2001 Seadoo Sportster LE. Just got it!

[Bonmotwang]

Thanks for all the help from you guys.
I got the boat in the morning, sitting in the drive way now.
A lot of pictures to come.

I will be posting all my steps and learn curves of going through my first boating experience.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Keep it warm and loved, living room is good!

Congrats, I like carbed marine motors.....

 

[Coastiejoe]

I think the living room idea is a good one...

Assuming you are married, it will be a test to see how much your wife loves you... LOL

Congrats on the purchase...

 

[Bonmotwang]

2001 Sportster looking from Outside

it was a sunny day.

 

[USAF_Pride]

Nice boat. It looks like you need a drop hitch :thumbsup:

 

[Bonmotwang]

These are some pictures in the engine compartment. Any signs of "good" or "bad"?

Do I need to clean the engine compartment, it looks very "dirty".

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[Bonmotwang]

First time into the water, Engine has some issues

Today is a very nice day. I brought the boat into the lake.
Oh my God, Backing up a trailer is so much "FUN", but the people at the boat ramp are very nice and helpful, which is another long story I can tell. :cheers:

I managed to get the boat started and drove it into the lake for a few minutes and came back. Because of the difficulties I had while starting the engine, I didn't drive it too long into the lake. Just worried that I couldn't get the boat back, and it was very wavy.

Ok this is so far what I experienced:

1) Pulled the choke and pushed the red button: Engine ran for a few seconds then stopped.
2) Pulled the choke and held the red button for long time (about 10 - 15 seconds), Engine kind of kept running after, but stopped many times.
3) After engine got started, after I geared into forward, then I need give it more (half position) throttle right way. This "technique" seemed to work: it will keep the engine running. And in the few minutes on the lake, it was ok, I just cruised around at slow speed.
4) On my way back to the dock, the engine stopped again, and I had very hard time to get it restart: Hold the red button long time, after engine start, switch to forward right away, then increase throttle right away. Somehow I got it restarted and docked.

Overall I liked my first self boating trip in my life. The problem on the engine seems to be the idling speed was set too low?
I have no experience of either car engine or boat engines. But I play 1:8 Nitro powered monster truck, so I can guess :-D

Again, backing up trailer gave me more trouble than the engine :lol: (I need to find a parking lot to practice. shhhhhh)

 

[Bonmotwang]

Nice boat. It looks like you need a drop hitch :thumbsup:

You are right, I will return this one and get a 2 or 3 1/2 drop ball.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Pictures of the impeller

I don't think I can see the impeller from the back clearly. It is kind of deep inside there, isn't it?

 

[grinditout]

Any history on it?

Has it been in the atlantic?

 

[Bonmotwang]

Any history on it?

Has it been in the atlantic?

It has always been in the lake.


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[USAF_Pride]

My engines are a little cold blooded and I have to play with the choke to get it started and warmed up (about a minute). Carb rebuilds are on my list this winter as I have the gray tempo lines on the carb units and I doubt the prior owner(s) have done any maintenance on them. I bet your carbs need some attention as well.

Restarting one of these boats can be troublesome as the fresh air intake isn't so good. Did you run the blower to pump in fresh combustion air into the engine compartment? I believe the manual says 5 minutes (or open the hatch). I have gotten into the habit of running the blower when I am idling around as IMO there isn't enough airflow to push fresh air into the enginge compartment.

That lake looks a little acidic. Was the boat sitting on a lift with the pumps in the water?

The engine compartment needs a good cleanup so you can pinpoint fluid leaks and make it a little bit more enjoyable to work on. Where do those blue wires and red & black wires go? Is that a gray fuel line?

 

[Bonmotwang]

Hi USAF_Pride,
I didn't run the blower at all. As soon as the boat was in the water, I turned the fuel on, the battery on, then pulled the choke to start.
So I guess this is the first thing I did wrong to get it started.
And the trick of idling with the blower on is a good one. I will try this.
The boat was floating in the water already when I started trying everything to get it to start. So it the pump was in the water.

What should I use for the cleanup. I will buy some from the local auto store.
I will check the blue and red wires.
Thanks
Paul

 

[USAF_Pride]

Hi USAF_Pride,
I didn't run the blower at all. As soon as the boat was in the water, I turned the fuel on, the battery on, then pulled the choke to start.
So I guess this is the first thing I did wrong to get it started.

