2000 GTX Millennium Edition 947 DI - Timing - HELP ME PLEASE!!

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XARiUS

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:chillpill:

So I have Sea Doo Problems... I own 3, 2 run awesome (717's) but I also have this 2000 ME DI GTX. But this GTX DI has been a royal PITA but I like it and want it to run again.

So in 2014 she took on some water and I had to change the stator. Keep in mind that it ran just fine but with a constant +12v low warning. So I finally got sick of charging it and decided to do something about it. I changed the stator but in the process has to remove the magneto cup and flywheel because they were completely rusted out. So now i have purchased a new flywheel and magneto cup but cannot seem to get the timing correct. Is there a timing procedure on a 947 DI? I dont see any distinguishing marks or anything that I can use to make sure the magneto cup is on properly.

All its doing is cranking and an occasional backfire (which i know isnt good but means that im getting fuel). I sheered 2 woodruff keys already from backfires but this motor was freshly rebuilt and I would like to let this baby run again. Can anyone tell me if the magneto cup matters on these and if there are any other reasons it would backfire??
 
There is no timing per say on a di. You do need to make sure the magneto cup is positioned correctly, and it the correct for your version of di. There are two versions. The one has a cast water fitting and the other has a threaded nipple on the head for your water. If you have the cast version, I can take a picture of the flywheel and cup as I have one off my 02 di. I am working on two of them... hoping to get my engine rebuilt before the snow.
 
Thanks for the quick reply tkarvelis. Here are some photos of mine, my brother took them apart not thinking we would run into this much of an issue (I know right...) Anyway, here is my current situation. Any help on putting humpy-dumpty back together again would be appreciated. Lol...seriously, its like a Jig-Saw puzzle.

Good luck on your project, same goal here.
 

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If you place the gear with the keyway at 12 o'clock, mine has 5 narrow pins on the right side starting at 2 o'clock, and ending at 4 o'clock. I don't think the other ring matters as that is for charging.
 
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Are you sure you have the plug and injector wires in the correct position?

I did when I last attempted but just took the motor out of the hull to make sure the crank wasn't twisted or something. The backfire ruined the 1st replacement flywheel i put on so I wanted to make sure the woodruff key hole wasn't tweaked or something. That all seems to check out fine just dont think I had something lined up right. Before we started this project like I said, it ran but with a constant 12 volt low and no charging system. Now i am here.
 
You don't need to pull the motor out to do that. Take something and put it down each plug hole, or in a DI case, the injector hole, and see if top dead center is the same. If the crank twisted, they won't match.
 
You don't need to pull the motor out to do that. Take something and put it down each plug hole, or in a DI case, the injector hole, and see if top dead center is the same. If the crank twisted, they won't match.

Yeah, too late its already out :( I thought i was replacing the crank, so thats why its out, but upon further investigation found it does not appear to be bad.
 
Ok, so you have to rebuild the whole thing... don't forget you need to align it when you put then engine in
 
What you mean rebuild the whole thing??? Im hoping to put this sucker back on, throw the motor back in, test it, then align it. I purchased an alignment tool on my 1st project, so im good on that front. Just have little experience with this motor, im a big fan of the 717's but they just dont have the power this 947 got.

Which confuses me... why is it 947cc but referred to 951.
 
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oh, glad i didnt. Just have the motor out everything should be pretty easy to hook back up. So a pressure test is required when splitting the cases? I did not remove the fuel rail from the fuel lines or anything so i should be able to just drop it in hook it up and keep my fingers crossed right? Thanks for the photos i got the magneto and all aligned just like yours. 02 and 00's the same?
 
2002 DI's and up are slightly different. Sea Doo changed the opening and closing times of the injectors, therefore the spark timing would be slightly different. Air injectors although look the same are slightly different and will not run well in earlier/later models. Emissions, fuel efficiency and EPA are the reasons.

Your flywheel should have a locating pin to insure correct timing. If that is correct then I would question the year model replacement flywheel. It is a good thing to never separate the mag cup and flywheel as it is just a magnet, but if you did then make sure the correct parts go together.

So basically after boring you, I would make sure your replacement flywheel assembly is in fact from a 2000/2001 DI engine.
 
2002 DI's and up are slightly different. Sea Doo changed the opening and closing times of the injectors, therefore the spark timing would be slightly different. Air injectors although look the same are slightly different and will not run well in earlier/later models. Emissions, fuel efficiency and EPA are the reasons.

Your flywheel should have a locating pin to insure correct timing. If that is correct then I would question the year model replacement flywheel. It is a good thing to never separate the mag cup and flywheel as it is just a magnet, but if you did then make sure the correct parts go together.

So basically after boring you, I would make sure your replacement flywheel assembly is in fact from a 2000/2001 DI engine.

Thanks for the info JhJesse... I ended up using the original flywheel and ring gear or whatever it is. The only thing different at this point in the magneto cup, the original one is pretty beat up as my brother scored it pretty good when attempting to get it out in the first place, when all that needed changed was indeed the stator. These cups look identical, they even have the same numbers on them. I aligned it based on the photos seen here and a few on eBay. Hopefully I can get it running this weekend, we shall see.

So does the positioning of this magneto cup matter or just making sure it is the proper part?
 
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So after taking jhjesses advice and looking at the reed valves I found this in cyl 1 (closest to mag) any ideas on what it could be?

Its rubbery and could be some kind of seal, but for what? and how'd it get on the other side of the reed valves?
 

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So after taking jhjesses advice and looking at the reed valves I found this in cyl 1 (closest to mag) any ideas on what it could be?

Its rubbery and could be some kind of seal, but for what? and how'd it get on the other side of the reed valves?

So that was inside the reed valve...hmmm. Not sure what it is or where it came from, but it would definitely have an effect it running correctly. Good catch.
 
Yep, needless to say I got it put back in the hull, used the seadoo manual found here to make sure all hoses were correct. Turns out one of the vacuum lines melted I am assuming from the exhaust, replaced that, Aligned the shaft (fit like a glove) and WHAM! shes alive again.

Tomorrow will be the float test to make sure she's sea worthy. :lol:

Thanks again to the guys who assisted me in this, you both were a huge help. :cheers:

For others reading this thread, the mag cup on GTX DI's models has no specific alignment, however I lined mine up to match the photos tkarvelis posted by matching up the engravings on the cup to the teeth. :thumbsup:
 
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