1997 Seadoo GTX fuel problem

[Mitchelll_3]

Started up the Ski like normal ran for about 2-3 minutes perfectly fine and then had it at idle when it just died.

Fuel tank is almost right full, cannot get fuel to the fuel filter(water separator) and when we tried putting fuel in the fuel filter it wouldnt even suck out of the filter. Where should we start and what should we look for? Completely stock ski with only 70ish hours.

 

[Ckrawiec]

Basic questions:

You can test/bypass everything by putting the fuel line directly from the tank into the carb (that'll indicate if there is a blockage somewhere else before the carb)
1) is the fuel selector switch in the RUN position?
2) vacuum comes from the engine pulling fuel into the MAG side carb....have the carbs been serviced ever?
Might be time for a rebuild on the carbs - 22 year old ski
3) grey tempo fuel lines? - replace all and DEFINATELY rebuild the carbs (using ONLY genuine MIKUNI carb rebuild kits (don't waste your time or $$$ with aftermarket carb kits)
4) if replacing all fuel lines, replace the fuel selector switch as well

 

[jts32]

Also check the pulse line to the fuel pump didn't come loose or crack

 

[One1]

Vapor lock really isn’t a thing on these so rule that out. The petcock could be damaged. Direct feed fuel into it from the hose coming from the fuel filter and see what happens. You’ll know what to do from there.

 

[Mitchelll_3]

Basic questions:

You can test/bypass everything by putting the fuel line directly from the tank into the carb (that'll indicate if there is a blockage somewhere else before the carb)
1) is the fuel selector switch in the RUN position?
2) vacuum comes from the engine pulling fuel into the MAG side carb....have the carbs been serviced ever?
Might be time for a rebuild on the carbs - 22 year old ski
3) grey tempo fuel lines? - replace all and DEFINATELY rebuild the carbs (using ONLY genuine MIKUNI carb rebuild kits (don't waste your time or $$$ with aftermarket carb kits)
4) if replacing all fuel lines, replace the fuel selector switch as well

We have serviced the carbs...yes fuel selector is on the run position and we've even had it on the reserve to try the other pickup. And yes unfortunately it still has the tempo fuel lines, we've read on that and are sick of having to clean the carb filters. We have it on the trailer and are bringing it home to look at. Will probably start with the pressure line and pulling and investigating into the carbs.

 

[GGuillot]

We have serviced the carbs...yes fuel selector is on the run position and we've even had it on the reserve to try the other pickup. And yes unfortunately it still has the tempo fuel lines, we've read on that and are sick of having to clean the carb filters. We have it on the trailer and are bringing it home to look at. Will probably start with the pressure line and pulling and investigating into the carbs.

I'd be sick of cleaning the carb filters also, so...I'd start with replacing all the tempo lines, including the vent lines...then the fuel selector, then the fuel strainer oring, then clean the vent ck valves. In that order, then lastly 'again', go through the carbs.

 

[Mitchelll_3]

Vapor lock really isn’t a thing on these so rule that out. The petcock could be damaged. Direct feed fuel into it from the hose coming from the fuel filter and see what happens. You’ll know what to do from there.

Havent heard the term "petcock" what exactly is that.

 

[Mitchelll_3]

I'd be sick of cleaning the carb filters also, so...I'd start with replacing all the tempo lines, including the vent lines...then the fuel selector, then the fuel strainer oring, then clean the vent ck valves. In that order, then lastly 'again', go through the carbs.

We have checked all fuel lines going from tank to fuel switch to filter to the pressure check valves and to the carbs and there flowing freely no issues there. Just about to get into the carbs and examine the insides.

 

[tmclark4209]

petcock is a fancy word for the fuel selector , i had to bypass everything and run the res line from the tank straight to the carb and then she ran fine . doing this determined that the problem was either the fuel selector , clogged or cracked fuel line or filter/housing. turned out that the gasket in the fuel filter housing was missing so my carbs were sucking up air with the fuel

 

[tmclark4209]

make sure your pulse line isn't loose or cracked as well

 

[Mitchelll_3]

Basic questions:

You can test/bypass everything by putting the fuel line directly from the tank into the carb (that'll indicate if there is a blockage somewhere else before the carb)
1) is the fuel selector switch in the RUN position?
2) vacuum comes from the engine pulling fuel into the MAG side carb....have the carbs been serviced ever?
Might be time for a rebuild on the carbs - 22 year old ski
3) grey tempo fuel lines? - replace all and DEFINATELY rebuild the carbs (using ONLY genuine MIKUNI carb rebuild kits (don't waste your time or $$$ with aftermarket carb kits)
4) if replacing all fuel lines, replace the fuel selector switch as well

*UPDATE*
All the lines have been checked and same with the fuel selector and check valves. Everything flows the way it should. So we started to get to the carbs but didnt pull them yet, got a little late. We poured fuel directly into the carbs and it wouldnt even sputter. Pretty sure the carbs are the issue. What is most likely to clog or fail in these carbs?

 

[jjsinaz]

Did you check to see if you have spark? If you put gas in the carbs and didn't even get a sputter, I'd check that out.

 

[Ckrawiec]

*UPDATE*
All the lines have been checked and same with the fuel selector and check valves. Everything flows the way it should. So we started to get to the carbs but didnt pull them yet, got a little late. We poured fuel directly into the carbs and it wouldnt even sputter. Pretty sure the carbs are the issue. What is most likely to clog or fail in these carbs?