When you first started it, it had all kinds of fresh air in it from being towed. Nothing wrong on the first start, although they recommend running the blower to remove "explosive" gasses.

The boat was floating in the water already when I started trying everything to get it to start. So it the pump was in the water.

I meant to say: was the boat stored in the water (on a lift or otherwise)?

What should I use for the cleanup. I will buy some from the local auto store.

Most people use SuperClean. Others have different preferences. Get what works for the cheapest cost.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

In the water, as soon as it fires off, give it a bit of throttle, not much but enough to keep it running till it warms up a bit, I think I take mine to a bout 2200 RPM, I go by sound though.

A carbed engine can be cold natured on cold starts, normal hot idle throttle is usually too low for a cold idle.

But, if it's not making power properly after a few minutes warmup then there could be a problem that needs immediate attention.

Don't run the engine hard until after it's warmed up a few minutes at an elevated (no wake) throttle, the cylinders need to expand and stabilize.

It's not fuel injection like so many are spoiled by, FI can start and idle like it's already warm b/c the computer controls fuel mixture based on a map and sensor input, computer calculates how much fuel is necessary for the conditions of throttle position and engine rpm, air temperature and engine vacuum, so it knows and reacts automatically if engine rpm's drop or air temps are low.

It's carbed, so expect to "nurse" the throttle open slightly when engine is cold, but beware the jet pump continuously pumps water and propulsion is a direct function of engine speed, along with the rear bucket position (reverse, "neutral", forward) Neutral is a balance between forward and reverse such that the boat almost doesn't move.

And yes, the engine bay needs cleaning. I use bilge cleaner and hot water, some guys use simple green or some other products names I can't recall at the moment, Super Clean, I think it's called.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Gasoline vapors are heavier than air and explosive under the right conditions, or flammable under a wide range, so there is a bilge blower to try to remove any fumes that may collect in the bilge, since the vapors are heavire than air they tend to collect in the bottom.

It's important your fuel system doesn't leak, for this reason, there will still be some vapor that collects normally, so the bilge blower is there for safety reasons.

 

[Bonmotwang]

I meant to say: was the boat stored in the water (on a lift or otherwise)?

It was stored on the trailer in the previous owner's garage.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I always explain to new boaters:

Boating is all about relaxing and having fun, there is a learning curve to get all the moving pieces working in unison, so just remember the goal is to have fun and not be in a hurry. Being in a hurry will cause you to make mistakes, and it detracts from the fun, IMO.

 

[Bonmotwang]

In the water, as soon as it fires off, give it a bit of throttle, not much but enough to keep it running till it warms up a bit, I think I take mine to a bout 2200 RPM, I go by sound though.

When it is in neutral, I couldn't get the RPM up to keep it running. I had to switch to forward and then push the throttle up to keep the engine going. Is the shift position somehow affect the engine? I though the shift position only has a mechanical link to the rear bucket.

But, if it's not making power properly after a few minutes warmup then there could be a problem that needs immediate attention.

I managed to get the engine running and boat was moving at low speed, and I got the boat out of the harbor no problem. What it is on the water running no problem. I was cruising around for 5 - 10 minutes. Worried about the boat will stop on me, so I drove it back to the dock. When I was close to the dock, I put the throttle to idle, it idled for about 30 seconds, then stopped.
Do you think I need to anything immediately?

And yes, the engine bay needs cleaning. I use bilge cleaner and hot water, some guys use simple green or some other products names I can't recall at the moment, Super Clean, I think it's called.

I will get the Super Clean. When I wash the bay. Can I spray water on the engine? I guess I only need to stay away from the battery, the computer, fuse boxes, all the electronics stuff right? And I need to open the two small drain plugs at the bottom of the board?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

The oil in the tank looks blue, it's probably the wrong type. It shouldn't be TC-W3 outboard motor oil, you will need to drain the tank and clean the residue of the old oil before installing the correct new oil, if it's the wrong type.

I use BRP XPS-II, it works well.

 

[Bonmotwang]

Gasoline vapors are heavier than air and explosive under the right conditions, or flammable under a wide range, so there is a bilge blower to try to remove any fumes that may collect in the bilge, since the vapors are heavire than air they tend to collect in the bottom.

It's important your fuel system doesn't leak, for this reason, there will still be some vapor that collects normally, so the bilge blower is there for safety reasons.

