1996 xp won’t turn over

Status
Not open for further replies.

Rschumaker7

New Member
Hey guys,

I’ve read quite a bit on this, but I can’t find an exact thread to match my problem. I have two of the identical XP’s with the 787 motor. Both had the same problem of not turning over with the plugs in. One is now fixed with a new starter cleaning up the wires and new battery. The other one is still giving me issues. I now have the carbs off, exhaust off, and plugs out. When I roll it over with the starter a milky liquid that looks like oil and water is coming out of the rear intake hole. Is this engine full of water? I’m not sure there’s any other options. It looks like the rotary valve is pulling the liquid up from the bottom. This one also has a new starter, battery, and connections are clean.
 
If it is just dark oil and some gas it's your crank seals leaking. If it is water and rust and oil then your crank is shot.

An pictures of this fluid?
 
Yes, that is water in that engine and could have already done it's damage. Rust on bearings and cylinders act like sandpaper and will destroy itself.

Was it run on the hose without the engine on, towed or flooded with rain water?
 
Yes, that is water in that engine and could have already done it's damage. Rust on bearings and cylinders act like sandpaper and will destroy itself.

Was it run on the hose without the engine on, towed or flooded with rain water?
I’ve never heard this one run. Came as a package deal. He said it was rode last year, but you know how that goes. I’m not sure if it’s important to note, but these are converted to premix. Both have the line still running to the valve from the oil tank
 
Doesn't really matter with water in it. You could get the water out and run it but it's a ticking time bomb in my opinion.

Up to you if you want to roll the dice. You can use a siphon or old shop vac to get the water out.
 
I’m not sure where to suck the water from. It’s all the way in the bottom. I’m about four bolts away from having the engine completely out.
 
If you turn the engine crankshaft over the rotary valve will move and open the port you are looking at and you can see the crankshaft and use a hose to suck out the water.

Once you pull the engine bolts you will have to align the engine.
 
If you turn the engine crankshaft over the rotary valve will move and open the port you are looking at and you can see the crankshaft and use a hose to suck out the water.

Once you pull the engine bolts you will have to align the engine.
okay, I’ve already got it out. How do you align it when I put it back in?
 
No I was watching some videos of the alignment for the driveshaft. If I just took the top mounts off and left the original shims I don’t think I have to re-align it
 
Okay, I’ll see if I can find a tool.

So here’s where I’m at. I have the motor in the air with jumper cables bolted directly to the starter and clean grounds, hooked to a car battery. Exhaust is off, carbs are off, plugs out. Rolls over with no issues.

Compression for both sides with the plug on the opposite side removed:
starter#1(brand new 8 tooth): wouldn’t turn over
Starter#2(one that came in it with 9 tooth): 155psi
Starter#3(one I had sitting around 9tooth): 160psi

None of these starters will turn it over with both plugs in. It has to be the starter at this point right?? Without plugs I can turn it by hand with no hesitation and no weird noises like a bad bearing.
 
When you crank it over with the plugs out does any fluid come out of the plug holes?

If it turns over easily then there is no reason it shouldn't turn over with the plugs in except the starter since you have eliminated everything else. Although I can't see three starters being bad it is possible and to do a compression check accurately one plug should be in at all times.
 
Okay, I torn everything back down, cleaned it up and put new battery, cables and everything on and it will turn over with plugs. It hesitates on the first revolution, but eventually keeps spinning it so that’s good enough for me. Compression is around 160. Does this have a high compression head?

Also, I pulled the motor without pulling the driveshaft. I'm not going to align the motor even though I know it’s recommended, although I have it so it will set in exactly.I don’t think I will be able to put it back together without pulling the driveshaft right? It was a pain to get out with the driveshaft in...
 
160 shouldn’t be a high compression head since stock is 150. I would suspect a gauge that isn’t accurate.

Pump and driveshaft should be out fo engine removal and installation. And not aligning is risky and could ruin your pump, driveshaft and driveshaft seal.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top