-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
1997 GTS bogging issue - Need help
- Thread starter rkkoeb
- Start date
- Status
Glarks 120Pcs 7-21mm 304 Stainless Steel Single Ear stepless Hose Clamps Assortment Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07121VY67/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_iC5VIcVbEhh9X
I did not have battery issues when my rectifier went out .mine would sputter like a jet was clogged or like it was running out of fuel .and some times it would run for an hour with no issues .but at first hit if the throttle it took a lot of work to get it going
rkkoeb
Active Member
ok did my pressure test and found gas coming out the side of the fuel body on the carb. Took it apart and found that the clear gasket had a kink in it and that is were it was leaking from. Will order new parts today. Not sure if this is my problem but I am sure if doesn't help
Then you got non genuine mikuni diaphragms for your GSX. As I have said before the Genuine Mikuni kits for the 787, 650, 717 and 587 are all the exact same kit. The only ones that are different are the 951 and very early 587's.
They also use all the same parts from the kits. On the little instruction sheet from Mikuni don't follow it where it says "Not for 38mm" as the Seadoo 38mm on the 717's are different.
The carbs also don't determine the pop off, only the springs and seat size do. Your 787 and GSX had different pop off because they use different needle and seat sizes.
I am not saying you are wrong, I am only saying in over 25 years of working on these and only using genuine mikuni parts I have never once seen a Mikuni 38-40mm diaphragm that didn't have the red button but 99% of the aftermarket ones are silver.
Take if for what it's worth but I have always used the sealed complete kits from Mikuni and every one has had the diaphragm with the red button.
Not necessarily. When mine went out it was producing 15 volts and the battery was super strong. The issue is that when they go out they produce AC voltage like your house and the MPEM can't deal with it and can do all sorts of crazy things.
Mine would start fine every time but would run on one cylinder then act like it was hitting the REV limiter then back to one cylinder. As soon as I pulled the red wire on the regulator it ran perfect.
Mine would start fine every time but would run on one cylinder then act like it was hitting the REV limiter then back to one cylinder. As soon as I pulled the red wire on the regulator it ran perfect.
Glad to hear it. I might be loosing my mind but I do know these carbs. LOL. THe kits have gotten harder to find lately at a decent price. I might just start buying the parts from OSD since I have so many extra springs and fuel pump parts from years of only using partial kits on the PTO carbs.
Cliff787
Active Member
I certainly hope this fixes that annoying bog!
Can't wait to hear your results!
OSDparts.com is located in Ohio and might be a good alternative for you.
rkkoeb
Active Member
Update: Took it out for a ride. Ran great for about the first 15 minutes and then the issues again. When this issue happen and if I pull out the chock it kills the engine so I am not thinking it is a fuel issue but electrical one. With that said what should I try next? rectifier? Were is it located at? Could it be getting hot and causing problems?
HELP
HELP
Cliff787
Active Member
As I was reading through the posts. Post #3 says that 2 of the 4 fuel baffle nipples were larger than the other ones. What's up with that? Were they plastic welded on? Because they should all be the same size. Possible air leak? I don't know.
Could you put in the original fuel baffle and see what happens?
Another thought is that it could be a faulty rectifier. The stator creates an A/C voltage and the rectifier changes it into a D/C voltage that the Sea Doo system can use. Too much A/C in the system will cause a lot of screwy things to happen. I don't know if this is the problem. Just giving ideas and things to check.
Could you put in the original fuel baffle and see what happens?
Another thought is that it could be a faulty rectifier. The stator creates an A/C voltage and the rectifier changes it into a D/C voltage that the Sea Doo system can use. Too much A/C in the system will cause a lot of screwy things to happen. I don't know if this is the problem. Just giving ideas and things to check.
If it passes the fuel pressure test and the oil pressure tests I would take a meter to the MPEM and rectifier .I Just replaced my rectifier because it was pretty cheap in cost .that manual will tell how to test both ..the rectifier fixed my problem and I was doing the same thing as you are .it gets frustrating
- Status
