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2001 gtx overheating - previously stored for 8 years

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That's right .040" I'm a little bit lesdisctic.

Also what ski-d00 said is correct, if the ski doesn't overheat putting your hose on the inlet side, then it's the pump.

Lou
 
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i checked the wear ring and the propeller and all looks good. i took off the rear propulsion system to look in there. changed the jet pump oil while i was there.
 
to simulate in the water, all you have to do is disconnect the inlet line from the pump and connect your hose there. that way the cooling flow will be identical to when in the water and not going backwards as it normally is on the hose. depending on your hose water pressure, it will probably be close to pump pressure at idle.

I think Lou means .040" and not .004" above for impeller clearance.

Do I do this with or without the engine running?

I checked the clearance on the wear ring and that looks good. The ski only has 42 hours on it.
 
engine is always running when water is on. start engine, turn on water...turn off water, turn off engine.
 
Ok i hooked up the garden hose to the inlet pipe, started the motor, and turned on the hose and it still overheated after running for about 2 minutes? no water came out the pee holes. water did come out of the exhaust port on the back. any ideas? I am thinking there is corrosion in the coolant lines in the motor but that is really just a guess.
 
I think the next step would be to pull the head, you've got a blockage somewhere in the engine.

Lou
 
thanks. i am no mechanic but i believe that is where the blockage it too. sitting here right now looking through the manual regarding the cooling circuitry.
 
There is a elbow fitting in the cylinder head where the intake water hose connects. It is clogged there. (Seen it many times). Remove the hose and try to work a small wire up thru the fitting. Remove the temp sensor from the middle of the head and try to work the wire the other way. I usually clear this type of blockage without removing the head. Compressed air will help alot to.
 
There is a elbow fitting in the cylinder head where the intake water hose connects. It is clogged there. (Seen it many times). Remove the hose and try to work a small wire up thru the fitting. Remove the temp sensor from the middle of the head and try to work the wire the other way. I usually clear this type of blockage without removing the head. Compressed air will help alot to.

Good advice. I already did that and got out a bunch of gook but that didnt solve the problem.
 
my neighbor works at a marina and he had a chemical called IN & OUT (i think it is some form of acid) that we are going to pour into the temp sensor opening and see if that does not dissolve some of the suspected corrosion.
 
You know I was going to suggest something like that. There's an old trick to clean heater cores in cars using liquid draino, don't know how or if it would work in SeaDoo's. Used it in my wife's Taurus saved an $800.00 repair bill.

Lou
 
Listen to these guys. I got money that says the clog is in the head passage. Try a chemical soak of some kind. Keep using compressed air.
 
Got it! Fixed! Poured some acid chemical in the temp sensor opening carefully over the past 2 days and flushing it out. It just kept foaming and foaming. Then it started to take more and more of the acid until the last flush. we were flushing it through the inlet hose to simulate being in the water. i am putting it in the water tomorrow.

one last question, is there a plug that goes into the garden hose pipe sticking out the back for when the ski is running in the water?
 
no plug, that is a water exit when it is in the water.

OK thanks. Had it in the water yesterday for the first time since the acid bath and all went well. Thanks to everyone for there assistance.

To recap................I bought a 2001 Seadoo GTX with the 947 carb motor. It had been last used in 2002 and stored in a garage for 8 years. It only had 42 hours on it when I got it but the previous owner never flushed out the motor. So for 8 years it just sat and stewed. On the garden hose it did not overheat but when I put it in the water it overheated in 2 minutes. My neighbor works at a marina and brought home an acid that he called In & Out (IO.) We took out the temp sensor and inserted an 18 inch piece of clear tubing in that opening and poured in the IO. At first not much IO would go in but the tubing would fill up with foam from the acid eating away at the corrosion. We would flush the motor through the inlet hose to simulate the ski being in the water. We did the acid and flush over and over for a couple of days until the motor took a lot more acid and less foaming occured. After a while with the engine running and the hose on we could see water coming out the pee-holes and from another hose down below (I forget what that one went to.) We also could feel a noticeably lower difference in the cylinder head temp. So after about 2 hours in the water, life is good. Thanks again.
 
Update.............Update........................NOT GOOD.
Took the ski out this weekend. A friend was on my Seadoo. I was on another ski. Seadoo starting cutting off. We would wait and it would start again for a few minutes then die again. Finally it died and wouldnt start at all so we towed it back. Pulled it out of the water and took it home. Put in some new plugs and fired it up. Made a horrible metallic sound from one of the cylinders. Checked the spark and that was OK. Compression in #1 cylinder was 120 and #2 was 140. Pulled the new plugs out and #1 plug had a greasy coating on it and #2 plug was fine. A mechanic neighbor came over and said it looks like a wrist pin could have been corroded and not let the piston move freely in the cylinder causing potential cylinder damage. Pulling the motor apart this weekend to see what is going on.
 
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