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2002 GTX DI electrical madness

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JCT

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Long post, sorry it’s a DI…

New problem. Finally got the 2002 GTX DI working last fall, just a little slow at 40 mph indicated and 6540 rpm.

Had the mechanic winterize the DI last year as I didn’t have time. This spring cleaned and rebuilt raves with OSD kit. Put it in water and Starter would not run, no solenoid click nothing. Plug in DESS and get two loud beeps, Electric pumps make noise. Push starter button and fuel pump whirs but no starter. Starter DID work when solenoid jumped. Replaced solenoid with known good one, no change. Added battery pack jumper (12v sla only, no car or alternator) no change.

Tested low amp solenoid leads:
Starter Button not pressed
Black=+12v
Yellow with stripe= ground
Starter button pressed no change.

removed rear electrical box checked for shorts, small amount of water no wiring issues.
Checked electrical plug connections, ok.

rectifier is new OSD heavy duty 4 stroke one .
All fuses in mpem and rear box checked and ok.

so now the kicker, I tried to see if it would start if I jumped the solenoid with the spark plugs in. Starter went dead after three cranks. Now no sparks at all when jumping the new good solenoid AND the maintenance light finally turned on.

AFAICT I have two problems:

1) There is some type of electrical fault with energizing the solenoid.
2) I fried the starter somehow trying to start it.

Any help with the electrical?
Fried MPEM?
One of those haunted electrical things that only a NEW battery can fix?
 
You gotta fix the starter first. It is likely not bad because you jumped it. It might just be bad. You can pull the stater pretty easy by just removing the air box and the throttle bodies.

With the plugs out, how easy does the motor turn by hand. You're gonna have to break out the wiring diagram and check power. Check your fuses.
 
I'm with "e",,,pull the plugs,,,will the crank rotate easily,,if not,,,then the motor or the pump is locked up (rare).,,usually the motor,(crank/piston).
 
Starter spun engine easily with plugs out before starter quit.
I also do not think starter locking up had anything to do with jump, probably coincidental.
I have a freshly rebuilt OEM starter I can throw into it.
thank you for the heads up on how to put in the new starter.

Electrics still puzzle me though, bought a new battery and will try that.
Also looking into Candoo purchase but will make separate post for that.
I will let you know what I find out.
 
With the plugs out, a strong starter, and a healthy strong battery,,,you should be able to spin the starter for a good 8 seconds,,,then an 8 second rest...
 
Pulled starter yesterday, was frozen.
Ordered rebuild kit.
BTW I was able to remove starter without dropping throttle bodies.
Used Allen socket and ratchet.
Had to work blind, fiddly but doable.

Also checked black and striped leads to solenoid got strange results that mirror this 2011 post from custompartsguy

‘Now that I am getting 2 beeps I try to start many many times and nothing not even a click/clunk, … so I test the solenoid jumping cranks, so then I test and nothing to other side out to starter, now to test the yel/red and black for ground, what the heck the ground shows 12v + at all times and the yel/red shows 6v at all times try to start and you get 7v only, this is with the connector removed from the solenoid, wiggled the harness and no change checked connector at mpem and all connectors/pins look perfect.......”

Custompartsguy had some other issues with diagnostic beeps that I do not have but eventually diagnosed a bad MPEM.
Has anyone else seen these odd solenoid connector readings?
 
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