1996 SEADOO GTX, just bought it! First PWC,

[RodInEscondido]

You can find clear fuel line, which I have been using, actually it is blue tint. Insure it is actually fuel line; I purchased some quite a while back from aviation supply place so thought it was ok; turned out to be clear vinyl which on my first test ski turned hard within 2 weeks.

 

[Greg]

@thor409 here is a thread explaining how to upload to the site: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?78398-How-to-upload-an-image-on-Sea-Doo-Forum

 

[jimini cricket]

I was told to forget the transparent fuel line, and basically for the same reasons you just mentioned too... so, i bought regular black fuel line. thanks for the info though.:cheers:

 

[jimini cricket]

Well here are some pictures of my Doo! I started to take the carbs out for a rebuild. The engine bay looks clean because this pictures were taken after i wash it.

I will organize myself a little better so as i post my photos there will be a sequence to them. :cheers:

 

[jimini cricket]

Here are some pictures of the carbs removed from the engine block.

Any problems anyone see with this? I could not take the carbs out completely because i had to read some more in order to avoid any damages. This site is awesome! Will post some more pictures as i go along. :cheers:

 

[soccerdad]

What is that white thing behind the carbs in the picture?

Anyway, what I do is pull the two screws in each end bracket that is holding the cables. Then you can just slip out the cable balls from the carbs (the oil pump and throttle cables.) Then use a small allen wrench and loosen the setscrews on the choke cable on each carb. Then you can just pull off the choke cable and the carbs should be free to remove.

 

[jimini cricket]

What is that white thing behind the carbs in the picture?

Anyway, what I do is pull the two screws in each end bracket that is holding the cables. Then you can just slip out the cable balls from the carbs (the oil pump and throttle cables.) Then use a small allen wrench and loosen the setscrews on the choke cable on each carb. Then you can just pull off the choke cable and the carbs should be free to remove.

Hey soccerdad! Ha! That's my girl's bathroom mirror, LOL! i needed a mirror to look underneath the carbs so i could see what was going on under there and i didn't want to go to the auto parts store to get an inspection mirror, so i grabbed that one. Of course that is now the official inspection mirror of my humble shop because it got dirty and she told me to keep it and to buy her another one. :facepalm:

Thanks for the information...i wanted to take the muffler assembly to make it easier to get to the carbs, but i noticed that there were two gaskets there. I would like to take it out, are there any issues with taking the muffler out and connecting it back on once the carbs are in?

:cheers: everyone!

 

[soccerdad]

Ah yes, stealing stuff to work on the ski from your kids. I have done that as well. I assume you are talking about removing the exhaust manifold, the white part. I wouldn't take it off. But do use that cool mirror and look at the bottom of the head pipe, the first purple part. There are two plugs welded there. They look just like the top one. They love to start leaking. If you see any signs of corrosion, the pipe will have to come off and they need to be replaced. The Shamu thread shows one.

 

[dannyual767]

thor, you asked about fuel line that wasn't the standard black from the auto parts store. A lot of guys have negative opinions of the transparent colored fuel lines but I've been using 1/4" ID fuel line from here for the last 3 1/2 years:

http://fuel-line.com/

It is still flexible, supple and working great. I bought a bunch (blue) since it was less expensive in bulk and I have leftover fuel line that I wouldn't hesitate to use for my next fuel system plumbing job.

Other fuel lines from other sources may not be the same product and may not give the same good results.

This is just my experience and I'm very happy with their fuel line.

 

[jimini cricket]

thor, you asked about fuel line that wasn't the standard black from the auto parts store. A lot of guys have negative opinions of the transparent colored fuel lines but I've been using 1/4" ID fuel line from here for the last 3 1/2 years:

http://fuel-line.com/

It is still flexible, supple and working great. I bought a bunch (blue) since it was less expensive in bulk and I have leftover fuel line that I wouldn't hesitate to use for my next fuel system plumbing job.

Other fuel lines from other sources may not be the same product and may not give the same good results.

This is just my experience and I'm very happy with their fuel line.

Thanks for the suggestion, i already bought fuel line, black, from the auto parts, at first i thought about sending it back, but, i decided to go ahead and use it, because i want to get done and everyone have told me to use it, so i am almost done plumbing the Doo, next, rebuild the carbs. Hey, but thank you for the heads up about the fuel line. I might try it in my next project. Thanks and :cheers:

 

[jimini cricket]

Well here are some more pictures of my project. The fuel water separator was full of some gunk, cleaned it and reinstalled it, darn near took the boat apart. First had to transfer all the oil from the oil tank, pinch the oil lines, disconnect the electronic cable to the oil tank and removed the oil sensor? then i removed the baffle from the fuel tank and removed the fuel tank and the oil tank.

So far is all about taking out and replacing stuff, nothing technical yet.

As you can see i took the carbs out and i am ready to rebuild them, but been too busy to tackle it.

I received all the parts that i ordered from Minnetonka4me and it was FAST! I think it took a total of three days, way to go Minnetonka4me i could not be happier! Thanks much buddy!!:thumbsup: :cheers:

 

[jimini cricket]

Ok, the first picture is of the oil tank. On top of the oil tank is the unit that reads the amount of oil in the tank? As you can see there is like a valve of some sort attached to the unit, anybody knows what that is and for what? and is there supposed to be another line attached to that? and then where does it goes? The last picture has the oil unit on top of the cylinders sitting there and you can see the little valve attached to it.

Also, there is a translucent line that its connected to a y in the front. From there it connects to an orifice in bow (see third picture. Then it goes towards the back and unfortunately i do not know where it is supposed to connect? Does anyone knows where it is supposed to connect in the back.

