2005 GTX Ltd Water in Engine Compartment

[rmpacker]

Just bought a 05 GTX Ltd. I have another one so I know how it is supposed to run. It did not seem to run as quickly as my other one with lower top end. The new one began to cavitate when accelerating out of the hole a few minutes into the ride. Continued to ride for a couple hours with similar issues however did not think it was a big deal. At the end of the day, when I pulled the ski a considerable amount of water was coming out of the grates so I opened up the bilge plugs and even more came out. Now I am concerned.

I pulled the seats and notice water almost half way up the engine compartment, Now I am very concerned. Engine still ran fine, however I am wondering what in the world just happened.

Anyone have ideas on what the issue is? Is the cavitation related to the water in the engine compartment?

 

[Coastiejoe]

I doubt it was cavitation more so than the lack of ability for the ski to overcome the HUNDREDS of extra pounds of water.

It could have been cavitation if the carbon seal failed and was sucking air from the hull. However, once that much water got into the hull it would no longer suck air through the seal.

I would put the drain plugs in, leave it in the trailer, remove the seat, back it down the ramp and fire it up. Look for water coming in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[rmpacker]

OK, so I just checked my oil. Content was milky, which I will conclude water got into the engine. While I am going through the ski and troubleshooting, anything else I should be checking?

If it is indeed just the carbon seal that needs to be replaced, is it something that needs to be done by the dealer or simple enough I can do it? What should be the cost for the dealer to do it?

 

[Michael211_2000]

A "considerable amount of water was coming out of the grates".... what grates are you talking about? The intake grate under the stern? If that's what you meant, I'd keep it on the trailer put the bilge plugs back in and fill it back up about 1/2 way with water (engine OFF!) and see if water starts coming out of the jet pump intake area again, if it does then you have yourself a very bad carbon seal around the drive shaft you'll want to change the seal and the rubber boot that holds the seal as 1 or both are leaking badly!

And invest in an electric automatic bilge pump, wired directly to the battery so it's in auto mode 100% of the time... you came close to sinking because you didn't know your hull was filling with water. With an automatic electric bilge pump you'll KNOW something's wrong if it starts dumping water over the side (you have to install a thru-hull, usually under the rear grab handle) and it'll buy you more time to get the craft back on a trailer or lift. People have sunk their watercraft because of things as simple as forgetting to put the bilge plugs in before launching and not realizing it till the watercraft had filled to the point where the engine sucks water in and hydrolocks damaging it (lack of a $60 electric automatic bilge pump can cost you thousands in engine repairs when you hydrolock the engine!). The OEM water extraction system is low flow and only works when the engine is running, if your hull is full of water starting the engine can ingest water hydrolocking and damaging it! An auto electric bilge pump, 500+ gph, is great peace of mind!

- Michael

 

[Michael211_2000]

If you already got water in the engine, then your intake manifold would be full of water it holds about 2 quarts worth... you'll have to unplug the wiring harnasses unbolt and remove it to drain it of the water, there's no where for that water to go except into the engine. :-(

Once that water is out, you'll want to do a full oil change (including the oil filter)... suck every bit you can out (using the proper technique described in numerous threads in this forum you can get at least 4 quarts out of the engine; measure how much you get out).

I'd do the oil change immediately, you don't need water sitting in the engine. Then fill the hull with water on the trailer and verify water is coming out of the jet pump intake grate, then go from there.

Yes you can change the carbon seal and that rubber boot that holds it tight yourself, it only takes a few tools and a nice shade tree to pull the pump out and then unclip the driveshaft and pull it out then unclamp the rubber boot that holds the carbon seal and replace it. Note: There is a C clip on the driveshaft, you have to pull the rubber boot back (towards the stern) to expose it and then push it off the shaft with a screwdriver before you can remove the driveshaft out the back of the hull! Once you get that done, putting it back together is a walk in the park! Make sure the new rubber boot pushes the new carbon seal up tight against the stainless steel flange on your driveshaft, it should be so tight as to take serious effort to push the seal back by hand.

- Michael