1997 Seadoo GTI Oil Injection help

[gruntus]

I just got a 1997 sea doo bombardier gti and I have noticed that my oil tank is staying full. I know this is not good and I can only guess that the only reason the ski is not dead is because I 2oz of oil for each gal of gas. I did this on the advice of a guy who works on Jet Skis as a safety just in case oil stopped feeding to the motor.

A few questions
Where does the oil mix, is it mixed in the large fuel filter at the front hatch?
Does anyone have and pictures of where the oil lines should run to?
How to I check to see if oil is in fact moving through the lines?
I have seen the two large lines that go to the engine but from what I have read these are for the grears of the motor.

I have been searching the web for a few days now and I just can not find a simple diagram of how the oil injection system works.

Any help you guys could give would be great.

 

[ski-d00]

the oil pump is under the carbs and the feed line to it should have a white filter inline, there also are 2 lines the keep the rotary valve compartment always full of oil, one on each side of the motor.

oil is pumped directly into the intake manifold between the carbs and cylinders. the system is very reliable until people start messing with it. it has a cable that is tied to the throttle that moves an arm on the oil pump that supplies more oil with more throttle. there are factory hash marks that need to be aligned at idle.

sounds like you need a pdf manual, you can get them here if you're a premium member or lots of other places for only a small amount.

 

[gruntus]

Well I looked into the motor a bit and took off he airbox so that I could see the oil pump. I found the lines that I needed to but not sure what I should do now.

How do you test to see if the oil pump is in fact working?
Are there any pics or video of the hash marks?

Thanks for the help so far...

 

[Dr Honda]

As said above... you need a manual. The test is outlined there, and it will give you a pumping volume. (all the skis are different)

BUT....


The hash (alignment) marks are on the face of the cable pulley of the pump. On a ski... you will need an inspection mirror to see them.

A quick and dirty test, is to start with doing an oil system service (change the filter, and the 2 small hoses) then when you bleed the system... you will see the oil pulse up small hoses. (about an 1/8" every second)

 

[gruntus]

I got the PDF and the method for measuring the oil flow seems a bit hard to do for a regular guy. The Pdf says to pull the pump out and hook it up to a drill at 1500rpm and measure how much comes out.

Taking engine parts out is way more intensive than swapping the lines. I like the idea of the quick and dirty method so could you give more details about that.
I take it that I would have to remove the oil from the two small lines but what about the air that will be sucked in when I am running the motor?
Am I supposed to just start it like normal and watch for oil flow? I guess everything would be fine with the motor since I mixed oil in with the gas but I am a bit concerned with doing damage to the motor.

I have been up all night so let me know if I have it.

Replace the lines.
Use gas that has the oil in it.
Open the bleed valve.
Hook up the water hose.
Start the ski.
Turn on the water.
As the motor is running watch for oil to pulse down the two lines.
When all of the air is out of the system close the bleed valve.
Turn off the water.
Let the motor run to get the water out of the system.
Shut down the motor.

If I don't see the oil pulsing I guess that means I have to buy a new pump or that the hash marks are not lining up at idle.

Thanks for the info guys.

 

[Dr Honda]

OK... the "Quick and dirty" method.

Let me start by saying... this is not a real test... it just says, yes or no to the question... "Is my pump, pumping?"

Basically, every couple years, you will need to service the oil system. There is a filter in the main feed hose that needs changed, and the 2 small (3/32") hoses get brittle from heat... or soft from aftermarket oils... and they need changed.

FYI... almost every time, when someone comes here saying... "My oil pump failed, and killed my engine"... in reality what they should be saying is... "I'm an idiot, and never serviced my oil system, and my filter is plugged up, and the hoses fell off because of neglect."


OK... so after you change the hoses, and filter... bleed the system as outlined in the manual.

1) Open the screw on the face of the pump to let oil flow down the main hose, and fill the filter.
2) start the engine, and hold the pump arm to "Full".
3) watch the oil pulse up the small hoses. It will alternate, and it should pulse about 1/8" each time. When full... shut off the engine. (done)

Note: Most of the time, you don't need to hook up water. You can normally fill the small hoses in about 10 to 15 seconds. Hold the pump arm open while starting, so you start bleeding as soon as it fires.


One last thing... since Seadoo uses a variable oil system... it takes a long time to burn a tank of oil... since most of the time, you aren't at full throttle.

 

[gruntus]

It really feels good when I go to fix something and what ever I'm working on gets better instead of worse. :thumbsup:

I finally saw a decent amount of smoke exit the ski and what you said about the variable oil injection makes perfect sense, plus the oil tank on the GTI is frickin huge.
The only question I have left is about the way that I secured the hoses. I could not find clips small enough so I used small zip ties. Is this ok or should I continue to look for some metal clips.

Thanks for the super handy info Doc.
And Ski-Doo