2002 SeaDoo GTX Di

[VitaliyK97]

I’m thinking to redo cylinder head rings, then see what’s going on.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

That's all the more reason to question it's calibration.

 

[VitaliyK97]

Scratch out everything I wrote above, I bought the tester from harbor freights, and after testing two different connectors, I got two different readings, also the readings on each cylinder were completely identical and I think that’s impossible for it to be that way. I’m going back with TPS sensors, I’ll buy new ones and give that a go.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

The compression gauges that have the incorrect schraeder valve configuration have all come from Harbor Freight, as far as I know. I thought they fixed this problem by now. If the Schraeder valve is in the gauge end, it's incorrect! The schraeder valve looks like a valve that's inside a tire stem, this one for the gauge is special though, not the exact same valve but looks similar.

 

[VitaliyK97]

Yep it’s one of those...

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

That explains it, really didn't think they still sold those defective gauges still.

 

[VitaliyK97]

I’ve ordered tps sensors and as soon as I change them I’ll write an update to what’s happening, thanks everyone for participating!

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Okay, that could very well be the problem!

You can test the TPS using an voltmeter set on Ohms scale if you have the desire. My preferred meter for testing a TPS is an analog type but a digital meter can work as well if you're patient or if the TPS is completely bad, it will show up very well.

 

[VitaliyK97]

Any idea if I need to program the new tps sensor or how to properly install them ? I’ve read there’s some resetting to do ?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yes, there's a correct way to do it. If you don't have a service manual for this ski then you should locate one right away, they're well written and the digital version is worth many times it's weight in gold!

It'll save you a lot of time and headaches for sure.

 

[VitaliyK97]

 

[VitaliyK97]

So I’ve read thru and it seems all that has to be done is, replace sensors and perform a reset ( I think it says that in the closed adjustment ) anyone else see anything I should look for ?

 

[Rossterman]

I always verify compression using at least two different brand of gauges to ensure accuracy. I’ve jad a few occasions where one didn’t read correctly the first time and was OK the next time. Having two separately verify the same reading ensures you are working with accurate info. I believe auto zone rents them for free.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I believe it has to be reset using BUDS, others have taken their ski to a shop to have it done for them as they waited. I don't have a DI myself and I don't even work on jet skis as a rule (bilge is too small for me so I stay away, lol). I don't know if there are any shortcuts instead of using BUDS. None I'm aware of.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I always verify compression using at least two different brand of gauges to ensure accuracy. I’ve jad a few occasions where one didn’t read correctly the first time and was OK the next time. Having two separately verify the same reading ensures you are working with accurate info. I believe auto zone rents them for free.

^This, exactly!

 

[nbirtley]

Have you checked the rectifier as jimmyluke suggested? My 2003 GTX-DI was having similar issues. I checked the voltage across the battery with the engine running and it was getting 11 volts. I replaced the rectifier and now it gets 13.4 volts and all the other problems are gone.

 

[VitaliyK97]

Here’s an update to what’s happening....
So I took jetski to get checked by a mechanic, he connected reader to it, and 2 things were found wrong. 1) Mag side TPS sensor doesn’t work ( I installed a new one ) and compression was low on both cylinders. I’ve orderes new pistons, rings, gaskets bearing, etc, so I will rebuild all that, and give an update.... this will be my first time ever working on something like this, but you gotta start somewhere

 

[VitaliyK97]

Also new rectifier is installed and all of that is working properly.

 

[mikidymac]

Make sure you have the cylinders bored by an experienced shop and trim the RAVE valves.

How many hours on the engine? Might be time for a new crank also.

 

[VitaliyK97]

Hey everyone, got a problem I’ve ran into, so I’m taking my engine out, but I’m having very hard time separating the engine and drive shaft, any ideas on what to do ? Couldn’t find a video online on how it’s done either...

 

[jimmyluke]

Have you removed the c-clip from under the support ring in the carbon ring sealing area ?

 

[mikidymac]

You have to remove the c-clip under the stainless hat on the driveshaft first. Then the pump and finally the rear metal clamp on the PTo flywheel boot. Remove the driveshaft out the back of the ski.

 

[VitaliyK97]

So I have to completely take out the propeller from the back ? Undo all the bolts and all that stuff ?

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, you can't get the driveshaft out without pulling the pump.

 

[jimmyluke]

Before pulling the pump, remove the c-clip from the driveshaft under the stainless support ring “ top hat“. It will make life easier to do it now rather than after the pump is off. If you would like I could make a real short video of how to remove the c-clip.