2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

[Bonmotwang]

Base locating pins are in the crankcase. Top locating pins are in the cylinder.
Looked at it again. Actually it is good. I moved a level around on the surface. The overall surface is flat.
I will try dry install.

Edit: added photos

 

[GTX RFI]

Looking good. I hope everything is coming together for you nicely

 

[Bonmotwang]

Use a plastic wire tie and compress the bottom 1/3 of each ring with one (or as close to it as you can get). As the top of the ring starts up into the bottom of the cylinder flange snip the strap lock and let the strap fall down and away. Be sure to get the cut straps out of there with the covers.

This helps keep the ring end gaps on the indexing pins where they belong and the rings slip right up into the bore.

Man. That is a great great trick.

Imagine this:
squaring in the bilge,
With one hand holding the heavy cylinder block the other hand holding the piston, then using the left over fingers to compress the rings and without rotating them out of the index pin? Almost impossible.

Took my time to tie up the rings with 4 wide tie wraps. Pushed one piston in, feel if the 2 rings sit well in, then move the tie wraps down to the wrist pin hole, which gives your room to cut them. Then same on the other piston. Then wiggle the cylinder down forward and backward.

 

[Waterluvr]

Every engine maker in the marine world has a corresponding specialty tool (ring compressor(s) that hangs on the shop wall, problem is they are designed for a stock piston and bore only in most cases.

Wire ties are your friend for any oversize piston assembly and much easier to use than most traditional ring compressors.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Every engine maker in the marine world has a corresponding specialty tool (ring compressor(s) that hangs on the shop wall, problem is they are designed for a stock piston and bore only in most cases.

Wire ties are your friend for any oversize piston assembly and much easier to use than most traditional ring compressors.

Cannot agree with you more. Otherwise I would be still fighting with the rings right now.

 

[Bonmotwang]

What is the part number for 2001 sport le bilge chair? I really need one. Seriously I am laying in the boat right now after torqued the 8 studs to 5N.m each.

 

[Waterluvr]

What is the part number for 2001 sport le bilge chair? I really need one. Seriously I am laying in the boat right now after torqued the 8 studs to 5N.m each.

:facepalm:That's all I got for you right now. Hurry up! I want to see that motor running on Youtube by tonight.

So, you've learned a thing or two about two stroke motors now haven't you?

 

[Bonmotwang]

:facepalm:That's all I got for you right now. Hurry up! I want to see that motor running on Youtube by tonight.

So, you've learned a thing or two about two stroke motors now haven't you?

Should be able to test tomorrow.

This is what's in my mind.
1) put in the carbs tonight. Basically everything is back together.
2) recheck the cylinder head torque.
3) turn over by hand to see if it is smooth. (Tried after torqued the head)
4) compression test.
5) question A) how to prime the fuel into the carb? Just keep pushing the throttle cable? Or just do normal start to crank the engine?
6) if it start normally. Am I ready to do water test/carb adjustment?
7) if it idles ok. Am I ready for break in?

 

[Waterluvr]

Should be able to test tomorrow.

This is what's in my mind.
1) put in the carbs tonight. Basically everything is back together.
2) recheck the cylinder head torque.
3) turn over by hand to see if it is smooth. (Tried after torqued the head)
4) compression test.
5) question A) how to prime the fuel into the carb? Just keep pushing the throttle cable? Or just do normal start to crank the engine?
6) if it start normally. Am I ready to do water test/carb adjustment?
7) if it idles ok. Am I ready for break in?

Solid plan, don't worry about the compression test right away and before you put the head on and torque it down go ahead and roll those new pistons over several times by hand and make sure you add a film of oil to the cylinder wall every few rotations.

This will give you a chance to see everything in the cylinder and make sure those pistons are running smoothly, don't sweat it when you feel a little resistance as it moves between tdc and bdc of the stoke it's got some wearing in to do.

Don't drown the piston in oil, the rings need to be able to float inside the groove in the piston and you don't want the grooves full of oil occupying all the volume.

I use a Mity Vac to pull fuel back to the end of the supply hose and clamp it right on to the carb/pump inlet from there, they flow fuel right when the motor cranks that way.

So long as it starts and idles ok pat yourself on the back and be ready to water test it, good work I know you were apprehensive about taking that on by yourself and you did just fine with it.

I would still rather start it initially in the water versus on the trailer, 3K rpm on fresh rings and bore isn't ideal.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Solid plan, don't worry about the compression test right away

Without compression test, do I know if the engine will start?

and before you put the head on and torque it down go ahead and roll those new pistons over several times by hand and make sure you add a film of oil to the cylinder wall every few rotations. This will give you a chance to see everything in the cylinder and make sure those pistons are running smoothly, don't sweat it when you feel a little resistance as it moves between tdc and bdc of the stoke it's got some wearing in to do.

I have rotated it many times before I said "see you in 10 years" to the pistons. and added a lot of XPS oil from the top. It moved smoothly, tighter than the old one, didn't hear any scratching sound, and no scratching marks I can see, no resistance noticeable near TDC and BDC. Rings went over the ports nicely.

Don't drown the piston in oil, the rings need to be able to float inside the groove in the piston and you don't want the grooves full of oil occupying all the volume.

Didn't drown the piston, but I added a lot of oil on the crown and skirt and rings before I slid the cylinder on.

I use a Mity Vac to pull fuel back to the end of the supply hose and clamp it right on to the carb/pump inlet from there, they flow fuel right when the motor cranks that way.

