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1996 won't rev over 1/4 throttle in water. Completely rebuilt. What now?
- Thread starter TurnerBFC
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TurnerBFC
Active Member
Yes this was tried. No difference.
TurnerBFC
Active Member
Coil pack on my friends working and running xp was the same, so I'll rule that out.
I noticed when I was poking around the rear electrical box, then when I plugged the 6-wire harness in, my gauges lit up as if I pushed the start button with no key. Am I getting closer to my problem?
I noticed when I was poking around the rear electrical box, then when I plugged the 6-wire harness in, my gauges lit up as if I pushed the start button with no key. Am I getting closer to my problem?
Pull the choke half way out when you gas it off of idle. If it takes off then you know lack of fuel is your problem.
TurnerBFC
Active Member
manolocross
Well-Known Member
Recheck the rotary valve timing....
Before tearing everything out, have you checked for air leaks in the fuel system(loose connections)? One of mine had same symptoms and was a loose line, or sometimes a loose top/o-ring to the stock fuel filter shows similar problem.....
I use an air compressor(low psi) and pressurize the whole system. It should hold positive pressure.
Also check the two vents/check valves with air compressor. One under the hood is intake, one on left side of ski(under rub rail) is vent. I blow air in the intake, and it pressurizes system, then hear air come out vent. It's designed to hold 3-5psi(if memory serves) before vent activates.
Number 21 and 39 and here's the stock fuel filter(it may look/feel flush but actually leak under pressure).
You can also run with the gas cap slightly open to see if your intake check valve isn't working.
I use an air compressor(low psi) and pressurize the whole system. It should hold positive pressure.
Also check the two vents/check valves with air compressor. One under the hood is intake, one on left side of ski(under rub rail) is vent. I blow air in the intake, and it pressurizes system, then hear air come out vent. It's designed to hold 3-5psi(if memory serves) before vent activates.
Number 21 and 39 and here's the stock fuel filter(it may look/feel flush but actually leak under pressure).
You can also run with the gas cap slightly open to see if your intake check valve isn't working.
TurnerBFC
Active Member
I appreciate this. I'll go ahead and replace the check valves as one is broken into two pieces. But I ran with the cap off and it makes no difference. Also, I removed the water separator and added an inline fuel filter for high flow applications - I've used the same filter on my other 4 skis and it hasn't caused any issues. Everything I have tried to far has had 0 effect, no improvements at all on the running scenario.Before tearing everything out, have you checked for air leaks in the fuel system(loose connections)? One of mine had same symptoms and was a loose line, or sometimes a loose top/o-ring to the stock fuel filter shows similar problem.....
I use an air compressor(low psi) and pressurize the whole system. It should hold positive pressure.
Also check the two vents/check valves with air compressor. One under the hood is intake, one on left side of ski(under rub rail) is vent. I blow air in the intake, and it pressurizes system, then hear air come out vent. It's designed to hold 3-5psi(if memory serves) before vent activates.
Number 21 and 39 and here's the stock fuel filter(it may look/feel flush but actually leak under pressure).
You can also run with the gas cap slightly open to see if your intake check valve isn't working.
It's coming home today and I read about a guy who had similar symptoms and traced it to the white wire off the coil pack - poor connection and he couldn't go above 7mph.
jjsinaz
Active Member
This may be a long shot, but check that relay in the gray E-Box that controls the CDI. I had a bad one and it caused all sorts of problems. Check it for high resistance across the contacts (two red wires.) whenever the coil in the relay is energized (12v applied to the purple and black wires). It should be close to 0 ohms when the contacts are closed. Test it by removing and re-applying power to the relay coil several times. Mine was very intermittent
My symptoms were: Ran lousy sometimes and good other times, Sometimes would get 4 long beeps whenever you put the DESS key on, sometimes would get the two short beeps, but would not start (no spark).
Also, I believe the white wire you are referring to is the wire that comes from the CDI unit in the gray ebox that fires the coil, which could definitely cause the problem you describe too
My symptoms were: Ran lousy sometimes and good other times, Sometimes would get 4 long beeps whenever you put the DESS key on, sometimes would get the two short beeps, but would not start (no spark).
Also, I believe the white wire you are referring to is the wire that comes from the CDI unit in the gray ebox that fires the coil, which could definitely cause the problem you describe too
wfo speedracer
Active Member
Pistons in backwards ?
TurnerBFC
Active Member
Arrow was facing exhaust.
TurnerBFC
Active Member
These were confirmed for the VTS. Disconnected because the module is fried.
Right let's run through those checks before we keep wondering. I suggested clogged waterbox in post #2.
TurnerBFC
Active Member
I'm headed into the garage now - I will report any findings and update with photos. I hope I can find this issue and report my fix to help anyone else with similar issues.
Thanks, Matt!
manolocross
Well-Known Member
Did you check voltage regulator? I mean not just to unplug red wire but to replace with a known good one?
TurnerBFC
Active Member
Matt, please see the attached picture and view the youtube link and tell me what you think.
https://youtu.be/VF0pQPqhlpM
benjilafouine
Well-Known Member
A few times, timing was mentioned but I didn't see a post where you made sure timing was OK. I can tell you for sure that bad timing will produce similar results. You could be having a double issue as well, like carb rebuilt issue and bad timing at the same time, making it very difficult to troubleshoot.
I had a wrong timing (and bad carb rebuild by someone else) issue two years ago and the ski would never go past 1/4 throttle with a brand new engine. Drove me crazy. In fact, I believe your carb is "stuck" on low jet only and it will not kick in high jet (hence 1/4 throttle as you mention). Bad timing will do that. In may case, I was able to bring it to high jet/speed by playing with the throttle like pumping it for a good 30 seconds until it would slowly start to accelerate. But pushing the throttle all the way would almost kill the engine.
Benji.
I had a wrong timing (and bad carb rebuild by someone else) issue two years ago and the ski would never go past 1/4 throttle with a brand new engine. Drove me crazy. In fact, I believe your carb is "stuck" on low jet only and it will not kick in high jet (hence 1/4 throttle as you mention). Bad timing will do that. In may case, I was able to bring it to high jet/speed by playing with the throttle like pumping it for a good 30 seconds until it would slowly start to accelerate. But pushing the throttle all the way would almost kill the engine.
Benji.
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