RIVA while i am at it?

I used my finger when the s/c was on the engine and then when i pulled it out,its ok to turn by hand.( we modify quiet a few evos and supras.so i am playing with turbos all the time)......the cost for shipping to Jerry and back is not economical.Should i just get a stage 1 s/c from RIVA or some one else?

I am also going to order the engine mounts

I already have the power air filter,intake grate,OPAS cancelled,2 degree wedge...all bought from RIVA

No air leaks in any hose,for sure.I had check that first thing.

Let me know ur thoughts

 

[red2blue]

The reason most use an oem ring...is because it's sacrificial in the event of garbage ingestion. It's supposed to give and save your prop and pump bearings. Does that mean those things don't happen when using oem rings?...no. As for ss rings....I run in clean water...very little crap floating around...no weeds. I installed mine...7-8yrs ago. no probs. It's a personal preference thing.

Unless you're upping the air intake or new wheel that's increasing boost...the oem prop with minor tweeking will serve you well enough. When you do finally increase the air to the point that an oem prop with tweeking won't keep you off the limiter...then I'd consider upping it.

Going with an aftermarket wheel...or even just upgrading to an x-wheel....will bring you into an entirely new phase of pwc ownership. beware...it's a slippery slope.

What's wrong with your engine mounts? If you get them....you will want an alignment tool....possibly shims as well.

As for the Riva "power filter"...you can make a better one. Fizzle sells a better one as well.

Beware the "kit" thing.

Picture where you want to be...what parts will be required to get you there...which will allow incremental increases in performance as new parts are installed, one or just a couple at a time. This will allow you to install one at a time thereby reducing a lot of the guess work about which new addition did or didn't perform or function as advertised.

 

[Karan Shah]

Understood the wear ring...difference between the SS and plastic..Thank u

I am going to leave the OEM impeller and go with the SS ring.

I head some doos going down because for bad mounts that caused the misalingment and seal failure ,eventually letting water in.My RXT has on 47 hrs on it in 7-8 yrs,so i thought i should replace the mounts as i am doing the first big overhaul in 7 yrs.

I dont want to make go any faster,but i was reliablity.It will never be used in fresh water.Only seawater of the indian ocean.

So the final list of parts for reliabilty for the RXT is
Wear ring
Bilge Motor
Rebuilt s/c OR new oem one
Injectors...1 of them is cracked
Carbon Seal
Engine mounts(what do u suggest) with the alingment tool

Unfortunetly,we dont have a ramp to the sea to put and pull ot the jetski here in Mumbai city.I have to go through a local adventure club which has leased a part of the beach from the city council...(yes i have to beach the seadoo in and out every time) Hence i cant install 1 part each time and see how its working or not.I understand what u trying to tell me,i give the same advice to my customers for whom i make the supra and evos.I show them the gain on my dyno for them to understand where their money is making them power.

Do let me know ur thought.
Thanks

 

[red2blue]

Those who ride in salt must pay attention to cleaning the hull and motor after every use. I'm sure you knew that...just had to get that out there. Sacrificial anodes...in good shape...are a must.

Is your engine vented into your air intake? If not, you're gonna have to help your sc and ic with a squirt or two at idle. This will reduce the salt build up on the sc blades and ic.

As for the engine alignment tool. Something like this...
http://www.shopsbt.com/sea-2008-rxp/80-103B.html
After market mounts are $. I've seen the front mount alone going for upwards of $300 and a set of rear mounts going for more than $400. I'm sure the oem are cheaper. That's on you.

Have you considered a dolly/cart to get your ski outa the water? There's lots out there, something like this... http://www.aquacarts.com/pwc_dolly/pwc_beach_carts.htm

There's also slippery bunk material. All sorts of stuff to make moving these things easier.

I hate seeing skis on the sand. Bad for the hull....the prop...the wear ring...shallow water running...ugh.

 

[Karan Shah]

Is your engine vented into your air intake? If not, you're gonna have to help your sc and ic with a squirt or two at idle. This will reduce the salt build up on the sc blades and ic.

I dint understand that...what am i suppose to do? I did see a few specs of sand in the intake manifold after i took the cooler off.Where does it come from?

 

[red2blue]

I dint understand that...what am i suppose to do? I did see a few specs of sand in the intake manifold after i took the cooler off.Where does it come from?

A stock ski has an engine vent tube draining back into the oem air intake. Some with after market intakes either let that tube just blow into the hull or feed a blow-by can. A secondary effect of letting the motor vent back into the air intake is that a bit of oil will coat the sc and ic. In salty conditions...that bit of prevention is a must.

If your's isn't venting back into your Riva 3" air intake...I'd be squirting a bit of wd40 at idle in the end if the air intake. Don't rev high when you do it...just idle...and only a squirt or two (no filter I hope). It'll lightly coat the sc blades...sc housing...tb and ic.

You should see some of the nightmarish pics of salt encrusted sc's...nasty...makes you wonder how folks never complained about lack of performance...HA!

 

[Karan Shah]

red 2 blue...u have been of great help. I most appreciate the effort u have taken to reply to my posts.I am off to Turkey for a 3 week holiday so will will not be replying to the post(dint want u to feel that i just disappear)While i am gone, i expect the new s/c,injectors,carbon seal,carbon seal removal toll,engine mounts,alignment tool etc to reach my place.
When i am back i will rebuild my ski and let u know what the status of the water in hull & RPM issues.

Thanks once again!

 

[red2blue]

red 2 blue...u have been of great help. I most appreciate the effort u have taken to reply to my posts.I am off to Turkey for a 3 week holiday so will will not be replying to the post(dint want u to feel that i just disappear)While i am gone, i expect the new s/c,injectors,carbon seal,carbon seal removal toll,engine mounts,alignment tool etc to reach my place.
When i am back i will rebuild my ski and let u know what the status of the water in hull & RPM issues.

Thanks once again!

Any time. Hope all goes well.

I once got to watch Soviet subs cruise past a beach on the Bosphorus.