2001 Rx Di

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Maximumquake

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A few weeks ago I bought a 2007 yamaha vx deluxe , a double trailer and a seadoo rxdi for 2900. The ski I really wanted was the yamaha, but everything came as a package. The skis appear to be in okay shape. I dont know if they have been taken the best care of.

I knew absolutely nothing about RXDI's till i bought this ski. The RXDI has 155 hours on it. The front cylinder has 145 psi and back one is closer to 150 psi. When I got it the maintenance light was on and it was showing low voltage. I just charged the battery and changed the rectifier. Now the maintenance light is off and is running fine on the trailer. Since it is cold where I live I will not be able to put it in the water for a few months.

I just winterized the ski. I fogged it how the manual says. I removed the battery. I ran 4 gallons of marine antifreeze thru the flush port on the back of the ski. I know that is not how the manual suggests, but will that suffice?

What general maintenance should I do to prep the ski for the summer? I am not familiar with the oil system on it, so I either planned on checking it myself or taking it to a dealer to drain the old oil and check it out. Is it difficult to drain the oil and check the oil system myself? I planned on cleaning the rave valves and changing the oil in the jet pump. Is there anything other type of preventative maintenance I should do to it? Or is there anything significant I should know about this ski?

I am pretty sure the ski is supposed to use full synthetic api tc oils. What are oils that people have used in this ski? Other then the 50 dollar a gallon XPS oil.
 
Rectifiers usually fail after about 10 years. I highly recommend OEM rectifiers.
Might not be a bad idea to pull the fuel pump and change the internal filters.
Airtex FS220 & FS242.
While you are at it I would change the external fuel filter as well.
I highly recommend you only use OEM oil I can’t tell you how many DI skis I have seen with a blown engine and blue looking oil in the tank.
Another good thing to do with a ski that age is send the injectors out for cleaning.

Hope the engine was running when you poured 4 gallons of antifreeze through it.
Good luck.
 
The rectifier I put on it was not OEM. But it was one other people suggested that has worked well for them. And yes the motor was running when I ran the antifreeze thru it.
 
The rectifier I put on it was not OEM. But it was one other people suggested that has worked well for them. And yes the motor was running when I ran the antifreeze thru it.

I figured the engine was running. I have never had any luck with non OEM rectifiers. Hopefully you will have better luck.
 
A few weeks ago I bought a 2007 yamaha vx deluxe , a double trailer and a seadoo rxdi for 2900. The ski I really wanted was the yamaha, but everything came as a package. The skis appear to be in okay shape. I dont know if they have been taken the best care of.

I knew absolutely nothing about RXDI's till i bought this ski. The RXDI has 155 hours on it. The front cylinder has 145 psi and back one is closer to 150 psi. When I got it the maintenance light was on and it was showing low voltage. I just charged the battery and changed the rectifier. Now the maintenance light is off and is running fine on the trailer. Since it is cold where I live I will not be able to put it in the water for a few months.

I just winterized the ski. I fogged it how the manual says. I removed the battery. I ran 4 gallons of marine antifreeze thru the flush port on the back of the ski. I know that is not how the manual suggests, but will that suffice?

What general maintenance should I do to prep the ski for the summer? I am not familiar with the oil system on it, so I either planned on checking it myself or taking it to a dealer to drain the old oil and check it out. Is it difficult to drain the oil and check the oil system myself? I planned on cleaning the rave valves and changing the oil in the jet pump. Is there anything other type of preventative maintenance I should do to it? Or is there anything significant I should know about this ski?

I am pretty sure the ski is supposed to use full synthetic api tc oils. What are oils that people have used in this ski? Other then the 50 dollar a gallon XPS oil.

what i would definitely, at least, do is:

clean the RAVE valves
change the fuel filters (there are 3)
change spark plugs
to change the oil, you can either suck it out of the tank, or take the line off the bottom of the tank and drain it out. not hard to do at all. and yes, use the expensive oil. you have to.
change pump oil

what i would suggest you do is:

clean and test the fuel injectors and air injectors
test your fuel pressure (make sure it is at 107PSI)

take it to a dealer and have them check your maint light. they might charge a little to do it, or they might want your future business, so they might do it for free, which is what a dealer did for me. they can see what is wrong and reset it.

DI's are finicky, so be prepared.

