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2001 Rx Di
- Thread starter Maximumquake
- Start date
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References to wrenches as worthless and stupid are subjective and relative to individual experiences with a particular specific brand of wrench. Please note that no one on this forum has used or fondled the "Gene" wrench or used it to loosen said nut. Therefore any comments positive or negative are directed at the wrenches other than the "Gene" wrench. As with all wrenches, success of failure often depends on skillful manipulation. 
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References to wrenches as worthless and stupid are subjective and relative to individual experiences with a particular specific brand of wrench. Please note that no one on this forum has used or fondled the "Gene" wrench or used it to loosen said nut. Therefore any comments positive or negative are directed at the wrenches other than the "Gene" wrench. As with all wrenches, success of failure often depends on skillful manipulation.
Can you please start making "The Gene Wrench" for us?
As you said, your's looks pretty good unlike the crap stamped ebay ones. I tried a few and even made one but I for me it was much easier to remove the carbs/throttle body then I could even torque the bolt properly also.
It's very subjective.
Man, I'm short and when I lean over to try to get under the pipe it hurts my rib cage really bad.. I can't believe you guys fight removing the carbs before the pipe.... Ick !! I also like to be able to see things come together and inspect as I go. The wrench is an alternative, to each his/her own. Whatever is easier for the individual. I can't get the airbox out of the RX without pulling the rear vent system. I'd like to see a video on that. 
I thought Seadoo made a super duper factory wrench for this. I just bent mine in a few minutes to get in there. I did a little shaping. I could do more to decrease the web and let it come around more but I can always get another bite. I think maybe the Duralast wrench might be a good choice to bend as the web isn't as thick as my Craftsman. Thing I've found is, the nut only needs to be loosed a small amount,
Making them? Not really anyone can make a good if they just take their time. I could do a lot better but it works as is. The angle is pretty good I'd just die grind the inside of the web so it has a little more room to come around the flange.
I need one of those cool wrenches you make for the trim nut. LOL It's all about how we like to work. It's an art. Some like it on the bottom, some like on top.
I also like to be able to see things come together and inspect as I go. The wrench is an alternative, to each his/her own. Whatever is easier for the individual. I can't get the airbox out of the RX without pulling the rear vent system. I'd like to see a video on that. I thought Seadoo made a super duper factory wrench for this. I just bent mine in a few minutes to get in there. I did a little shaping. I could do more to decrease the web and let it come around more but I can always get another bite. I think maybe the Duralast wrench might be a good choice to bend as the web isn't as thick as my Craftsman. Thing I've found is, the nut only needs to be loosed a small amount,
Making them? Not really anyone can make a good if they just take their time.
I could do a lot better but it works as is. The angle is pretty good I'd just die grind the inside of the web so it has a little more room to come around the flange.I need one of those cool wrenches you make for the trim nut. LOL It's all about how we like to work. It's an art. Some like it on the bottom, some like on top.
Maximumquake
New Member
I wont get a chance to work really work on my rx again till this weekend. I am going to make a wrench and see if that works. I am thinking the nut is going to have to come all the way off because of the broken bolt I have.
I have already taken the airbox off. But I am not able to slide it out. Like etemplet said, it looks like I would have to pull the rear vent system.
I have already taken the airbox off. But I am not able to slide it out. Like etemplet said, it looks like I would have to pull the rear vent system.
DanSquires
Well-Known Member
Three bolts from the rear grab bar and the black box and vents are loose. the airbox on the RX is a pain in the butt
You will have to undo the nut completely because of how your other bolt is broken..
Make the wrench, everyone has their own way of doing things. I cant even count how many 951's I've worked on that involved either pulling carbs or the pipe (hundreds, though) and find the bendy wrench to be the hard way to go about it.
Maximumquake
New Member
I ended up just pulling the throttle bodies to get to the nut. I then I got the head pipe off. Oddly enough the bolt that was snapped off in the exhuast manifold came out with channels locks it wasn't froze. Someone has had this whole exhaust off at some point I just dont known why. The back bolt behind the fuel rail that holds the exhaust is missing.
So here is my next question how do I get the next segment of the exhuast off? Do I need to remove the fuel rail?
So here is my next question how do I get the next segment of the exhuast off? Do I need to remove the fuel rail?
Man you lucked out on the bolt coming right out !! Good Stuff !! I'd pull the fuel rail and the line on top of the Compressor. That should allow you to move the fuel rail away from the work area. You'll need to unplug some electrics on the fuel injectors. It's simple just tight.
Maximumquake
New Member
Will the oil lines just pop off if I pull on them. Or do I need to undo the factory clamp. Because even with the fuel rail off it is still going to he really tight for me. What is the easiest way to undo the clamp in that tight of a space.
I find if I can get the flat part of a screwdriver to push on the little clamp they slide over rather easily. I had an issue with one of my oilers being plugged up so I did some cleaning and checking. I found out they need resistance... maybe 5 pounds or so to open up and let the oil spray into the engine. I don't have to tell you... it's gonna be tight working in that space. Good luck. Pay attention to where the lines go. 
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Maximumquake
New Member
So this happened while pulling out the fuel rail. I guess I might as well send the injectors out because one already popped out. Where do I send them to get cleaned? The manual says to replace the carbon seals anytime the injector is removed. Do I have to buy the tool the manual talks about to install the carbon seal?
Maximumquake
New Member
It's not broken. It just popped out. I put it right back in. The manual says you need to buy a special tool to reinsert them properly. Everyone I have read who replaced them just slid them back in and they work fine.
Does dale clean these?
Does dale clean these?
Yes, he does. I sent the fuel injectors and he contacted me and said to send the air injectors because they are more apt to cause problems. Cost me around $100 to do all 4. I just got these back yesterday. I have a set of spares so I don't have to wait. fuelinjectorman.com
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