JoeStetor1
Member
I cannot find anything on the net about how to change the oil in the Rotax 720.
Can someone please help?
Can someone please help?
2000 Sea-Doo gts oil change
- Thread starter JoeStetor1
- Start date
- Status
Wow, it's a 2 stroke, no need to change the oil. And since there are so many threads on oil, and having raced LTD 800, at Havasu, buy the cheapest coloured synthetic oil, and you will not have an oil induced failure, and the coloured oil will make it easier to find oil leaks.
JoeStetor1
Member
So there is no oil for the crank case?
It is great you have not had any oil related failures.
The correct oil for the Seadoo's is API-TC rated oil, not "The cheapest synthetic oil you can find". Please don't tell people to run oil that is not approver for their skis.
To the OP, your ski does not require synthetic oil.
Good approved oils for your ski are Seadoo Carb 2T, Lucas Semi Synthetic 2-Cycle (not the Land & Sea), Mystic.
JoeStetor1
Member
I am using this for the injection oil.
Attachments
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
That oil is fine, although you are fine to use the “Carb 2T” oil in that ski. The synthetic is a better oil, but it’s not necessary in the non-rave motors, and the mineral oil is less expensive. The bottle looks like this:
Also, no, there is no crankcase oil in a two-stroke engine.
JoeStetor1
Member
I bought this ski off someone. It had old gas in it. I rode it and it ran good for the short ride I took. When I got it home I took it out and it started bogging after a few seconds at full throttle. I put new fuel lines on it. Drained gas. Changed gas and oil filter. Put inline fuel filter right before the original filter. Cleaned carb (which wasn't really dirty besides the carb filter). I killed the starter trying to get the gas through the lines. Changed the starter and dumped premix in carb to get started. The battery was low so I jumped it with an suv while running (I know know not to do that). I got it started took it out and it boggs about half throttle and dies. checked fuses. They are good. Do you think I damaged anything? This is where I am at. I'm charging the battery over night. It was at 50% when I got the ski home.
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
The first thing to do is get rid of that inline filter! Take your reserve fuel line and run it to the carb inlet to bypass the filter and selector valve. If it runs good with everything bypassed, you’ve got a problem in either the filter or selector switch. If the problem is still there, you need to go back through the carbs again and rebuild with genuine Mikuni parts and new needles/seats...
JoeStetor1
Member
When I take the reserve off the selector switch, does the selector switch need to be turned off?
When I disconnect the fuel line to carb to attach reserve line to carb, does the main fuel line need capped off?
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
You can turn the selector off and you can plug the line going to the carb. This is just temporary, so don’t overthink it too much. You just want to find out if the problem is delivery or carburetor...
JoeStetor1
Member
That's what I figured. Thank you. I'll be in touch tomorrow to let you know what happens.
JoeStetor1
Member
Ran reserve line straight from tank. Selector switch off and plugged other fuel line. Still bogs on acceleration. Do you have a part number for the carb rebuild kit I need?
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
He may be closed for a vacation at the moment, but I’d call OSD and ask about the carb kit. He lists a kit for the 97 and 98, but the 99 and 2000 are not listed for whatever reason. I’m not familiar enough with your particular carb setup to tell you what the difference is there. If you’re trying to get it on the water sooner than that, give Nick or Jess at Westside Powersports a call, as they keep OEM parts in stock as well...
JoeStetor1
Member
Thank you. I'll keep you posted.
JoeStetor1
Member
I took carb apart and am soaking it in a cleaner while I wait for the rebuild kit. I took the smaller hoses off the carb and found something inside the shorter hose. Is this supposed to be in there?
Attachments
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
No, I don’t believe that’s normal. I’m not super familiar with your particular model, but I’ve never seen anything like that on any of my skis...
JoeStetor1
Member
It was in the line about an inch or so. I actually had to pry it out of the hose. At first I thought it was the end of the nipple that the hose connects to but they all where intact. I found it by trying to blow air throw the line and it seemed restricted. Then i inserted a small screw driver through the hose and it stopped at the obstruction.
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I’m honestly not sure what that is or why it’s there...
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
Good to know! I don’t have anything with an accelerator pump, so I hadn’t run into that one. To be honest I thought we were talking about the line between the outlet of the mag carb and the inlet on the pto one...
JoeStetor1
Member
What way does the jet flow? I am going to reinstall the accelerator line.
JoeStetor1
Member
Also. How do adjust the H and L on the carb?
JJinSC
Well-Known Member
The jet should be inserted into the hose at a-pump end. Press small end in first.
There is a carb rebuild thread on the forum that will explain with pics what the parts of the carbs are including the LS and HS adjustments. Search for it and read it. It is a great source for understanding these carbs.
There is a carb rebuild thread on the forum that will explain with pics what the parts of the carbs are including the LS and HS adjustments. Search for it and read it. It is a great source for understanding these carbs.
JoeStetor1
Member
I rebuilt the carb with genuine mikuni kit. I put the jet in the hose small end first on the pump end. I adjusted the H side to 0 and the L side to 1 like it calls for. Gray hoses changed one at a time. Empied old gas and added new with seafoam. Changed 2 cycle oil also. Still boggs on acceleration. I adjusted the High and low separately 1/4 turns in both directions. Nothing changed. Im at odds now.
- Status
Similar threads
