1999 seadoo GTX LTD oil pump

[Txjames]

This is my first time to post, and I'm new to PWC, so bare with me. I bought this a week or so ago. I was able to take a short test drive, and it started and ran really well, but 5 minutes into it the steering cable snapped where it goes through the hull and it started taking on water, so I trailered it. I was able to get the cable fixed, change the pump oil and grease the PTO. I was told the thing had not run in a year, so I checked compression ~130 on both cylinders, put in new plugs, and drained all the old oil and gas and refilled. In spending hours and hours on this forum, the thing I'm worried about is if the motor is not getting oil correctly. I downloaded the shop manual, and it has been helpful, but I still am not sure. After I filled it with oil I see some in the bilge, maybe 1/8 cup, but I dont know if it is leaking out of the tank, or what. On the top of the oil tank I see a place where a hose should go, but there is nothing connected to it. Is that where it should be coming from to get to the intake, or is that just a vent tube? I'd like to get this thing on the lake, so I'm wondering if I should run premix in it for a tank to make sure it is drawing down the oil reservior. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 

[JJinSC]

The part you speak of on top of the tank is indeed a vent. It let's air in the tank as the oil is consumed so as not to create a vacuum. I would investigate the source of the leak. Common places are the grommets on the oil tank. Some models with a two piece oil tank plastic welded together are notorious for leaking. Check all oil lines for cracks along the length and connections. Especially the small lines leaving the pump to the carb intakes.

Make sure the cable to the oil pump from the throttle connector is connected properly and not frayed. Also make sure the index lines are aligned with throttle at rest.

It will not hurt to premix with gas in the tank at 50:1 along with running injection pump for a tank or two if that will give you extra piece of mind.

 

[Txjames]

Thank you very much for the reply. Does the tuned exhaust head need to come off to get to the pump and the lines?

 

[mikidymac]

No. The pump is on the front of the engine. Just look under the pipe.

 

[Txjames]

I can't get my hands around the engine to get to the oil pump. I'm just going to remove the exhaust, but the bottom nut on the flange is totally inaccessible. The other three with allan heads came right out, but the one on the bottom toward the rear of the craft that is a regular nut .... Hmmm...Am I missing something

 

[mikidymac]

You are opening a can of worms.
You have to pull the carbs to pull the pipe.

 

[Txjames]

Well, I'm all about making this efficient, but I cannot get my hand and arm into the space to get to it. Maybe I'm not looking at this right. The oil pump is forward on the engine under the tuned pipe head.


I cannot get my hands down there at all. Is there a better way to do this?

Also, there are 2 clear lines running on the block where the arrow is in this pic. Are those oil?

 

[Txjames]

Here is the pic of the 2 lines

 

[Txjames]

Can anyone provide some guidance on this?

 

[pwgsx]

Yes thats the oil pump and you have to remove carbs to get to the bottom nut on pipe to remove to gain access to the oil pump. Since this is a new to you ski, I would get the carbs rebuilt and change out the fuel lines. With just the carbs removed you can change out the 2 small oil lines from the pump to the intake, 3/32 tygon fuel line will work. From there you can re-install the carbs and run a IV pre mix of fuel and start the ski. Reach down and move the oil pump lever to prime the new oil lines. You will see oil moving into the lines to the intake. You can now be certain the pump is working and the lines will not crack off down the road.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

You're missing the rubber flaps that go under the air horns.