1998 seadoo speedster

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pitbulls3489

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wazz up friends i own a 98 speedster and i need a tech question answered . What happened was i put my boat up for 3 months and now when i plug in my lanyard i get nothing the 2 beeps that usually happen dont, i charged the battery moved the shifter around the n area and still nothing. i did the trick with the 5 button pushes and i get a short beep and a long one .does anyone no what that means .everything else works fine lights horn pump but like i said no 2 beeps and no engine turn ova when i plug in . i might be wrong but im guessing my lanyard went bad can u guys give me some advise please
 
Advanced mode?

The two beeps (one long, one short) is the signal that your in advanced diagnostic mode. After you hear those two beeps, put the lanyard back on and see what you get. If you still get no beeps, clean the lanyard and post, then try again. Don't use any petroleum solvents for cleaning. Soad and water will be fine. You can use a small piece of steel wool on the metal ring and button of the post...............:cheers:
 
I see this is your first post, so I will assume that you might not know this:

DO NOT charge your doo, while the batt cables are hooked to the doo!

You will cause expensive electrical damage.

And, I agree with Mr. Snipe, dirty lanyard post, or cap. steel wool, and soap.

:agree:

Nate
 
Are you saying that u cannot connect a 12v trickle charger to the battery while the main cables are hooked up?
 
Yes, that is exactly what I am saying. And, if you ever use jumper cables, you must turn off the HOST engine. Otherwise, it overvolts, and fries some parts, that were not well designed. Sea Doo decided to LEAVE it like this, and put a sticker on it, not to charge in the doo. And, leave it to you to find out why!

Unhook the bat cables, when charging.

Turn off the HOST engine, if jumping.

Or you will be looking for electrical parts.

I know, bad design. But, it is better to know before you fry it, than after.

N
 
Wow, I didn't know this and have used my trickle charger a few times already... is there any specific part of the electrical system that charging it ruins??? Also where is this sticker?? I don't see one on my 98 Sportster at all.
 
Let me check one thing: This has the Bombardier motor, doesn't it?

The ones with the Mercury motor... the above may be wrong, and if so, I am out of my league.

But, the ones with the Sea Doo motor, hmmmmmm

Here is a good thread on batts:

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=1188&highlight=remove+battery+before+charging

and another thread, that answers your question better than I could:

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=9676&highlight=remove+battery+before+charging

One More of intrest:

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=10299&highlight=charging

I can't seem to find the one where the story about Sea Doo deciding to use a sticker, instead of re designing the MPEM. There is one here somewhere.

But, that should give you some idea of what is going on.

Nate
 
Tender....

A tender or small trickle charger, 2 amps or less, should not cause you harm. But, it's good practice to disconnect the battery when not in use. This keeps the 12 volt DC corrosion from your connectors in your electrical system cleaner, longer. Kinda like when you leave the batteries in your flashlight to long, they get that green corrosion crap all over,.....well, this can occur in our DC electrical system too.

I do not leave my battery connected unless I leave it in the water overnight, so my bilge pump will run if needed.
 
I have something to add to the above links, there are battery charges and there are battery tenders.
battery chargers will supply a certain amount of amps to a battery, they will keep supplying this current no matter what state the battery is in. So it can over charge the battery, if the discharge rate does not match the input current.
Battery tenders will only charge the battery up to a certain voltage, the one i have has two settings one for 14.3volts and one for 14.9volts.
The first setting is used for lead acid batteries the second is used for AGM(absorbed glass mat) batteries.
Once the battery reaches this voltage the charging switches off, then it monitors the voltage until it drops to 12.9volts and switches back on.
This keeps the battery in a contsant state of discharge / recharge(cycling)
which makes it last longer.:hurray:
When the engines are running on my boat it controls the battery voltage at around 14.3volts, so i think that a battery tender that controls at 14.3volts is perfect and should not cause any problems with electrics on my boat. I have a battery isolation switch which i open then connect my tender which is hardwired to the battery in the boat, this has worked perfect for a year now!!
If you use a battery charger then you run the risk of overcharging you battery and putting a higher voltage to the electronic circuts( i'v seen one hit 16.7 volts), this can cause things to burn out if the tolerences dont allow for it.
This obviosly wont effect the circuts if the battery is disconnect.:rofl:

When we did large stereo's in cars, we would sometime change the voltage regulator in the altenator to a higher voltage 16volts. This ment we could get more current to the amps, which were designed to handle up to 16volts. But we had to be careful which cars we did this too, because some of the makers didn't build there wiring to handle this voltage and we did burn a few things out every now and then.
Long winded i know, but i hope it helps. :cheers:
 
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All I have is a small 1.5amp battery "tender" that will just slowly charge the battery to full, then trickle charge to keep it at full. It even has indicator lights to tell you what state the battery is in, and what it is doing.
The battery isolation switch sounds like a good idea, where is a good place to pick one of those up?
 
swill
I've got the same boat as you and I installed a keyed disconnect next to the oil cap. It works great. It has a little red key that can be removed entirely form the boat for security. I think I bought it off of ebay for like 20 bones
 
swill
I've got the same boat as you and I installed a keyed disconnect next to the oil cap. It works great. It has a little red key that can be removed entirely form the boat for security. I think I bought it off of ebay for like 20 bones

Cool man, just got one for $14 including shipping on ebay.
 
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