2000 GTX DI Millennium flooded now with maint light

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

brybo86

New Member
295 hours on seadoo, has been great other than occasional plugs, amsoil TCW3 it's entire life.

Long story but here are the important parts.

Kids flipped the seadoo and didn't know how to flip it right side up and swam it back to the shore.

Was upside down for at least 20mins.

I was not present for this but after flipping the machine was put on the lift, "Engine bay was "mostly full" then drained out.

spark plugs removed and water cranked out of the cylinders.

after this plugs were put back in 1 bottle of red HEET added to fuel tank and then started it up.

according to my relative, the seadoo drove normally, good power for approx 5-10 minutes then went into limp/MAINT mode

it was parked for a week before i got to drive it. It would run fine under 1/2 throttle but at about 4800rpm it would flash maint and drop down to 1500rpm

opened it up and noticed the black box near battery containing coils was full of water.

I Drained out and removed everything from the box, removed corrosion, wd 40 the connections and put back together.

After this the issue somewhat improved, I could get to approx 85% throttle if I squeezed it gradually. I got the RPM up to 6500 a few times.

I would say the power from 0-85% throttle seems normal.

I've read about the rectifier and tested the machine in water with me riding backwards and holding a multimeter to the battery terminals up to 5000rpm or so, never above 13.6 V

If I squeezed the throttle to 100% from idle it would hit maint mode but never showed high voltage.

I feel there is still some intermittent electrical issues.

The rear TPS sensor gasket was slightly deformed and probably let some water past.

I do not have access to a buds or candoo.

What else should I try to dry out or clean? Other common places to check for water presence?

Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
It is possible water got into the fuel pump,,,which have metal vanes that like to corrode and consequently use more amps which can throw it into limp mode,,,,you may have water sitting at the bottom of the tank…i Would pull the rail,,,check for water,,,as well…check that the rail is injecting,,,do a fuel pump pressure test,just some ideas,,,check the compression,,,pull the rav valves and see if they are water logged,,,DI‘s are tuff to diagnose on a good day let alone a fully submerged one,
 
I would describe the feeling of the engine when it hits maint mode as a misfire, like it's running on one cylinder.
 
Last edited:
I would describe the feeling of the engine when it hits maint mode as a misfire, like it's running of one cylinder.
A CanDoo would be the best bet to avoid throwing parts at it. Given the coil box was full of water, and you think it is misfiring, replacing both coils might be a good item to try.
 
Ski was used yesterday and today I pulled the plugs.
They were at stock .040 ish
I set them to .023


Rear plug looked ok with a tiny bit of moisture but the front plug looked like this?
lots of water right?
PXL_20220730_142419928.jpg

I added a half tank of fuel with some seafoam and some berrymans B12...

Before i buy parts if I flip swap coils on cylinders and the water on plug switches to the rear plug then probably the coil is shot right?
 
Last edited:
Smell that liquid on the plug. Raw gas will have a distinctive smell. I’ve never seen gas bead up on the plug like that, so it looks like water. Water + oil on plug = waxed car effect.
I think you really need to completely empty and dry the fuel tank regardless of weather you also have a spark issue. Add fresh fuel back in. Products such as HEET are designed to bond the water to the fuel so it will be slowly pulled out of the tank and burned with everything else. It can’t make the water disappear, and will still cause running issues if there is too much water in the tank.
 
Smell that liquid on the plug. Raw gas will have a distinctive smell. I’ve never seen gas bead up on the plug like that, so it looks like water. Water + oil on plug = waxed car effect.
I think you really need to completely empty and dry the fuel tank regardless of weather you also have a spark issue. Add fresh fuel back in. Products such as HEET are designed to bond the water to the fuel so it will be slowly pulled out of the tank and burned with everything else. It can’t make the water disappear, and will still cause running issues if there is too much water in the tank.
It is definitely water on the plug.
I've never pulled the fuel pump out of tank, can It be done without disconnecting the fuel lines going to the DI injectors? I don't have that special tool.
I can try to remove the pump enough to siphon out fuel and put a clean rag down to sop up and remaining liquid.
 