I hope when I lower my fuel line lower than the fuel level it will flow out. It's been two weeks now, not sure there is still fuel left in the fuel line. I used mouth in the spring to get the fuel out :-D. Mity Vac

So long as it starts and idles ok pat yourself on the back and be ready to water test it, good work I know you were apprehensive about taking that on by yourself and you did just fine with it.

I would still rather start it initially in the water versus on the trailer, 3K rpm on fresh rings and bore isn't ideal.

You are probably right. No difference between my garage and the dock, I just need to bring all the tools with me.
I really appreciate the help and tricks (still love the tie wrap one) you guys has been giving along the way in hourly basis.:cheers:

 

[Waterluvr]

Without compression test, do I know if the engine will start?


I have rotated it many times before I said "see you in 10 years" to the pistons. and added a lot of XPS oil from the top. It moved smoothly, tighter than the old one, didn't hear any scratching sound, and no scratching marks I can see, no resistance noticeable near TDC and BDC. Rings went over the ports nicely.


Didn't drown the piston, but I added a lot of oil on the crown and skirt and rings before I slid the cylinder on.


I hope when I lower my fuel line lower than the fuel level it will flow out. It's been two weeks now, not sure there is still fuel left in the fuel line. I used mouth in the spring to get the fuel out :-D. Mity Vac


You are probably right. No difference between my garage and the dock, I just need to bring all the tools with me.
I really appreciate the help and tricks (still love the tie wrap one) you guys has been giving along the way in hourly basis.:cheers:

I know Sportsters been at this for some time and is top of the mark as a service professional. I hung it up after 30 years as an OMC/Mercury*Mercruiser/Volvo Penta/Yamaha certified technician and dealer principle because there wasn't much left to save of this old body after all of that but I suspect he's right up there with me in years and experience.

It's rewarding to just help someone out when you don't have anymore than a pat on the back to worry about at the end of it, doing it to make a living is a tough business.

Go ahead and test compression if you want, don't be discouraged at the numbers you see they will come up a lot after a short period of break in time.

I won't tell you to turn the selector valve on and take the fuel line and hold it down at the bottom of the bilge to get the line filled but's exactly what will happen and you might spill some. -Spilled fuel is bad.

 

[GTX RFI]

If you do go down to the launch to start it you might want to have a battery booster pack or put your battery on a charge tonight. Just to ensure there is enough cranking power.

 

[Guest_User]

Good Luck man! you deserve a round of applause after all that...

give it hell!:thumbsup:

 

[Bonmotwang]

If you do go down to the launch to start it you might want to have a battery booster pack or put your battery on a charge tonight. Just to ensure there is enough cranking power.

Yes. It is on charge right now.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Good Luck man! you deserve a round of applause after all that...

give it hell!:thumbsup:

Thanks. It has been a nice learning curve. Yes. Let's bring her back to life! And faster!

 

[Bonmotwang]

Oh. Remembered one thing: my boat was idling at 1500 RPM on the trailer in the spring. I adjusted it to normal idle speed when I put it in water. Then got 3500RPM on trailer. All good after that.

But it just made me thinking can I adjust the idle speed screw to close the throttle more and get lower idle speed on trailer. So that I have more confidence at the dock?

 

[Waterluvr]

Sure can, BUT: Since you have been into those carbs doing work be ready and able to pull the DESS lanyard if for some reason rpm's get out of hand.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

For priming, connect a 1/4" tubing piece onto the "T" fitting of the return line from the carbs and suck fuel up from the fuel baffle, through the lines and into the fuel pump.

I wanna know what you did with your extra thumb you didn't need while wiggling those pistons into their new holes?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Make sure the choke cable is connected and able to apply full choke as well, in case of runaway. Sometimes these motors will go into compression-ignition runaway and pulling the lanyard won't help, so always make sure your choke is working so you can stop it in case this happens.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Everything is back together as two weeks ago except the fuel line which I will do in the morning.
The choke is working. Tested with my toe, the left one.
I will do the T priming to get the fuel all the way through.
Only thing else I wanted to do is to inject more counterbalance gear oil. At least will check in the morning.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Double check again: what is the oil ratio for break in?

 

[Waterluvr]

Double check again: what is the oil ratio for break in?

I sent you a PM with a link to an article written by Bill O'neal regarding extra oil and break in procedure for a rebuilt 951, it's the best break in advice I've ever seen put to writing regarding water cooled two strokes and your engine in particular.

 

[Bonmotwang]

I sent you a PM with a link to an article written by Bill O'neal regarding extra oil and break in procedure for a rebuilt 951, it's the best break in advice I've ever seen put to writing regarding water cooled two strokes and your engine in particular.

Thanks. I bought enough premix XPS II for about 80:1. Should be good then. I just turned the idle screw out 1 turn, so the plate is almost closed. I will use the throttle to control the first start up on trailer.
Will quickly check the counterbalance oil and then suck the the fuel through the T. And then fire up.

 

[Guest_User]

Bill O`Neil is the Man!

IMHO I`d leave the idle set to spec, the boat will idle at 1500 in the water and only higher out of the water bc the engine is unloaded and free wheeling. you don`t want a runaway while your messing with a new start up...
If the battery is fresh and fully charged there is no reason why you couldn`t start it up in the water... The little bit of resistance could help you...

either she`s gonna fire and run or not...

 

[Bonmotwang]

Just sucked the fuel out of the return T. Then I was expecting I can pump some fuel out of the little brass tube at the intake by moving the throttle. But I did 15 times still nothing comes out.