Now the boat is stored in my garage.


When I open the engine bay last night, I only smell a little gasoline. I guess this is a good sigh right?
I am planning to have a garage vent installed for the garage.

Can I turn the bilge blower on anytime I want? The manual says "... turn if OFF above idle speed. Use of the bilge blower should never replace "smelling" for gasoline vapors". Does it mean I need to keep the blower running when it is AT idle speed?

 

[Bonmotwang]

I always explain to new boaters:

Boating is all about relaxing and having fun, there is a learning curve to get all the moving pieces working in unison, so just remember the goal is to have fun and not be in a hurry. Being in a hurry will cause you to make mistakes, and it detracts from the fun, IMO.

Thanks for the advice. It is very important to me. I brought my family out yesterday. Shouldn't have done that. But they were great, supporting and liked the trip. But as you said clearly, it is about fun, instead of rushing every step. Every preparing step should be part of the fun.
I will already remember that.

Also I noticed that people that go boating are "nicer", willing to help, understanding, generous about their time, very mature, calm and patient. At least those ones I met yesterday. And so as you guys here!

 

[USAF_Pride]

When it is in neutral, I couldn't get the RPM up to keep it running. I had to switch to forward and then push the throttle up to keep the engine going. Is the shift position somehow affect the engine? I though the shift position only has a mechanical link to the rear bucket.


I managed to get the engine running and boat was moving at low speed, and I got the boat out of the harbor no problem. What it is on the water running no problem. I was cruising around for 5 - 10 minutes. Worried about the boat will stop on me, so I drove it back to the dock. When I was close to the dock, I put the throttle to idle, it idled for about 30 seconds, then stopped.
Do you think I need to anything immediately?

IMO, it sounds like the carbs need to be rebuilt. Old spark plugs can also make the motors run rough. Either way, you don't have many warm days left to use it anyways

I will get the Super Clean. When I wash the bay. Can I spray water on the engine? I guess I only need to stay away from the battery, the computer, fuse boxes, all the electronics stuff right? And I need to open the two small drain plugs at the bottom of the board?

It's a boat, things are made to get wet, just not made to be soaked. My drain plugs are always removed when the boat is out of the water. I pull the boat just slightly up the ramp, hop out to make sure it is seated on the trailer correctly, and then pull the plugs. The angle of the ramp helps it drain. Remember to put the plugs back in before you back down the ramp!!

The oil in the tank looks blue, it's probably the wrong type. It shouldn't be TC-W3 outboard motor oil, you will need to drain the tank and clean the residue of the old oil before installing the correct new oil, if it's the wrong type.

I use BRP XPS-II, it works well.

Ask the previous owner what type of oil they used. Mine was using the TC-W3. I replaced it all with the correct oil, and it looks blue as well.

When I open the engine bay last night, I only smell a little gasoline. I guess this is a good sigh right?
I am planning to have a garage vent installed for the garage.

Can I turn the bilge blower on anytime I want? The manual says "... turn if OFF above idle speed. Use of the bilge blower should never replace "smelling" for gasoline vapors". Does it mean I need to keep the blower running when it is AT idle speed?

All two strokes have a gas smell IMO, you just don't want the leaking gas smell. Thus the reason to clean the bilge. The blower blows out I believe, so when you are driving, the air is trying to be pushed in, thus fighting the blower.

 

[Bonmotwang]

The oil in the tank looks blue, it's probably the wrong type. It shouldn't be TC-W3 outboard motor oil, you will need to drain the tank and clean the residue of the old oil before installing the correct new oil, if it's the wrong type.

I use BRP XPS-II, it works well.

It looks dark blue from the outside. I will open the tank and see what color is inside.
How can I tell if it is TC-W3 or not the right one?
After I drain the tank, how "clean" the residue? by rinsing with the new oil?

What color is BRP XPS-II?

 

[USAF_Pride]

It looks dark blue from the outside. I will open the tank and see what color is inside.
How can I tell if it is TC-W3 or not the right one?
After I drain the tank, how "clean" the residue? by rinsing with the new oil?

See above. Just ask the PO, they should be glad to tell you. If they ask why, just say "I've heard that they shouldn't be mixed and I wanted to use the same oil".

To get the oil out, use a transfer pump such as this. I just did this recently on my boat. See this thread for more info.