There are tiny passages inside the carbs that could be gunked up. If you are dealing with the old grey fuel lines, chances are your little internal fuel filters are clogged up. See attached cut-away for the carb body construction. There is a sticky post for CARB Rebuilding...follow it, all steps, no shortcuts using oNLY Genuine MIKUNI carb rebuilding kits....any other aftermarket kits and you are wasting your time and $$$$ (take that as collective wisdom).

So, the engine turns over but would not even sputter with gas directly into the carb throats...that's not good, she should have at least coughed a little.....don't use starter fluid either...no lubrication in it and it washes down the cylinder walls removing any oil.

Make sure you have a good strong battery to start with...these skis are nothing without a good battery to get things started.

 

[jts32]

Unhook the pulse line and see if you are getting a pulsing action when the motor turns over. Premix down the carbs or plug holes should have made it pop off for a couple of seconds. Starting to wonder if you've got bigger issues like a stripped RV gear. A stripped gear may mean no pulse to the fuel pump to pull fuel, and won't run on fuel dumped down the carbs or plug holes.

 

[Mitchelll_3]

Unhook the pulse line and see if you are getting a pulsing action when the motor turns over. Premix down the carbs or plug holes should have made it pop off for a couple of seconds. Starting to wonder if you've got bigger issues like a stripped RV gear. A stripped gear may mean no pulse to the fuel pump to pull fuel, and won't run on fuel dumped down the carbs or plug holes.

*LATEST UPDATE*
Recent discovery concluded we dont have spark. The spark plugs were wet after pulling them out, indicating we now do have fuel going to the engine. We are looking around at plugs, checked the coil pack, no loose connections and we cleaned a rusty ground wire and still nothing. We are in the MPEM box and the fuses are still good. Wondering if the MPEM box is toast or not? Anything else to check for not having spark?

 

[etemplet]

Check the engine electrical connections at the MAG. Unplug the wiring and test the wires with an Ohm meter. You may find an issue there or you may need to remove the mag cover to physically check if there is debris on the engine pick up. This will prevent the engine from firing because it can't detect the timing point. The block module on the right is the pick up. On the end is a magnet. If it is dirty the ski may not fire consistently. This is a 1996 set up. I'm pretty sure it is the same as the 1997.

 

[Ckrawiec]

*LATEST UPDATE*
Recent discovery concluded we dont have spark. The spark plugs were wet after pulling them out, indicating we now do have fuel going to the engine. We are looking around at plugs, checked the coil pack, no loose connections and we cleaned a rusty ground wire and still nothing. We are in the MPEM box and the fuses are still good. Wondering if the MPEM box is toast or not? Anything else to check for not having spark?

Before you start taking BIG things apart.....check ignition coil, spark plug boots, trim 1/4" off the spark wire ends and re-attach the boots, make sure all the electrical connections are clean, bright and tight, pay attention to all ground connections to the ignition coil and check all wiring and harness connections (wiggle, disconnect/reconnect) look for corrosion anywhere and check for continuity everywhere.

On Tuesday, you stated the ski started and ran for a couple minutes, so I'd find it hard to believe the stator suddenly STB but stranger things have happened.

 

[jjsinaz]

Make sure the battery is FULLY charged. These things are very sensitive to low battery voltage during cranking and even though the engine is cranking strong if the voltage drops much below 11v sometimes the ignition will not fire

 

[Ckrawiec]

Amen to that....these skis are nothing without a good fully charged battery to kicks things off

 

[etemplet]

If debris has accumulated on that pick up it will start sometimes and run great, then it won't fire at all but mostly won't fire at all. Makes is real difficult to diagnose. I spent a long long time with the electronics up front. I thought it was the MPEM and even bought a replacement CDI and holder relay. You can't check the pick up with an ohm meter because it isn't bad... just dirty. I like to take this area apart on all the skis I restore. If there is corrosion in there then there is a potential problem looming with the pick up. I've cleaned up a few. Just keep this in mind. I chased a few issues on our 96 and 97 GTXs. LOL

 

[etemplet]

When my skis get stupid, I go for the rectifier or coil especially if it happens in the middle of a nice ride. When you finally figure out the problem you've learned so much so... it's not really a bad thing. Ha ha But tell that to a person fighting the problem. LOL I have two skis I need to take out on the water this week for testing. Sometimes I think how convenient it would be if I had a home on the water. I considered a test tank but taking them to the water is much more productive and FUN, even when the don't run exactly like I'd like them to.

 

[tobytd]

Ya can’t beat it . Even with a BIG stick.

 

[etemplet]

Very Nice !!

 

[GGuillot]

You'll be chasing your tail until you go through the fuel system and change the grey tempo lines out. Doesn't matter if it only has 70 hrs and so forth, from the tank to the carbs, change all the lines out, oring in the fuel strainer, new selector, clean/test the vent relief valves, and rebuild the carbs with genuine oem kits.

After all that, then start chasing the spark issue, as mentioned above, clip the spark plug wires back 1/4", verify the rear ebox stuff is rust free, if not clip those those spark wires back also at the coil. If that doesn't work move on to the stator and pickup.

 

[Mitchelll_3]

Check the engine electrical connections at the MAG. Unplug the wiring and test the wires with an Ohm meter. You may find an issue there or you may need to remove the mag cover to physically check if there is debris on the engine pick up. This will prevent the engine from firing because it can't detect the timing point. The block module on the right is the pick up. On the end is a magnet. If it is dirty the ski may not fire consistently. This is a 1996 set up. I'm pretty sure it is the same as the 1997.

View attachment 43891

We checked it, its mounted correctly, and cleaned. It was re-installed and turned engine over and only reading 0.5 Volts trigger pulse. Is that correct? The coil metered at 240 ohms.