Is the suction from fuel pump constant or is it increased with throttle application?
If there were an inch of water at the bottom of tank... Would it only be sucked up with increased throttle?
 
I completely dried the tank out by hand.
New ethanol free premium 5 gallon plus a bottle of iso heet. Drove for 30mins. Same issue, once throttle is squeezed past 3/4 it triggers maint mode flashing light.

I tried driving with rectifier unplugged, both red/black and 3 yellow.... Ski was limited to 4700 rpm at WOT but did not flash MAINT mode even after holding throttle at WOT for 30 seconds straight

Now I'm leaning towards a bad TPS sensor

Even if I get a new one, is a candoo/buds still needed to reprogram?

Or can I slightly adjust and use trial and error?
 
Last edited:
Glad you got the tank cleaned out. Sucks it doesn’t run better, but needed to be done regardless since you had water on the plug.

Hopefully someone more familiar with the computer system on the ski can pitch in. Maybe an easy way to read codes? You can get lucky shotgunning parts, or you can end up spending a fortune and still not fix it.
Just my 2 cents.
 
Do you intend to keep this PWC for a long time? If so, I'd say it's worth the $400 investment in CanDooPro to troubleshoot this issue.
 
Do you intend to keep this PWC for a long time? If so, I'd say it's worth the $400 investment in CanDooPro to troubleshoot this issue.
I think so?
Only other issues are leaking oil tank when over half full and speedo doesn't work.

I read in another forum that "the way low fuel pressure will not trip a MAINT condition."

So a candoo is no help if it is a fuel issue?

So that leaves me with coils/rectifier/injection.

Is there a way to clean the air injectors? Possible they are still clogged with water after an entire tank of fuel has been run through the engine?
Anyone here had plugged air injectors, how did the ski run?

Also would it be a bad idea to remove the plug wire from a single cylinder at a time and see how it runs?
 
Last edited:
Replace the oil tank with a seamless. It's worth it to prevent the mess that results when oil leaks through the cracked seams. It's time-consuming but not that difficult on the GTX. There's a few eBay listings for the seamless oil tank.

If speedo doesn't work, it's probably the little paddlewheel pickup. I'm planning to install a CanDoo GPS speedometer, since the little paddlewheel pickup doesn't work at low speeds anyway.
 
External voltmeter connected to battery with 4ft wires then temp mounted where I could see it.

while driving it showed 12.5 for a few seconds at start but then displayed a solid 13.0 to 13.1 with varying throttle application and load including hitting "maint" / limp mode many times.
 
I think so?
Only other issues are leaking oil tank when over half full and speedo doesn't work.

I read in another forum that "the way low fuel pressure will not trip a MAINT condition."

So a candoo is no help if it is a fuel issue?

So that leaves me with coils/rectifier/injection.

Is there a way to clean the air injectors? Possible they are still clogged with water after an entire tank of fuel has been run through the engine?
Anyone here had plugged air injectors, how did the ski run?

Also would it be a bad idea to remove the plug wire from a single cylinder at a time and see how it runs?
I had an air injector go bad and it was blowing fuses and it would not run hardly and I think it coded, but this was 18 years ago ,
 
I found a little bit of water on the two electric plugs that exit the rear of the rear electric box near battery. (I had wd40'd these connections a few weeks ago)
One looked like it comes from the 25 amp fuse. And the other not sure (MPEM?)

I dried and reconnnected them many times with a paper towel and my issue has improved significantly!

I am now able to hit an indicated 6860rpm at 95% throttle before tripping maint light.

I will get a can of DeoxIT and compressed air, dielectric grease to really clean these up.

Hope that's it

Also forgot how nice this ski sounds at high rpm ;)
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top