1996 XP - got past oil leak, now stuck on electrical problem - so closeeeee

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shattered00

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Hello everyone,

The oil leak appears to have been fixed with a combination of extra hose clamp and RTV. No leak for 24 hours.

Last night I decided to hook everything up as far as the battery goes and this is what I experienced in this specific order (new VTS, new starter (crappy aftermarket as I didn't know OEM was best way until after I bought), new starter relay, new battery). VTS was in middle position prior to all of this.

I hooked the black negative cable from the negative on the battery to the part of the engine where the starter screws through (pic 1). I had previously hooked up the red cable to the starter itself (pic 2). I also hooked the other red cable to the positive terminal on the battery. I hooked up the short black negative cable (pic 3) to the negative terminal and then finally hooked the longer black cable to the negative terminal.

I put the DSS key on and heard two beeps close together. I moved the VTS to the down position (pic 4) and it worked. The VTS would not move back up even though I heard the button clicking and what sounded like some type of electrical noise. I opened the VTS housing and made sure the wires were connected (pic 5). I had previously used dielectric grease and the VTS motor is brand new.

I then attempted to start the ski but noticed that the key was not getting a good connection (factory Sea Doo DSS key) since the lights on the gauge cluster were off. I wiggled the key around and heard two beeps again and saw the lights come on (all four of them in the middle gauge). The lights went off again but still had power to the VTS. I hit the start button and heard the starter do maybe one or two cranks but very, very weak. The start button was clicking as if it was making connection each time I pushed it, however, most of the time there was no response from the ski. I tried again and observed the flywheel was turning (however it was not smooth because the impeller needs to cut through the wear ring since it is stuck on it from installation even though i sprayed sea doo lube on the ring to help it break free).

I disconnected the key and the flywheel continued to try and move and the starter made a a few turns and I began to smell something odd, almost like a very faint chlorine smell. Have never smelled it before in my life so not sure what it was. Since I thought the key was a kill switch and the ski was still trying to turn over somewhat, I got very worried and went to disconnect the negative from the battery. When the screw was almost all the way out, sparks began to fly akin to someone grinding on metal and I pulled back. I have lost the screw and could not find it because I had a hold of the wire and when I pulled back the screw must've flown either out of the ski or somewhere in the hull likely to not be found. I then disconnected the positive making sure not to touch anything to metal. Both ends of the cables were HOT to the point where you could not hold them.

TLDR:

1) What did I hook up wrong to cause the ski to not start properly and why did it continue to "try" and start after the key was removed?

2) Why does the VTS go down but not up?

Thank you for any input.

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Lot going on here. First thing, ditch that starter and find an oem one. You're also missing the support bracket on the back of the starter. Only reason I can think of why the starter would try to engage with the key off is a bad/stuck solenoid.

Not sure why your impeller is digging into the wear ring. I'm assuming it's a cheap aftermarket one? How bad is it hung up? With plugs out, you should easily be able to turn the motor over by hand. If it's hard to turn over, you are putting a lot of extra stress on your starter.

As far as the VTS, unplug the motor and use a test light to check for power to both wires. If no power, check the fuse in the front e-box. If you have power, check the VTS buttons. When a button is pushed it should ground out one wire completing a circuit, and the other button when pushed should ground out the other wire. Does your trim gauge read correctly? There is a magnet on the VTS rod that controls the gauge and the limits of the VTS. If the magnet is missing it will allow the motor to operate past the trim limits and will blow the fuse.

Edit: your vts fuse is in the rear e-box. 7.5 amp fuse

Good luck
 
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Agreed. Confirm the hung up wear ring isn't causing the motor to be locked. My guess is that if you pulled that much current the solenoid contacts could have began to weld together. Also, just a thought, did you confirm that the new starter bendix has the same number of teeth as the old?
 
Thanks for the information. A quick update. Before I implemented y'alls suggestions, I took the 95 out and it almost sank on me. Somehow the new bearing I got for the driveshaft worked for about 7 hours (had it lubed up in both of the grease fittings) and then stopped spinning. The entire boot came off and water started pouring in. I didn't realize what happened for a few seconds because it started to cavitate and I didn't know why. I took the seat off and saw the water pouring in. Luckily I was close to a boat ramp and made it there with the water just below the carburetors. At this point, I was so defeated that I just had to walk away from trying to fix anything on any of them. I am now going to give it one more go this summer. Will update periodically if I have any success or failure.
 
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