EDIT: also, do not run anything under 91 octane
 
Good advice from everyone above. I am working through all of it with my own GTX DI but I have a blown motor so it is a bit more complicated! As to the dealer checking the code, the SeaDoo dealers I spoke with will no longer work on 2 strokes. You may need to find an independent shop or buy a CanDooPro: CANDooPro LLC, Diagnostic Tools
 
As soon as I replaced the rectifier and charged the battery the maintenance light went off. It runs fine on the trailer. The oil tank is leaking. So I am planning on fixing it and replacing all the oil lines.

Once I replace all the oil lines I was going to take the pump off and turn it with a drill to prime it. Is there an easier way to do this? I am going to clean the rave valve's, change the pump oil and put in a new wear ring if needed. I will figure out how to change the fuel filters and then change them.

Thanks for the replys. I plan on doing all the right maintenance and then running the hell out of it and hope it doesnt blow up ‍♂️.
 
After you change the lines and filter open the bleed screw until fresh oil comes out. Then start the ski and let it idle with the oil pump lever held wide open. It will fill the lines quickly. These need almost no oil at idle so you’ll be fine, don’t bother with the drill thing.
 
I am assuming you have the exhaust pipe off the ski doing the work you are planning. You can't get to much with that exhaust pipe on there so get everything done that you can with it off. I can't see being able to even see the pump with the pipe installed. You' re gonna need that special wrench or bend your own. :) This isn't a DI but I don't think they will be any easier. :) Good Luck. Check your throttle cable make sure it moves free and has no snags.

2000 RX Engine (2).JPEG2000 RX Engine (4).JPEG
 
This was going to be my next question thank you lol. You answered it. I have already read the manual on how to remove the exhaust. I bought a smaller torque wrench, molykote 111 and ultra copper sealant in preparation for that. I built a jet ski stand today, so tomorrow I can get it off the double trailer and in the garage

I also ordered the filters for the ski they look east enough to replace.

My next question is, will running seafoam thru it help at all at cleaning the injectors or keep them from getting clogged?
 
No do not ever run Seafoam. It won’t fix anything and isn’t the best for a 2-stroke.
 
This was going to be my next question thank you lol. You answered it. I have already read the manual on how to remove the exhaust. I bought a smaller torque wrench, molykote 111 and ultra copper sealant in preparation for that. I built a jet ski stand today, so tomorrow I can get it off the double trailer and in the garage

I also ordered the filters for the ski they look east enough to replace.

My next question is, will running seafoam thru it help at all at cleaning the injectors or keep them from getting clogged?

I have wrestled the hell out of a couple of DI's lately. My first ones. Can't say they are easy but you need experience with them and once you've done it you'll know where the difficulties lie. Ha ha. When you get into it, just post up. I"m not a big troubleshooter with these skis but I can get them apart and back together.

If you have a torch you can bend the wrench to get behind the exhaust flange. I read that they sell them. You don't have to take the nut all they way off as it is slotted on only that one side. Don't lose that nut. :)

Are you going to pull the engine? I wouldn't.... too many dang lines to connect and they are not at all easy to get to. :)
 
. I built a jet ski stand today, so tomorrow I can get it off the double trailer and in the garage

I also ordered the filters for the ski they look east enough to replace.

I hope you made a "low rider" type stand. I"m short and my first stand was too tall and I probably could have put a car on top . :D I had to modify it to make it lower. One big problem I have is no brakes on the wheels for the stand which isn't a big deal. Now I use 2 Harbor Freight dollies as a base and put 2"x 6" on top. Keeps it nice and low. :) Shop Stand GTX.jpgSpx Shop Stand 2.jpg
 
I do not plan on taking out the motor. I plan on doing the least amount of work as possible lol. I did not build a "low rider" stand. It turned out pretty tall

Here is a picture of one of my rave valves. The other valve is exactly the same. Isnt it missing a baffle?
 

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I'm short... :) No missing baffle. They use a different type of piston on the rave. You good. :)
 
When taking off the exhaust. Is there any easy way to get to the bottom hose that attaches to it? It's hard for me to fit my hand in there.
 

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Can you post a picture of an example of how you bent the wrench to fit the nut. I do have an oxygen/ acetylene torch. So it wont be a problem to do.

I found another problem. The third bolt for the exhaust head pipe was snapped off. So someone has worked on it prior to me. I think once i get the pipe off I am going to grind down two flat sides and use an adjustable to get it out. The top two bolts felt a lot tighter then they need to be. So it will be interesting to see how hard it will be to get this out.
 

