1997 GTS bogging issue - Need help

[rkkoeb]

I have a 1997 GTS with the 717 motor. When I purchased it I had no issues and it ran good. It did have the grey fuel line and a fuel gauge that was not working. Based off what I read I decided to change them both out. The next time I took it out the jet ski would start bogging and then take off and run great and then back to bogging. With that I decided to rebuild the carb with OEI parts. I replaced all the parts including both jets. I took it out again this time not nearly as bad. Most of the times it ran good but then it would start bogging down again. On land the throttle is crisp and responsive but when it is out in the water it starts having issues. Any suggestion on what it could be? It seams like starving for gas or a spark plug that is failing? I am going to try changing the plugs tonight .

Thanks

 

[omboli]

I would pressure test the fuel system and the oil system.first

 

[rkkoeb]

How do I pressure test the fuel system? I was thinking maybe I am getting air in the system? The plugs I took out look good, doesn't show running lean in which I think would happen if I was getting air in the fuel system?

One thing I did notice was the old fuel sending unit that I took out all four end were for 1/4" fuel lines
The one I installed two of the ends were a little larger so I had to heat up the lines to get them to fit over the fittings.

 

[omboli]

You can just do a search on Google type in 1997 gts Seadoo service manual it's a free download it will give you step by step instructions on how to do both tests

 

[nibroc]

snip a 1/4" off each plug wire

 

[pwgsx]

When you rebuilt the carbs did you make sure all the green gunk from the old fuel lines was cleaned out? Did you set the H and L screws to spec? Did you keep the original spring or did you change it to what came in the rebuild kit?

 

[Cliff787]

In addition to what's been suggested. You'll want to poke the holes inside of the carbs with a piece of wire to be sure they are clear of debris or green goo. Any blockage will cause problems to the fuel delivery.

We're the replacement jets the same size or of a different size?

New Needle and Seats and a size of 1.2 ?

 

[omboli]

That's right as cliff said the needle seats on a 717 should be 1.2 not 1.5

 

[mikidymac]

I would also suspect the fuel strainer and fuel selector. I never do a fuel system rebuild without replacing both of them.

 

[omboli]

Doing the pressure test on the fuel system real test the fuel selector valve and also it will test the Breather valve or I guess I should say the safety pressure valve

 

[omboli]

Another thing is the little clear

 

[omboli]

Another thing you could check since you rebuild the carburetors to make sure the little clear plastic check valve is in there and covering the hole check valve is to keep fuel from flooding the chamber when you let off the throttle if it's not covering the whole or it's damaged it could be letting fuel back into the carburetor

 

[omboli]

Did you make sure the round clear plastic diaphragms they going with that rubber piece did you make sure they were in the right direction there is an upside and a downside to those if use the factory Mikuni kits they have ink on the upside make sure you didn't poke holes in the rubbers when you put them in

 

[mikidymac]

Doing the pressure test on the fuel system real test the fuel selector valve and also it will test the Breather valve or I guess I should say the safety pressure valve

But it will not tell you if the selector is obstructed with trash restricting fuel flow, only if it is leaking air under pressure.

 

[omboli]

That's true . I was assuming there was no obstruction because he was getting to much gas . But it's a good idea to change it now it's 20 years old .lol and use OEM on the fuel selector the aftermarket ones are cheap and don't fit well .I bought the aftermarket ones and threw them in the trash and bought the OEM so you can save a little money and not buy them twice

 

[rkkoeb]

Yes I replaced the low/high jets with the same size. I used a OEM kit and didn't change out the spring. I did use the 1.2 needle and seat. I did change out the fuel filter when I did the fuel lines. Yes the hole was covered by the plastic tab. I did pay special attention to the plastic diaphragms and making sure they were in correct. The carb was spot less after I cleaned it and didn't even have any of the green goo in it when I started to clean and replace the parts. It was pretty clean looking.

My big issue is it ran great until I changed the fuel lines and sending unit. The only part I didn't change was the fuel selecting knob and the one I did purchase was junk and fell apart right away. I did make sure the original one was clean before I put it back on. When it bogs if I move the selector between reserve and on nothing changes with the bogging.

 

[rkkoeb]

Ok found this on line on how to pressure test the system:

Fill up fuel tank.
� Disconnect air inlet hose of fuel tank from body.
� Install a hose pincher (P / N 295-000-076) on fuel tank vent hose.
� Connect pump gauge tester (P / N 295-000-085) to air inlet hose.
� Turn fuel valve to OFF position and pressurize fuel system to 34 kPa (5 PSI). If no leaks are found, turn fuel valve to ON position and pressurize once more.
� If pressure is not maintained locate leak and repair/replace component leaking. To ease leak search spray a solution of soapy water on components, bubbles will indicate leak location.

 

[rkkoeb]

Does the fuel tank need to be full or can it be half full to do this test?

 

[pwgsx]

Its a carb or fuel line leaking air. Did you use the correct carb parts from the kit? Although some look the same, they have different cutouts on them. If you open the carb back up, post some pics of the inside.

 

[omboli]

Mine was almost empty when I tested it it just takes a lot longer to get enough air in there to build up the 5 lb or 3 lb whatever it takes I think the fuel was 5 lb and the oil system is 3 lb and I just used some round pieces of flat stock and vice grips to clamp off the fuel lines since I didn't have four pair of line clamps

 

[snsbuck]

Rectifier ? Mine went bad on my GTX. I swore up & down it was a fuel issue & chased this issue for 1/2 a summer as it would come & go. Just throwing it out there.....

 

[omboli]

Rectifier ? Mine went bad on my GTX. I swore up & down it was a fuel issue & chased this issue for 1/2 a summer as it would come & go. Just throwing it out there.....

I also changed my rectifier when I thought I was having fuel issues and that did fix the problem that was on my GSX on my GTI with the 717 motor I change the mpem and that actually fixed a lot of the issues I was having that I but we're carburetor related I would pay special attention to the end of that chapter on testing the fuel pressure make sure you can feel the pressure come out when you release the that will tell you if your safety valve is good

Its a carb or fuel line leaking air. Did you use the correct carb parts from the kit? Although some look the same, they have different cutouts on them. If you open the carb back up, post some pics of the inside.

Mine was almost empty when I tested it it just takes a lot longer to get enough air in there to build up the 5 lb or 3 lb whatever it takes I think the fuel was 5 lb and the oil system is 3 lb and I just used some round pieces of flat stock and vice grips to clamp off the fuel lines since I didn't have four pair of line clamps

 

[omboli]

Pay special attention to the end of the chapter on testing the pressure system when you release the clamps make sure you can feel the air come out of the safety pressure valve on the side of the boat

 

[rkkoeb]

I am thinking it is a fuel line leaking air and not the carb. Reason I say this is it ran great before I changed the lines. I will test it tonight and see if I have a leak in the fuel line system.

 

[rkkoeb]

If it was the rectifier wouldn't I have battery charging issues? Battery seems to be very strong.