2000 GTX RFI - Old Oil / Gas problems starting

[surpluseller]

I have a 2000 GTX that has not been run in several years. I removed the fuel tank, cleaned the tank, replaced the pump and filters. replaced the fuel line from the tank to the engine. I also removed the oil tank and cleaned it. I have not reinstalled the oil tank. I have premixed oil in the fuel tank. I thought the starter was bad so i replaced the starter. The plugs are firing and the engine will spin when the plugs are not in. I spun the starter with the plugs out to push any old fuel and oil out of the spark plug holes. The engine will only spin a few times with the plugs installed and then it binds. The engine will spin continuously without the plugs, but binds with the plugs installed. I am trying to access if this ski is worth continuing to work on to bring it back. I was getting a lot of slimy old gas / oil out of the spark plug holes when i first started, and i seem to still be getting a bit of this currently. Any guidance will be appreciated. The best compression reading i can get is 130 psi on each cylinder, but I am having a tough time getting a reading due to to oily residue i keep getting out of the cylinders. What can i do to clean the fuel system and get rid of the old oily mess in the fuel system?

 

[mikidymac]

First get that gas out. You can't premix an injected ski as it will damage the injectors.
Next it sounds like your inner crank seals have a small leak and from sitting so long some oil has seeped into the crank case.

You need to get more of the oil out before it will fire. Keep cranking it with the plugs out and even put your thumb over the hole to build some pressure to push it out. Give the starter breaks to cool off and you might have to recharge the battery a couple times. Once you think you got most of it out put a little premix down each plug hole and see if it will pop. You might have to repeat this a few times. The hard part is getting the oil out.

In addition what fuel pump did you get. Most of the aftermarket ones are crap and won't work out of the box.

 

[surpluseller]

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bosch-electrical-fuel-pump-kit-69223/20770241-P?cm_mmc=ET-_-Trans-_-Shipped-_-General#utm_source=et&utm_medium=trans&utm_campaign=shipped&utm_content=general

This is the Bosch*fuel pump i replaced the old pump with. I found where someone else on here used this pump in a similar situation. I am going to get the pre-mix out of the tank and re fill with straight 93 octane non ethanol, and re-install the oil tank. I am also going to keep spinning the engine without the gas and oil connected to see if i can get all the old stuff out. Thanks for the advice, I just wanted to be sure I was on the right track. I will report back as I progress.

 

[surpluseller]

Thanks for the advise. I continued spinning the engine with the plugs out. I re-installed the oil tank, and fuel tank, after a lot of spinning oil out of the plug holes I filled the oil tank, and fuel tank, and put a dropper of pre-mixed fuel in each plug hole and installed the plugs and the engine started, it sputtered a good bit to start and made a lot of white smoke, but it started. I let it run a minute and killed it, it wouldn't restart on its own. a while later I re primed it with premix and it started again. I let it run a minute or so and killed it, now it will start on its own. The next day I connected the hose and started the engine and turned on the water. Two bolts on top of the head had been loosened by someone prior had water come out of them. I cut the water and tightened the two bolts and restarted on the hose. The engine will not hold and idle, but will continue to run if I give it some gas. After all of this I did a compression check since the abundance of oil is no longer an issue, and I got 145 psi on each cylinder. I am sure I need a set of new plugs, any thoughts as to what direction I need to go? I assume the two head bolts that were loose need to be reinstalled with lock tight.

 

[mikidymac]

I would pull the head and replace the o-rings and seal and torque the head bolts per the manual. Fingers crossed you will be good to go.

 

[surpluseller]

I want to be sure I am ordering the correct parts. Is everything I need to pull the head and included in this kit, and thank you again for all the advice!!

 

[mikidymac]

I typically replace the water jacket, head shell and spark plug o-rings too but I think the only mandatory ones are in the kit you posted.

 

[surpluseller]

I found a more comprehensive kit. I am sure it is needed since this ski has been neglected for five years or longer. Thanks

 

[mikidymac]

That is the one I would get as it also comes with the RAVE gaskets. If you haven't cleaned them now is the time too.

 

[surpluseller]

got it, i pulled one of the RAVE valves off this afternoon and it was oily and has some buildup on it. I will get them both out and cleaned - parts are ordered and on the way. Thanks again.

 

[surpluseller]

I cleaned the RAVE valves, inside and out. Pulled the head and water jacket, replaced the spark plug o-rings, and all the gaskets, replaced and torqued the bolts per the manual. I also replaced the spark plugs and went to my local dealer and purchased a new key because the one i had was in rough shape and only worked on occasion. The ski will crank, but runs very rough, and is throwing a PO336 Crank position sensor - wrong RPM detected code. I removed the crank position sensor, to see if it had debris on it. It was clean. I did some reading and my understanding is a rough running / misfiring engine can cause the PO336 code to show up. My thought is due to the gunk that was in the fuel tank, and pump i could have fouled injectors. Let me know if anyone has any thoughts what could be causing this rough running condition or PO336 code. Thanks