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1998 Speedster Twin 787, Low RPM Problem

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JUst about to give up, 'cause I'm doing stupid things

fuel lines, inline filter o-ring bad, tighten all fuel line clamps, clean fuel selector, was the rv manifold removed, and if so, was the rv set back at right degree...:cheers:

I'm almost crying now, frick. This has been about a month of work and now gone out of my ability. The problem is not the cost of taking it in, the local shops have 2 week waiting lists and I'm only 2 weeks away from a 2 week far away trip for which the boat was purchased.

What's an RV? I don't think there's a fuel selector on this rig. All the hose clamps are those one-time jobs...they tighten? The hose out of the Mag thingy is gray...I take it that's bad...but there are no other gray lines.

I sprayed the shite out of the carb last night (when driving it on the lake) with carb-away or some other junk from Walmart, no seafoam available, and sprayed it again this morning (I did this thorugh the flame arrestor, and I know that's wrong), and had the hose on it now and revved the piss out of it in the driveway. I could not reproduce the problem, but it may still be there under load. Lake is an hour away to test.

Don't know whether to test one more time or start calling desparately Monday morning for a shop to look at it.

This was fun up to now.
 
but....

Is it at all possible that if I was able to rev it continuously at 7000 RPM in my driveway that the problem is gone? Or is it more likely that this is a fuel restriction and the problem will come back in the water when the engine tries to draw more fuel than at no load ?
 
get your self a premium membership for the month and post it on there ?
there are mecs on there 24/7 and they know what they are doing its only a few $ but the best money you can spend becouse you get very very good advise!
there is a thread just like this posted on the premium section at this moment!
 
get your self a premium membership for the month and post it on there ?
there are mecs on there 24/7 and they know what they are doing its only a few $ but the best money you can spend becouse you get very very good advise!
there is a thread just like this posted on the premium section at this moment!

Thanks. I did.
 
wilson...spray'n OUTSIDE of carbs, aint gonna tell you anything, but an air leak. You need to take thewm off, and get to the internal filter, chief.:cheers:
 
wilson...spray'n OUTSIDE of carbs, aint gonna tell you anything, but an air leak. You need to take thewm off, and get to the internal filter, chief.:cheers:

OK, well I don't want to break any more bolts off on the arrestors, so off to the shop it goes.
 
posted in there

get your self a premium membership for the month and post it on there ?
there are mecs on there 24/7 and they know what they are doing its only a few $ but the best money you can spend becouse you get very very good advise!
there is a thread just like this posted on the premium section at this moment!

Posted in the premium area, got better response from Timber in the poor boy area. Thanks Tim.
 
Posted in the premium area, got better response from Timber in the poor boy area. Thanks Tim.

OK....I just want to know...before I drive an hour to the lake and find out that there's no change....

IF I run the thing in the driveway for 1-2 minutes at 7000 RPM, does that mean it will do the same on the water? Or is no-load way different for fuel flow than full load (in the water).
 
If I do...

wilson...spray'n OUTSIDE of carbs, aint gonna tell you anything, but an air leak. You need to take thewm off, and get to the internal filter, chief.:cheers:

OK, so if I do go to Canadian Tire and buy a heat gun, and then get the flame arrestors off, and then decide to look for the little pencil sized fuel filter....is it easy to remove and inspect, or is it several pieces apart and adjustments away from my being able to do it?

Is there an easier way to get the flame arrestor off without busting the bolts?
 
spray some pb blaster on them (auto parts store). Let sit for hr/2, then try. The internal filter is located on side of carb, that the inlet fuel line connects at. You can, pop the side off only, I dont recommend, in case you drop 1 or 2 panhead bolts, then off to store for new ones.

You wont, though be able to access the pto carb filter, need to remove that carb.
 
pm a guy called seadoo snipe he will give you good advise!

Advice won't help I don't think. Sounding more and more like the carbs have to come off. I won't be doing that myself, have neither the experience, nor tools.

Ah, h=ave it a shot, did the RAVEs, and tons of other things before gettign snookered.
 
you will get good advise on prem just takes a lil time and removeing the carbs is hardly more than what you have done already maybe a 3 hr job all in on 1 motor hang in there!
as for the tools its just a socket set and screwdriver job!
 
you will get good advise on prem just takes a lil time and removeing the carbs is hardly more than what you have done already maybe a 3 hr job all in on 1 motor hang in there!
as for the tools its just a socket set and screwdriver job!

**** it. Busted bolts, weeks of pissing around. It was fun, but I'm out of my comfort now.
 
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