2003 Sportster le No Beeps

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Kk0271

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Currently I can not find a fix as to why my SeaDoo is not recognizing my lanyard no beeps. checked all fuses and new battery. it last ran a week ago without a problem.
any help would be appreciated.
 
Currently I can not find a fix as to why my SeaDoo is not recognizing my lanyard no beeps. checked all fuses and new battery. it last ran a week ago without a problem.
any help would be appreciated.

Check the DESS post with a meter to see if both magnetic reed switches are opening and closing with the key off/on the post
 
Replaced the DESS post. Checked all wires for corrosion they all look like new cleaned the and resealed the with dielectric grease. Checked neutral safety switch looks good. Replaced main ground wires. All fuses are good. Crossed sylonoid motor turns over. Replaced sylonoid with a new one. Only corrosion/ rust I can see is on the ignition coils looks like the have seen some salt very rusty. I am wondering if the coils getting a bad ground could be my problem? As 2 ground wires run off of them and seem to feed back to the brain.
 
I would start by cleaning the Post on the safety lanyard. It is beeping and saying it isn't connecting to the Mpem, (Multi Purpose Electronic Module) It needs to beep 2 times to let you know it is ready to start. Clean the post and cap with soapy water. Don't use any grease of lubricant on it as it needs a clean connection to make contact. Connect the lanyard to see if it is making a connection. 2 beeps and it's ready to fire up.

Engine start/stop switch verification;
Disconnect the Yellow/Red wire of the start/stop switch. Using an ohmmeter, connect test probes to the Yellow/Red wire and to ground. Measure resistance, it must be an open circuit (switch is normally open). Depress and hold switch, the ohmmeter should read close to “0” ohm.

Safety Lanyard Switch Verification;
If 2 short beeps are not heard when installing the safety lanyard, disconnect the switch wires.
Safety lanyard removed;
connect the test probes to switch Black and Black/Yellow wires. It’s an open circuit, there should be no continuity.
Connect one test probe to the White/Gray wire and the other test probe to the switch terminal. Measure resistance, it should be “0” ohm. Connect one test probe to the Black wire and the other test probe to the switch ring. Measure resistance, it must be close to “0” ohm.
Safety lanyard on switch; connect the probes to switch Black and Black /Yellow wires. Measure resistance, it must be “0” ohm.
Timer Verification;
The timer is integrated into the MPEM. Always confirm that the fuses are in good condition. To confirm operation of timer, remove the safety lanyard from switch. After 5 seconds delay, depress start/stop button once. The timer should stay on for 33 seconds (for example, the gauge(s) will be activated) and than turn off.
Here is all the info on the DESS codes. It is possiable that you are getting a mixed code.
DESS Codes/ Beeps
2 Short beeps …the engine is ready to start
1 Long beep …no communication to MPEM
4 Short beeps… (on Jet Boats) Shifter is in gear
8 Short beeps…defective MPEM
1 Continual beep…engine over heating


Advanced Self- Diagnostic Mode


By pushing the start/stop button 5 times, you’re putting the DESS in advanced diagnostics. When you have successfully done this, you'll hear 1 short, 1 long beep then, put on the lanyard cap. The engines should start if everything is ok.

2 Short beeps means MPEM can’t read the lanyard cap or it has bad magnet. It could be a bad wire connection at the Lanyard switch.
2 Long beeps means wrong lanyard or bad connection of DESS connection
3 beeps signal the wiring harness of the DESS switch are grounded, or a short circuit somewhere.

You may have a bad connection in your wiring harness, from corrosion. Go through your electrical systems connectors and check for corrosion. Clean them with some contact cleaner, then die-electric grease.

To listen to the codes again start from the beginning.


I hope this helps.
Keep us posted on your progress.

Karl
 
Replaced the DESS post. Checked all wires for corrosion they all look like new cleaned the and resealed the with dielectric grease. Checked neutral safety switch looks good. Replaced main ground wires. All fuses are good. Crossed sylonoid motor turns over. Replaced sylonoid with a new one. Only corrosion/ rust I can see is on the ignition coils looks like the have seen some salt very rusty. I am wondering if the coils getting a bad ground could be my problem? As 2 ground wires run off of them and seem to feed back to the brain.

I had this problem on my Sea doo jet skis. Turned out the BACKSIDE of the connector the purple wire which fed power to the MPEM (this was connector at the MPEM) was correded green and broken. It took me days to find. Finally a continuity check from the DESS wire to MPEM confirmed a breakage. I could also jump the start solenoid and get it to crank, and i also replaced the relay...lol. It would be interesting if you had corrosion on the same wire on the back of the connector
 
I had this problem on my Sea doo jet skis. Turned out the BACKSIDE of the connector the purple wire which fed power to the MPEM (this was connector at the MPEM) was correded green and broken. It took me days to find. Finally a continuity check from the DESS wire to MPEM confirmed a breakage. I could also jump the start solenoid and get it to crank, and i also replaced the relay...lol. It would be interesting if you had corrosion on the same wire on the back of the connector
I have no corrosion on any of the connections. I should check continuity between the DESS and MPEM any advise on that?
 
I have no corrosion on any of the connections. I should check continuity between the DESS and MPEM any advise on that?

Just checking, you pulled the connector apart in the back and disassembled it (depinned the DESS signal wire)? Mine is purple. If you want to wait on this step i would set your meter to read continuity where it beeps, if it doesnt have this function you can go by OHMs. You may need a long extension wire to reach from each DESS wire harness to the MPEM. There are wiring diagrams out there so you know which pinns to check at the MPEM. Or you can prob even skip this part and just go one by one and make sure you have continuity on the number of wires you are checking.

For instance;
Unplug DESS post harness and MPEM connector, set meter to continuity check, clip one meter leed to harness at the DESS the other leed probe all pins at MPEM, one should beep. Repeat for all wires, based on the number of wires (say 4) you should get 4 beeps. This would confirm all wires are in tact and rule out corrosion behind the plug or the need to de-pin. Like is said, my connectors looked great, after i de-pinned the purple signal wire at the MPEM connector it was corroded and not making contact. This is hidden by the round rubber gasket that seals the wire. The corrosion was between the gasket and front part of the connector. I may even be able to find my forum with the picture. Standby
 
This is how i did it with my Sea doo XP DI. I had a 4 wire DESS, pulled the rubber gasket and the pin was corroded. Its on the bench and you can see the green. Sorry post above said purple wire, it was black with purple stripe on my machine.

2003 xp-di - Page 3
 
Pick of MPEM harness on my XP DI
 

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Update I cannot find any corroded terminals in this machine. Continuity Seems good. New dess post. New battery. New ignition coils. New ground wires. Power to all fuses. I have to be missing something. Good power to blower and bilge pump and navagation lights. No power to gages.
 
Dam, i am stumped without being there in front of it. The DESS was brand new and the correct one for the machine? What happens if you put a magnet to the top to pull the reed switchs closed? Does the machine power up but not allow it to crank? There is no other kill switch in the loop?
 
So after going through all the possibilities I replaced the MPEM and sure enough everything is working fine again.
 
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