1996 seadoo xp and spx both still have gray fuel lines

[Brholwer]

the spx runs great top speed around 52 mph, but the xp used to run good top speed about 60+ mph, but now it starts to surge and bog after 45 mph, already planning to replace the xp's gray fuel lines, because its running bad but should i replace the spx's gray fuel lines as well even though its running great?

 

[JJinSC]

Yes, it's only a matter of time. Get it over with. Why take the risk of running a lean condition and having engine failure. It is easy and inexpensive insurance.

 

[Dr Honda]

yep... what he said.

 

[marknkidz]

Yes, it's only a matter of time. Get it over with. Why take the risk of running a lean condition and having engine failure. It is easy and inexpensive insurance.

new too forum...

i have a 97 XP with the gray fuel lines.. i did notice when cleaning the fuel filter what looks like gray particles... what should be replaced?? where do you get the line?? is there a specific part number or is any fuel line from auto part store ok??

thanx!!

 

[JJinSC]

Some people do not replace the vent lines, I replaced all of the lines including the vent lines as this gave me the opportunity to check and clean the check valves and vents plus gave me peace of mind. Replace one line at a time so you do not get them mixed up and where they connect to confused. Make sure you put the check valve and pressure relief valves on the two vents (one inlet under seat and one outlet by pee hole under rub rail) in the right direction. Regular fuel line from any auto parts store will work. There are two different sizes in the 97xp, 1/4" and 5/16". Replace each line with the same size as the original. my '97 xp took 15' of 1/4" and 5' of 5/16". Use all stainless hose clamps to replace the factory clamps.

Take your time and it is not hard. Oh yeah, The secret to getting to the port hole under the seat on the 97 xp is to loosen the two nuts on the pivot bolts. These bolts are the pivot point on each forward swing arm of the seat. Pull them out of the fiberglass hole. The swing arms flex enough to do this. Just be careful not to scratch the fiberglass and not to loose the rubber and stainless washers. The seat can then be raised from the front and pivoted or suspended out of the way. This is much easier than loosening the shock in the rear. You have to get to the portal under the seat to access the fuel baffle where all of the lines attach to the tank. Also remove and clean the fuel selector valve.

Good luck

 

[marknkidz]

Some people do not replace the vent lines, I replaced all of the lines including the vent lines as this gave me the opportunity to check and clean the check valves and vents plus gave me peace of mind. Replace one line at a time so you do not get them mixed up and where they connect to confused. Make sure you put the check valve and pressure relief valves on the two vents (one inlet under seat and one outlet by pee hole under rub rail) in the right direction. Regular fuel line from any auto parts store will work. There are two different sizes in the 97xp, 1/4" and 5/16". Replace each line with the same size as the original. my '97 xp took 15' of 1/4" and 5' of 5/16". Use all stainless hose clamps to replace the factory clamps.

Take your time and it is not hard. Oh yeah, The secret to getting to the port hole under the seat on the 97 xp is to loosen the two nuts on the pivot bolts. These bolts are the pivot point on each forward swing arm of the seat. Pull them out of the fiberglass hole. The swing arms flex enough to do this. Just be careful not to scratch the fiberglass and not to loose the rubber and stainless washers. The seat can then be raised from the front and pivoted or suspended out of the way. This is much easier than loosening the shock in the rear. You have to get to the portal under the seat to access the fuel baffle where all of the lines attach to the tank. Also remove and clean the fuel selector valve.

Good luck

couple questions... going to attempt this...this weekend..

i looked at manual and for the life of me.. i cant figure out what bolts you say to loosen on the pivot portion?? where are they and how do you get to them?? the manual basically only shows the top and bottom shock mounts? are these towards front of seat or rear of seat??

Once loosened does the seat tilt foward towards front or backwards toward jet?

thanx for the help!! much apprecitated!! when i saw the lines going into the baffle under the seat... i was gonna give up!!

 

[JJinSC]

Your ski has two arms extending forward on the front of the seat. These arms (swing arms) attach to both sides of the ski's body each side of the engine compartment. Open the hood. The nuts will be just inside the engine compartment on both sides of the body of the ski. Loosen the nuts. Remove the nuts and washers. Be careful not to drop these as they will end up under your engine where they are hard to retrieve. Pay attention to the order of the washers so that you can put them back in their appropriate places. Once nuts and washers are removed (on each side of the ski), pull outward on each arm to pull the bolts out of their respective holes. The swing arms have flex to them. Be careful not to let the bolts scratch the fiber glass on the outside of ski. The front of the seat can now be lift up and out of the way. Notice their is also a washer on the outside of the body where the swing arm attaches. Make sure these are turned appropriate when re-applying the swing arms. The inside hole of these washers are not round and lock in place.

It really isn't hard. once you see it and do it once, there is nothing to it.

 

[JJinSC]

Let me know if you still have questions and I can post up a picture or two.

 

[marknkidz]

Your ski has two arms extending forward on the front of the seat. These arms (swing arms) attach to both sides of the ski's body each side of the engine compartment. Open the hood. The nuts will be just inside the engine compartment on both sides of the body of the ski. Loosen the nuts. Remove the nuts and washers. Be careful not to drop these as they will end up under your engine where they are hard to retrieve. Pay attention to the order of the washers so that you can put them back in their appropriate places. Once nuts and washers are removed (on each side of the ski), pull outward on each arm to pull the bolts out of their respective holes. The swing arms have flex to them. Be careful not to let the bolts scratch the fiber glass on the outside of ski. The front of the seat can now be lift up and out of the way. Notice their is also a washer on the outside of the body where the swing arm attaches. Make sure these are turned appropriate when re-applying the swing arms. The inside hole of these washers are not round and lock in place.

It really isn't hard. once you see it and do it once, there is nothing to it.

thanx!!

will attempt tomorrow!!