Hey all, so I bought a jets knowing it would need work, a top end rebuild. I went to go pick it up, and he already had the jugs and head off of it and so im considering rebuilding fully or at least taking a part and cleaning the inside of the engine. I haven't found any good videos on cleaning the inside of the engine but Im sure it can't be that much harder, but also worried if I find more damage because it was ran for a little with a blown top end. Just want an opinion on if it would be easier to just send it back and order a rebuilt 951 and send back my core, or to go ahead and clean and order a new top end for it? I also have a 951 Carb that I could through if any knows a company that would be willing to make a deal on rebuild if I sent back two cores.
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2002 Seadoo GTX DI 951 Inconsistent Issues after rebuild
- Thread starter Gareit13
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The 951 is highly stressed and used cranks typically don't survive a now top end. Not sure how you "run on a blown top end" but, yes, you are do for a new crank.
Nobody will make a "deal" for two cores but might give you a credit for the second one. The only place that is recommended for a send you a new engine and you get a core back would be SBT or WSM. IF you want to rebuild your exact engine you should do it yourself as SES and FullBore have a poor return timeframe reputation here.
Nobody will make a "deal" for two cores but might give you a credit for the second one. The only place that is recommended for a send you a new engine and you get a core back would be SBT or WSM. IF you want to rebuild your exact engine you should do it yourself as SES and FullBore have a poor return timeframe reputation here.
Uncle_Tone
Member
Hey, I agree with miki on the DIY. I have an 01 RXDI and an 01 GTX DI, after getting the RX rebuilt last year I am going to do the GTX myself after this upcoming season. Theres a bunch of videos online about how to rebuild, they are pretty good. I am not sure where you are located but I used PWC Engine in Manorville, NY on Long Island to rebuild my RX last year. Mike is a good guy and very quick which I loved most especially because the rebuild was right smack in the middle of the summer. 2 weeks later I had a new engine. He used to work directly with SBT but switch over to WSM because of the quality difference. I would give him a shout if that works for you. Good Luck!!!
So I got the engine installed and without through SES. I had it out for about 6 hours and the exhaust gasket broke so I got a tow back in. Weird thing is even after I fixed the gasket I took it back out and and ran fine for a few mins but then started getting trouble starting and blowing black smoke. I towed it back in again. I got good compression still 135 in both cylinders. Im thinking maybe something with the oil pump? Im changing the oil lines now so that way I can visually see im getting oil. When I first took it out it was running on Premixed gas and we filled up about an hour or two before heading in. Does this line up with possibly a bad oil pump?
I finally got the engine back together and got the new hoses on. I went to check the rave valves to make sure I put them on them and they were correct. I can see oil flowing through the three oil lines. Its definitely got a rattle and shake to it that it didn't have previously when I first started it for the first time. Every time I give it throttle it dies out. Takes multiple times to even start it. Is there something I should check? The engine is under warranty thankfully, but I just would rather fix what I can first!
WaarrEagle
Active Member
If you ran premix, imagine that clogged your fuel injectors. Send them to fuelinjectorman.com for cleaning/calibration. Might as well send the air injectors too.
WaarrEagle
Active Member
Odd. Basic DI troubleshooting should start with fuel pressure. Should be 27psi when you insert the key, then 107 when running. If that checks out, verify compression. If those are all good, I would be looking back at the fuel and air injectors.
When I removed the Rave valves tons of smoke came out for a few minutes? Possibly a clogged exhaust making it run rougher? I just don't know what happened to most of the exhaust gasket when it broke, don't know if it went inside the engine or went into the exhaust. Ill start looking into trouble shooting the gas pressure and fuel filter!
Hey guys, I know its been a while but started working on the ski again. So I was doing some trouble shooting and I pulled off the black fuel rail and left the injectors in the cylinder. And tried to see If I was getting fuel to both sides and only the PTO side was shooting fuel. Im wondering if that oil clogged up one side of it. Is there any way to clean the black fuel rail?
Put it all back together and whipped out the CANDOO, at first I got the active code for P0201 which is MAG fuel injector circuit failure. I cleared the code and could not get it to replicate. I started trying to test them on the Activate page, and could not activate fuel or ignition coil on the Mag, any tips to trouble shoot them? I was thinking just swap the fuel injector that are on top of the fuel rail.
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WaarrEagle
Active Member
You should be able to hear both when you manually activate. If not, swap front to back and see what happens. If the problem moves, its the injector or coil. If not, its the wiring and you can focus there.
Thats what I was thinking! I will let you know how it goes! I definitely do not think the engines trashed or anything, and don't think the exhaust got plugged up. I just saw somewhere though that when idling only one cylinder is getting gas so I didn't know if anyone has any ideas on that!
So changed the whole fuel rail from a good running ski and I cannot activate or anything. Also now I do not get the two beeps and the fuel pump runs every time I press start. Im also getting a RAVE fault and Starter Solenoid fault now which weren't even showing before. This is so frustrating those two situations have nothing to do with each other. My next step is to swap the MPEM, I do have another one.
Well finally got it turn over took multiple times for it to even start and when it did it still is very rough idle and bogs down and shuts off when ever any amount of throttle is applied to it. I do not believe it is the injectors at all because I swapped the fuel rail with my rxdi and it is doing the same thing as before so I think they can be taken off the list. When trying to do the activate on the ignition coil should I be getting a loud popping from the ignition coil? I could only get one to do it.
WaarrEagle
Active Member
Both of my DI coils can be heard when activated. Swap the coils and see what happens then.
Jhperkes3673
New Member
I don't know about your specific ski, but for both of mine I use the Sea-Doo manuals. They are loaded with tons of information and pictures about the skis. This is the website I downloaded mine from SeaDoo Manuals - FREE PDF Download!
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