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2000 GTX DI Runs Bad.

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PWCGUYWI

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Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum and just bought my first fuel injected Seadoo. It a 2000 GTX with 951 DI engine, the thing runs pretty good out of the water but in the water not so much lol.

It will idle nicely out to the no wake zone then when I go to take off it stumbles and bogs while trying to get on plane. When I first when to take off it had good power for about 15seconds then it started to slip or cavitate. I limped it onto plane but it would only get up to about 3800 rpms then it bogged and died. I had a heck of time getting it to restart then I just idled it in to shore where it died two more times before I got to the ramp.

Before I took it out I drained the old gas put new plugs in it and got a new battery.

I can rebuild carbs all day but I know zero about these so please help!

I'm hoping it's a fuel pressure regulator or a tps but again I know zero and don't want to start throwing money at it.

Compression on both cylinders were 130lbs and my gauge has been know to read low.

Thank you for any help!
 
Hello. The biggest thing with the DI platform is fuel pressure. From what you are describing it seems like you have low pressure. You will need to get or make a fuel pressure gauge that is capable of reading up above 100 psi.

On the seadoo DI the required pressure to run the engine is 107 psi. This is a MUST. Even say 102 psi will cause issues.

The magic 107 psi comes from two components. First is the fuel pump - 27 psi. The second the air compressor -80 psi. When you first insert the key you should hear the pump prime and with your fuel gauge installed you should see 27 psi. Then when cranking the 107.

The cavitation sounds like a different issue. Check the pump and wear ring for excessive wear or damage.

I'm sure some others will chime in as well. Let me know when you get a fuel pressure gauge and I can help more.
 
As long as the gauge reads over 100 psi it will work. You need to put the gauge in the line before the fuel rail. If you T into the line be sure you use high pressure line and proper clamps. 107 psi is very high and we don't want any accidents when dealing with the fuel at these pressures. If you can find some of the high pressure line with the fittings on them you can make a gauge that will fit into the existing fuel line fittings. (This way you don't have to cut the line, although you can)
 
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Ok, at first I was thinking there would be a Schrader valve somewhere on the fuel system to connect an automotive style tester to. Thank you for all your help I will try and get some numbers today.
 
No valves on this system. I will try to take a pic of my fuel tester later or just do a search on this site for do fuel pressure tester. You will find some pics of what I am talking about.
 
Thank you for all the information...I finally made a T and checked the pressure. I have 25-26lbs with the key on and 106lbs while running I'm guess my gauge is reading low. I dropped the retainer for the fuel line into the hull and had to disassemble the exhaust to get it out, while I had it out I found a bunch of melted vacuum lines. I repaired those
put everything back together and it still has no power
 
I suggest you:
1. Attach a volt meter to your battery, start the engine and rev to 4000rpms. You should see 13.5 to 14.2vdc. Anything lower or exceptionally higher replace the rectifier. I have had a couple DI's that had bad rectifiers but never threw a code or maint light.
2. Remove your water control valve. Take it apart and check the diaphram. Probably has a hole in it and will need replaced. Hence the hot exhaust and loss of rpms.
3. Pull you fuel pump and replace both the fuel strainers on the pump.
4. Cut that very expensive external fuel filter out and replace with a wix 33095 and two stainless steel hose clamps.
5. Remove the rave valves, clean and rebuild. Install lanyard crank ski then shut off with stop button while listening for two cycles of the rave solenoid. In not, replace solenoid.

Take it to the lake and test run it, then report back.
 
PWCGUYWI said:
The filter took care of my problems!
Click to expand...

Very good to hear. I still suggest doing the maintenance above if you have not already. Especially cleaning the raves.

I have also used this filter for about a season on two skis with good results. No issues as of yet.
 
Nice, my ski has done 100hrs now and the paint over the rave valves has never been broken is it worth taking them apart and cleaning them?
 
jamiepdavies said:
Nice, my ski has done 100hrs now and the paint over the rave valves has never been broken is it worth taking them apart and cleaning them?
Click to expand...

Even though the cycling of the rave valves when the ski is shut off will lengthen the time between cleaning, I would go ahead and pull them, clean them and rebuild them.
 
leetudor said:
Will the hose clamps hold with that amount of fuel pressure? I need to replace my fuel filter.
Click to expand...
I have owned 4 DI's for the last several years. I have done this to all of them with no problems. I just change the filter every other year.
 
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