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I can take a picture tomorrow but it is basically a distributor wrench type bend. I'm pretty sure the wrench size is 15mm. I also had to grind some off the thickness of the box end. I just clamped the box end of the wrench in my vice and heated up close to the end, took my time with the bend and made sure I didn't stretch it too much in the process.
 
When taking off the exhaust. Is there any easy way to get to the bottom hose that attaches to it? It's hard for me to fit my hand in there.

yes, it's very easy to get to once you remove the airbox and throttle bodies.

Can you post a picture of an example of how you bent the wrench to fit the nut. I do have an oxygen/ acetylene torch. So it wont be a problem to do.

I found another problem. The third bolt for the exhaust head pipe was snapped off. So someone has worked on it prior to me. I think once i get the pipe off I am going to grind down two flat sides and use an adjustable to get it out. The top two bolts felt a lot tighter then they need to be. So it will be interesting to see how hard it will be to get this out.

Again, forget the stupid wrench and remove the throttle bodies. I've got the proper (bought) wrench and I never use the thing.
And just buy another manifold, they're painfully cheap.
 
OK.... I got the hook up for you. I've been doing this stuff a long time and I gotta say, this Blaster Stuff (penetrant) works surprisingly well. I highly recommend it and it will sure help getting your bolts out. Home Depot. :) Here are some pictures of the wrench. It gets the job done. Now as for removing your broken bolt or bolts I would not remove any metal from the bolt you'll only weaken it. I included a picture of a method that works pretty well. If you have room, put one nut on top of the other, tighten very securely and use the bottom nut to remove the stud. My second choice should be a good pair of vise-grip locking pliers. You might want to use enough heat to expand the housing the bolt is stuck into. Most likely oxidation is why the bolts won't come out So here ya go !! Good Luck !! Oh and don't force it... take your time. :D

Bent Wrench Manifold net Seadoo (3).JPEGBent Wrench Manifold net Seadoo (5).JPEGBent Wrench Manifold net Seadoo (2).JPEGBent Wrench Manifold net Seadoo (5).JPEGBent Wrench Manifold net Seadoo (6).JPEGBlaster Liquid wrench penetrant.JPEG
 
Dan squires I will see what taking off the throttle bodies entails. I dont want to buy a new exhaust manifold if I dont have to.

Harbor freight sells a set of cheap s wrenches. I am going to try to get them. And see if they work. PB blaster is good stuff. I will let it soak in there. If this bolt is as tight as the other two bolts were, even with pb blaster I dont think vise grips will work. With a little heat they might work. There isnt enough meat on the bolt to get two nuts on it. I could screw a nut on and weld the end of it. I have did that several times in the past and it works well.
 
If you pull the throttle bodies you don't need any special wrenches.

Those wrenches have always been a pain in the ass so after the first attempt I have never used one again.
 
Dan squires I will see what taking off the throttle bodies entails. I dont want to buy a new exhaust manifold if I dont have to.

Harbor freight sells a set of cheap s wrenches. I am going to try to get them. And see if they work. PB blaster is good stuff. I will let it soak in there. If this bolt is as tight as the other two bolts were, even with pb blaster I dont think vise grips will work. With a little heat they might work. There isnt enough meat on the bolt to get two nuts on it. I could screw a nut on and weld the end of it. I have did that several times in the past and it works well.

It's a matter of taking off the airbox (you need to do regardless), removing one allen headed bolt (you must do regardless) and two hose clamps. Spend half an hour dinking with making a wrench that kinda works, or one minute loosening two hose clamps. That wrench is the biggest waste of time, IMO.
 
I don't want to buy a new exhaust manifold if I don't have to.

Harbor freight sells a set of cheap s wrenches.

I'm with you on NOT buying parts if you don't have to. :) If there is a way to save the part I do so, even if it is cheap. :) Part of the fun is fixing it... quality being #1. :D That's a WIN ! :D I gotta go with the vise-grips, Blaster and heat though. Good luck on that. Be gentle but firm. There is always the Heli-Coil if need be.

You'll appreciate having a wrench available if you choose to bend one. I use mine every time. I work from the top whenever possible. Kinda like getting that bra out of the way so you can admire what you are working on.

Good Luck !! Enjoy the ride.
 
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