After searching through many threads I couldn't find the answer I'm looking for. I got a 2002 gti le. While on the hose if I rev up anything passed halfway open it will start to run away. Short quick revs it's fine. First checked all seals, checked carbs, checked about everything people recommended in the other threads and I found zero leaks as well. Not really sure where to go from here. Again it's not as bad as other people's where they cant even turn their ski on without it starting to run away. With mine I can run it on the hose as long as I want I just have to be gentle on the throttle. Other than this issue under load it runs really well. No issues with low end or top end speeds. Idles well in the water, on the hose it idles close to normal maybe a little high but nothing crazy. Just once I fully rev that throttle, she gone. Do I need to keep looking into this or is this just the personality of my ski and not touch the throttle while flushing?
2002 gti runaway
- Thread starter jpoist28
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JJinSC
Well-Known Member
#1 stop running it on the hose for “as long as you want”. This will burn up your carbon seal, especially if your are reving it that high on the hose after running more than a couple minutes. These things will run away like that if you rev it high on the trailer with no load. I’m not saying you do not have a problem. I would recommend verifying you are not running lean and that you have no leaks. It sounds like you have covered that though. Double check.
Yes I understand not to run it very long on the hose.
I do not run it on the hose as long as I want, i generally flush maybe 90 seconds tops, i was just saying it can run normal on the hose for a good amount of time and not runaway. Usually once I cut the hose off I give it a decent rev to get any left over water out and that's when I've had it run away, but only if I open it up more than half way. I also took it to a very reputable local sea doo mechanic this morning and he did a full inspection, did not find any leaks, checked carbs, he said everything appeared alright. I mean like I said this could just be the personality of my ski and I just need to be easier with it on the hose and let it idle and not touch the throttle. But usually if it runs away their is an issue, and any one that had a ski runaway on em before it's very unsettling.
Ckrawiec
Well-Known Member
Runaway engines mean that there is a fuel source and an air source and a spark source otherwise combustion could not occur normally...SO, if you are applying throttle and the engine has no LOAD on it (water resistance).....and the engine starts to runaway, MY GUESS is that the engine is sucking in fuel UNCHECKED and my suspicion is that you have a carburetor leak somewhere OR your throttle cable/linkages are not set up properly (or sticking maybe)......it is also possible that there is a fray in the cable somewhere causing it to be hanging when it shouldn't.....all simple things to check...your fingertips can find frayed cable quickly.
1. Most common reason is out of the water and the idle set just too high. 3,000 on the trailer = 1,500 in the water.
2. Allowing the head to get too hot because it is running without water going through the motor when on the trailer.
3. And some of these next reasons could be a toss up in order, Replacing the carbs onto the engine for whatever reason and setting up the throttle cable adjustment too tight at the carb cable bracket, leaving the throttle plates slightly cracked open.
4. Clogged or partially clogged low speed jets.
5. Low speed adjusters are set too far in, not allowing enough fuel to pass at idle speed.
6. Water in the gas tank that ends up inside the carbs blocking fuel flow through the jets.
7. A poor job of keeping the carb base gaskets aligned when replacing the carbs onto the manifolds equals an air leak.
8. A pin hole or split in the plastic tubing that connects the engine case pressure fitting to the check valve in the rave valve pressure supply line, or a broken check valve in that same line. This allows air to go into the engine during up strokes, leaning out the mixture.
9. One stuck needle valve that will not open.
10. Rust inside the carbs, see #6.
11. A pin hole in the fuel pump pulse line.
12. A rod hanging out the side of the cases ( or just any crack or hole in the cases ). Do not laugh, I have had customers come in saying they needed a "tune up because the motor runs away on them " only to point to that rod hanging half way out of the motor and the lower case half nearly sawed in two.
Bill O'Neal
WCM
2. Allowing the head to get too hot because it is running without water going through the motor when on the trailer.
3. And some of these next reasons could be a toss up in order, Replacing the carbs onto the engine for whatever reason and setting up the throttle cable adjustment too tight at the carb cable bracket, leaving the throttle plates slightly cracked open.
4. Clogged or partially clogged low speed jets.
5. Low speed adjusters are set too far in, not allowing enough fuel to pass at idle speed.
6. Water in the gas tank that ends up inside the carbs blocking fuel flow through the jets.
7. A poor job of keeping the carb base gaskets aligned when replacing the carbs onto the manifolds equals an air leak.
8. A pin hole or split in the plastic tubing that connects the engine case pressure fitting to the check valve in the rave valve pressure supply line, or a broken check valve in that same line. This allows air to go into the engine during up strokes, leaning out the mixture.
9. One stuck needle valve that will not open.
10. Rust inside the carbs, see #6.
11. A pin hole in the fuel pump pulse line.
12. A rod hanging out the side of the cases ( or just any crack or hole in the cases ). Do not laugh, I have had customers come in saying they needed a "tune up because the motor runs away on them " only to point to that rod hanging half way out of the motor and the lower case half nearly sawed in two.
Bill O'Neal
WCM
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