2000 Seadoo GTI carb issues

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2000 GTI with the 717 and single carb. I pulled the carb to clean/rebuild about 3 weeks ago and have been chasing demons ever since.

The initial issue, if ski sat over night or longer periods of time it needed a bump of ether or a whole lot of cranking to get it to fire over. After initial startup it was good. If you shut it down after it warmed up it would start right up but would bog out of the hole initially and then it was fine again. So I finally decided to pull the carb.

It is nearly impossible to find genuine mikuni parts at the moment so a Vertex kit was recommended by my supplier. Surprisingly the carb was not super dirty. Little bit of krud in the usually places, cleaned all the internal components reassembled and to the water I went. After the initial startup I was pumped then 10 seconds later it fell on its face. No top speed max 20mph and was bogging down. I could pull a 1/4 choke and back on plane it went, full throttle, no bogging anywhere. Choke plate was closed 1/4-1/2 shut, hard to tell exact but if airflow was restricted it acts like it's suppose to. I have pulled the carb back apart 3 times now, first time making sure when I reassembled trash didn't get in somewhere. Second time I rechecked the popoff pressure. Third time I reinstalled all usable gaskets/springs/and diaphragms from pre-build. I did initially pull the accelerator pump apart when building to clean it out. Initial settings for the carb are 1 low and 0 high. 36/40 popoff. I replaced all the fuel lines when doing the rebuild to 1/4" auto line. I'm stumped, I didn't do anything other than remove and replace the carb. Any places where sealant should or shouldn't be placed to prevent air leaks. No mention of sealants in the shop manual I have.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
It won't work without a Genuine Mikuni kit and new needle and seat.
Try OSD seadoo.
 
It won't work without a Genuine Mikuni kit and new needle and seat.
Try OSD seadoo.
That is the motto of every carb topic on here, but in current times they are getting hard to come by. Price point isn't much different between a good aftermarket and the mikuni so I have no issues buying mikuni. I do have one on the way after I fought this carb several times now with no success. as it stands now carb 3 me 0. Does anyone use sealants around base gaskets or other gaskets to make sure it doesnt leak air?
 
I use a very thin smear of ThreeBone 1211 on the base gaskets, A little 518 on the metal airbox base to carb flange like the factory did and that is about it. Loctite on the bolts and nuts. Everything on the carbs themselves go on dry with no thread lock.
 
I use a very thin smear of ThreeBone 1211 on the base gaskets, A little 518 on the metal airbox base to carb flange like the factory did and that is about it. Loctite on the bolts and nuts. Everything on the carbs themselves go on dry with no thread lock.
Hopefully the mikuni carb kit fixes my issues but I'm a little skeptical, I've never had any issues on anything using Vertex. But those werent skis! 518 is just anaerobic gasket, can't say I've ever heard of 1211 but I'll give it a quick search. According to shipping it will be nearly 2 weeks before I get my replacement parts. So I'll update once I swap them out.
 
Update! I haven't water tested the machine yet, but I rebuilt the carb for the third time now with a mikuni kit. I compared the components from the vertex to the mikuni. All the gaskets and diaphragms appear to be identical. The only major difference that I found was with the metering block flap. The vertex is 2-3 times stiffer than the mikuni. Which my assumption is that this is restricting fuel flow for the topend and causing it to starve for fuel. I will up date completely tomorrow when I water test and adjust.

Can anyone think of why the baseline tuning for high speed jet is 0. That seems absurd to me. What does it gain or lose if this is opened up any, 1/4-1/2 turn?
 
Mikuni carb kits are a must, probably could get away with gaskets from another kit but the internal components diaphragms, check valves and other working components need to be mikuni. On other stuff I've never had an issue with Vertex but on skis I don't think they have all the right specs dialed in.

Ski is running as close to perfect as a 21 year old ski can run.
 
Glad you got it fixed.

The HS screw is closed on theses because the combination of the main jet size and needle size provide all the fuel the engine needs.
 
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