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2000 GTX RFI coming out of Storage after 5 years

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GTX RFI

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Hi Everyone,

I am going to get my 2000 GTX RFI out of storage this weekend and wanted some advice on the things i should do to ensure a happy ending. Things i know that i must do is drain the gas, new battery, but i am not sure on if the throttle body needs to be clean, if spraying oil down the cylinders is helpful, use seafoam or not. What are some main things to look for regarding leaks, grease or anything that could go wrong.

Looking forward to any advice.

Chris
 
Compression test for certain. Best to inspect the various hoses or replace. Also fuel filters on pump - two of them. Pull the injectors and test. Look for the post from Grizz - The RFI (Rotax Fuel Injection ) Spot. Lot's of good info for us RFI owner.
 
I would spray all the linkage with a lube, spray some oil into the cylinder, remove the major connects (wires) clean them and put them back on with dielectric grease. Turn the engine over by hand with the plugs out.

I wouldn't use Seafoam as it will remove oil and allow for a less lubrication concern. And do NOT put Seafoam in the fuel as it will dilute the oil to the cylinders that comes with the premix.. Additives and two-strokes don't play well together..
 
Thanks PGHMAN and Coastiejoe. I will read the post from Grizz do you think cleaning the injectors is a high priority? If so what cleaner do you recommend.
 
You may be forced to. But I would try to get it running with the least amount of work just so you know it runs. My point is, if you do a half a dozen things and it does not run, where do you start. Once it is running, then I would suggest going nuts and getting it all up to date and running well.
 
I think it should be good for the most part, I had it winterized but that doesn't mean seals haven't dried out, i just went through the microfiche for the fuel system i don't see fuel filters where are they located?
 
what i would do ... first get a new battery and charge for 2 days, then, in mean time, i would pull spark plugs, put at least 2 - 3 tablespoons of new (yellow jug) seadoo oil in both cylinders, turn over engine by hand, take out fuel rail, take out fuel pump assembly, get rid of all fuel (i'm sure it is varnish) , clean fuel rail out, chances are those are original injectors, so replacing both would be my choice, also fuel pump and 2 screens, so for under 200.00 your fuel issues are solved, replace oil filter, drain out oil tank and install new filter, along with 1 1/2 gal of seadoo yellow jug oil, replace both oil lines from oil pump to nozzles, it takes 3/32 inside diameter tygon hose, sold at any good lawnmower shop, take and unplug all wiring connectors, put some dielectric grease and plug back in, grease pto fitting , actually change the pump oil also, or at least check it and make sure its full and clean and no water in it, clean main ground where ground cable goes to engine, and grounds on the front mag cover ...
 
Hey Everyone,

Thanks for the advice i have the gas removed and hand cranked and socked the walls with fogging oil and cranked it over several times with hand and also starter with new battery installed. It was tuff moving the first time but is really loss now and sounds/feels good. I am going to let it sit over night before i try and start it tomorrow. I notice today two things today. One the wires on the speedometer look like they have been rubbing on something and are exposed is this normal and also one injector wires for nozzle 2 (PTO) also show wear and have exposed wires. I really can't see anything in either case that would indicate rubbing. Second thing my one key does not work will not make the two beeping noises i remember having troubles with it prior to storage is that due to programing or just worn out?
 
Try cleaning up the key and post with a pencil eraser. That has worked for me when my key stopped working.

Mike
 
Hey So today didn't go so well. I listen to a deal and was told not to worry about the filter at the bottom of the pump assembly as they never change them. So I drain all the bad fuel out as much as i could and placed new premium in the tank. All to find out that fuel pump is done so i had to pull the pump assembly anyways which i am kind of ticked about as i could have gotten all the fuel had i just stuck to my original plan. Griz i read your post and you talked about someone that gave you the bosh part number for the pump. Do you have it? I am in Canada and the link i found only provider their part number not the Bosh part number. I am also going to order the injectors this week as well. The gtx has 105 hours and i see you are suppose to clean them anyways at 100. Should have listen and did a full clean
 
Thanks Jammin, I just order the 120 package with the regulator and filters, did you change out your regulator as well? For the Injectors i am not sure how to make sure I am ordering the correct ones also do new injectors come with the o ring seal? I saw on a other post they talked about these are the same for mustang 5.0 is that correct?
 
Thanks Jammin,

I just order the fuel injectors from fiveomotorsport. I really didn't want to take a chance especially from reading the post from Griz400 that stated he lost two engines due to them. I figure it is best to have two sets and I will send out the original ones to be cleaned and tested and rotate them every 100 hours. Is that something you do? Also since i have been reading on this form now for a week straight everyone also seems to lose a engine to the oil in the counter balance. I check mine the other day by just placing a red stick from a spray can down and it is solid black. Is there anything i should do regarding this before starting up the engine?
 
there should be a drain plug below the counter balance fill plug, i think it holds 6oz of 30 wt oil but refer to the service manual to make sure.
 
Hey Guys, I finally got around to work on my GTX today replaced the fuel pump and filters thanks Jammin for the link to ebay it seems to be working well there is fuel in the lines that is for sure. I bought the injectors but i was being lazy and didn't take them out today. I was hoping it was going to start it almost did but nothing. I fouled the plugs there seems to be a lot of fuel coming into the cylinders so tomorrow i will buy new plugs and change out the injectors just to be on the safe side and since i have them. How hard is it to remove them and is there a diagram that you use? or special tools? I saw in a previous post Jammin you mention a mirror did you require one? I also lost one nut off the sending unit. it went down the outside of the gas tank and i can't find it. So i will have to order one from Sea doo.
 
yes definitely replace those injectors, may have a bunch of varnish build up causing them to stick open. unplug the wire plugs from the injectors (has a spring loaded clip that needs to be depressed then pull) and then remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold the fuel rail to the cylinder jugs then pull the fuel rail away from the engine. i find it easier to stand on the opposite side of ski while removing the injectors but thats me. a mirror is very helpful to see what you're doing other than that no special tools just a 1/4" drive ratchet and 10mm socket. just make sure and clean the fuel rail.
 
Hey Jammin and Griz. I replaced the injectors today and new plugs and it fired up right away. Ran it about 1 to 2 mins. It idle at 1550rpm so i will take it down to the boat lunch this week to see how it makes out in water and just putt around on it to make sure everything is good. Do you think changing the jet pump oil or checking is worth doing? I know the dealer would have checked it and put new stuff in the last time it was serviced but wasn't sure. Thanks for all your help and advice you both made it really fun and easy to track down the right parts. One thing i noticed about the injectors that i bought from Fiveo they have treads on them and are not smooth like the originals.
 
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