Looking for tech tips to read and equp ment to have. 130 hrs on the ski and been a couple years since it's been on the water. Last i remember it wasn't able to reach full throttle or above 5000rpm. The carbs were rebuilt a couple of times at " a pro shop" and would run ok for almost a season. Cranks in drive way and I plan on doing carbs and fuel lines and filters. I inherited the ski last year and can work on it now. I'll check compression and change rave valve bellows and orings as I see a leak. The pics of the plug is before cranking. Not sure if this looks bad. Any help in direction greatly appreciated. I don't plan on taking to a shop yet as I've been had for around 1500 green ones between the 2 shops and the ski ain't worth another 800 unless I'm buying parts and doing the work.
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
1997 gsx tune up?
- Thread starter rtb97
- Start date
- Status
ah64driver2002
Member
That's the wrong oil. I am fairly new to working on skis so I am sure someone with more experience than me will chime in but you need to get that out of your ski.
ah64driver2002
Member
Should be api-tc rated.
a Rave rebuild kit should come with new gaskets... I personally don't re-use them but I imagine some do.
mikidymac has a great thread to rebuild the carbs
The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread
In addition to what mikidymac says, go through and replace any grey tempo fuel lines you have. Clean the fuel selector and filter/seperator.
and from personal experience, while you have it apart doing those things verify your vent lines are clear and the vent check valves are both working.
I have the same ski as you and am going through what you're about to do now. I did everything but the vent lines and check valves and wouldn't you know they're giving me problems. It's a pain to troubleshoot running issues unless you have everything in a known good state.
mikidymac has a great thread to rebuild the carbs
The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread
In addition to what mikidymac says, go through and replace any grey tempo fuel lines you have. Clean the fuel selector and filter/seperator.
and from personal experience, while you have it apart doing those things verify your vent lines are clear and the vent check valves are both working.
I have the same ski as you and am going through what you're about to do now. I did everything but the vent lines and check valves and wouldn't you know they're giving me problems. It's a pain to troubleshoot running issues unless you have everything in a known good state.
You have to use only API-TC Full Synthetic oil in your ski.
Don't clean the fuel selector, replace it as they suck air and seize engines.
For the fuel strainer at minimum get a new square o-ring but for $20 I just replace the entire unit.
You will also need a new oil filter when you change and flush the wrong oil out. I would also replace the oil tank grommets at that time too.
I get all my parts and oil OEM from Pro Caliber parts out of Washington, free shipping over $99.
Don't clean the fuel selector, replace it as they suck air and seize engines.
For the fuel strainer at minimum get a new square o-ring but for $20 I just replace the entire unit.
You will also need a new oil filter when you change and flush the wrong oil out. I would also replace the oil tank grommets at that time too.
I get all my parts and oil OEM from Pro Caliber parts out of Washington, free shipping over $99.
- Status
