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2002 gtx di missing

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I know a lot of members here recently have had good success running a 50/50 mix of fuel and toluene through the OEM pump on the bench and restoring full pressure. Make sure you change both filters while you are at it.
 
What is toluene and where can you get it? Yes I did put new filters on the pump when I installed the new pump.
Thanks. JIM.
 
It is a solvent like Acetone. It sounds like most paint departments have it although it has been banned here in stupid California.
 
So I installed the new in-line fuel filter the old one did not seem blocked so I did not have much confidence in it to solve the pressure problem. I got 24 psi when installing the lanyard 97 psi at idle and 102 PSI slightly revved. I bypassed the regulator and put in a valve in my test gauge and kept closing the valve in small increments after each time I put on the lanyard. The maximum that I could get out of it was 90 psi basically deadheading the pump. Does that even make sense? To only have 90 psi deadheading the pump and 102 PSI when running?
 
I think this is the summer of the GTX DI problems. On mine the rave valves are staying opened. It sounds like yours might not be opening.

Also your engine should go to 6850 rpms or about there. Mine does 50mph. Also, make sure you have your hoses going to the correct position on the rave solenoid.

Finally, check the coils and plug wires. Have the ski in a dark place and spray down the plug wires with a spray bottle of water and see if you have an arc. Also try at idle and higher rpms.
 
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So I installed the new in-line fuel filter the old one did not seem blocked so I did not have much confidence in it to solve the pressure problem. I got 24 psi when installing the lanyard 97 psi at idle and 102 PSI slightly revved. I bypassed the regulator and put in a valve in my test gauge and kept closing the valve in small increments after each time I put on the lanyard. The maximum that I could get out of it was 90 psi basically deadheading the pump. Does that even make sense? To only have 90 psi deadheading the pump and 102 PSI when running?

You are close. Do you still have the aftermarket fuel pump installed?
Considering slight differences between gauges you are close to having the correct fuel/air pressure.
I have 4 DI's and a shelf full of aftermarket fuel pumps that didn't work. They were close, but didn't quite get there.
I suggest you purchase a used fuel pump from Westside Powersports. Nick Carins is a member here and does people right. (There is also eBay)
Change the internal filters (airtex fs220 & fs242) and try it. You should be getting a snappy throttle response and 6850/6900rpms at wot.
Every 2002 and later DI that I have been around will have a slight miss (hardly noticeable) from 5500 to 5900 rpms. At 6000rpms smooths out. Most people never notice it, but I do since I am listening for it.
 
A curious question, I'm assuming that the weight of the rider would effect the speed and rpm's? Before my GTX-DI decided to crap out on me it would reach 6300 - 6400 rpm's running top speed of 47 mph and I'm not a normal sized man.
 
It shouldn't that much unless it is extremely overloaded. It should be at least 55 mph and 6,900 rpm.
 
Yes jhjesse as of my last post I had the aftermarket (high flow model hfp-342di)fuel pump in which when I put it in with only two hours running time ago it would idle at 104 psi but now it idles at 95 psi and slightly revved up 100 psi. And about 90 psi when I basically deadhead the pump. So I put in my OEM pump and tested it. it has 24 psi installing the lanyard and idles at 104 psi. And i get over 130 psi (testing the pump only )when I install a micro adjust valve after my test gauge and tap in to the return line to the tank while hooking up the lanyard. So I took the OEM pump out and currently have it running(cleaning itself) in the 50-50 solution of gas/toluene. I don't expect to get any more pressure out of it just doing it as a preventive maintenance thing. so I guess the 104 psi running pressure will have to do for now. I want to get it on the water tomorrow and hopefully don't have any fuel pressure issues but I need to try out my new wearing and my new OSD rectifier which both have zero hours on them. What running fuel pressure did you have on your pumps that didn't quite work up to snuff?
Thanks again Jim
 
Hope it works out for you. With 130psi at the pump the fuel pressure regulator can now do its job.

Hoping for the best...
 
Well I put the oem pump back in after about two hours running in the toluene/gas solution and got about 105-106 PSI at idle then revved it some- got at one point 107 psi and then after idling for a bit the gauge went erratic bouncing from about 40 psi to maybe 120 PSI. I then held the throttle steady at slightly above idle and the pressure stayed steady between 105 and 106 PSI. When I went back to idle the gauge got erratic again. Unfortunately I did not have another gauge to check it against. But I will be ordering A liquid filled gauge soon. I feel pretty good about it though. Lord willing I will water test it tomorrow.
Thanks Jim.
 
Well I took the ski out on the water today and it ran pretty good. When I finally hit smooth water I opened it up and was able to get about 6600 RPM at roughly 42 mph so I did not gain much with the wearing. But at least the OEM fuel pump install worked OK .after running for about 20 minutes I noticed that the maintenance light came on and also on the LED gauge displayed "maintenance". I noticed that below about 4300 rpm's the lights went out but when I got above 43 -4400 rpm's the red maintenance light and "maintenance" Display came back on.no alarm sounded. So I kept it under 4000 RPMs back to the dock trailered it and I checked The temperature of the engine and exhaust and none of them were hot -I could easily hold my hands on them for an extended period of time. Any ideas? Or is this something I would need a scan tool for? Thanks Jim
 
I don't know if this is relevant or not but when I brought it home and was flushing it I noticed more water coming out of the hole that is directly below the steering cable than was coming out the P-hole on the side
 
Thinking back on this- the ski sat about 20 minutes after I ran it until I was able to trailer it and then feel the engine but it did not feel hot at all
 
When you flush the ski the water runs in the reverse direction than when operating, hence the flush.
When the maintenance light flashed did you try to reset with the reset button on the handlebar? Routine maintenance light can be reset without throwing a code. If it will not reset, it's throwing a code and needs to be read.
You really need to find someone with a candoo pro or buds system to read the codes and determine what is actually malfunctioning before throwing money at temp sensor, knock sensor etc.
You should be turning 6900rpms at about 50-55mph. I'm just wondering if your TPS is out of range not allowing you ski to reach wot. A candoo pro or buds can diagnose that.

Good news about the pump, now just need to figure out this last problem.
 
I did not know that you could reset anything. If you're referring to the "set" button below the "mode" button I was playing around with both of them while I was riding just trying to see what they do. Is it possible I accidentally set something to go into maintenance alert if I went over a certain RPM? If I were to reset the maintenance light do I have to do it while the light is on ?
 
Also if I were to get up to 6900 rpm's from my 6600 rpm's how many miles per hour do you think I would actually gain?
 
Yes while the light is on, but that will only reset if it is due for routine maintenance.
 
Also if I were to get up to 6900 rpm's from my 6600 rpm's how many miles per hour do you think I would actually gain?

54-55mph.
6000rpms on my skis and I am cruzing 40-45mph on the speedo...I think. I really don't watch it that much.
 
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I just checked the hours on my ski and it is 59.6 hours. I am hopeful that it was an alarm for the 60 hour service. I can't wait to get out on the water and try the reset thing tomorrow- fingers crossed!!
 
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