 

[jimini cricket]

Remove the seat, there are two indentations that fit beer bottle very well...

You mean the air intake holes under the seat? LOL!

 

[jimini cricket]

Ah yes, stealing stuff to work on the ski from your kids. I have done that as well. I assume you are talking about removing the exhaust manifold, the white part. I wouldn't take it off. But do use that cool mirror and look at the bottom of the head pipe, the first purple part. There are two plugs welded there. They look just like the top one. They love to start leaking. If you see any signs of corrosion, the pipe will have to come off and they need to be replaced. The Shamu thread shows one.

LOL! Today i had to buy a new mirror! Hey i looked at those plugs and they are not leaking. :hurray: Thanks for the heads up! :cheers:

 

[jimini cricket]

"You should replace all lines as with the 2-stroke system, the fuel and oil is mixed and travels all through the engine. For example, the pulse line to the fuel pump. Though no fuel truly runs through the line, the air within the crank case will have ethanol in it. Many have not replaced the vent line and not had issues. In my opinion, I would replace it for the simple fact that 98% will be replaced, might as well complete the job."


Hi Coastiejoe!

Thanks for the advice!:cheers::thumbsup:

 

[soccerdad]

View attachment 31140View attachment 31141View attachment 31142View attachment 31143

Ok, the first picture is of the oil tank. On top of the oil tank is the unit that reads the amount of oil in the tank? As you can see there is like a valve of some sort attached to the unit, anybody knows what that is and for what? and is there supposed to be another line attached to that? and then where does it goes? The last picture has the oil unit on top of the cylinders sitting there and you can see the little valve attached to it.

Also, there is a translucent line that its connected to a y in the front. From there it connects to an orifice in bow (see third picture. Then it goes towards the back and unfortunately i do not know where it is supposed to connect? Does anyone knows where it is supposed to connect in the back.View attachment 31144View attachment 31145View attachment 31146View attachment 31147View attachment 31148

That is the oil float switch. It just switches on the low oil light. The fitting is just a one way valve and it lets air into the tank. No hoses needed on it. The other one that goes out the rub rail is a vent for an old acid cell battery. You don't need it connected to anything. You could remove it if you want or keep it as a spare piece of tubing.

While the fuel baffle is out, put an ohm meter on the two wires in the connector and see if the readings on your meter change when you turn it upside down. Also, you can pop the bottom of the baffle off and pull out the float. Many of them get fuel logged and won't actually float any more. You can get one on ebay. Tonka has them as well. If it does work, you can use it, but if you find issues with the gauge not reading right, you will have to pull the baffle and replace it.

 

[jimini cricket]

That is the oil float switch. It just switches on the low oil light. The fitting is just a one way valve and it lets air into the tank. No hoses needed on it. The other one that goes out the rub rail is a vent for an old acid cell battery. You don't need it connected to anything. You could remove it if you want or keep it as a spare piece of tubing.

While the fuel baffle is out, put an ohm meter on the two wires in the connector and see if the readings on your meter change when you turn it upside down. Also, you can pop the bottom of the baffle off and pull out the float. Many of them get fuel logged and won't actually float any more. You can get one on ebay. Tonka has them as well. If it does work, you can use it, but if you find issues with the gauge not reading right, you will have to pull the baffle and replace it.

Thanks for the info! I am about to open the carbs, (worrying and stressed :svengo So here we go!...will post pics later...:driving:

 

[jimini cricket]

Hello! Back again, but i have a question before i post the carb pictures, how do you empty all the oil from the engine? please be tender, dummy here and dummies are sensitive! :willy_nilly::willy_nilly::willy_nilly: lol! I pinched the two lines coming out from the oil tank, one is larger than the other, one has a filter, the other one does not. One goes to the oil pump and the other goes under the engine. I will assume that there is oil in the crankcase? How do you drain that? :leaving: Thanks ahead! Going to the manual though..:cheers: but clarification will be appreciated!:cheers:

 

[soccerdad]

Actually there are 3 oil lines. The one with the filter supplies the pump to the oil injection and the one going under the motor should be a vent/return. If the line you see is coming from the bottom of the tank, it really goes to the front of the motor under the carbs, not under the motor. Another line actually goes from the back of the motor to the top of the tank. Basically the oil is supplied to the rotary valve cavity from the oil tank. It just goes in and fills the cavity. It does not circulate. If that oil is used up or seaps into the motor, it just gets kept full with the oil from the tank. The other line is a vent and should go back to the top of the oil tank I think. There should be a separate line from the bottom of the oil tank to the front (carb side) of the motor that is the supply line for the RV. You really don't need to drain out the oil in the bottom of the motor. You can do it, but not sure many people do. You have to use a suction pump to suck out the oil.

 

[jimini cricket]

Actually there are 3 oil lines. The one with the filter supplies the pump to the oil injection and the one going under the motor should be a vent/return. If the line you see is coming from the bottom of the tank, it really goes to the front of the motor under the carbs, not under the motor. Another line actually goes from the back of the motor to the top of the tank. Basically the oil is supplied to the rotary valve cavity from the oil tank. It just goes in and fills the cavity. It does not circulate. If that oil is used up or seaps into the motor, it just gets kept full with the oil from the tank. The other line is a vent and should go back to the top of the oil tank I think. There should be a separate line from the bottom of the oil tank to the front (carb side) of the motor that is the supply line for the RV. You really don't need to drain out the oil in the bottom of the motor. You can do it, but not sure many people do. You have to use a suction pump to suck out the oil.

"Actually there are 3 oil lines. The one with the filter supplies the pump to the oil injection and the one going under the motor should be a vent/return" Correct, it is in the right place. Thanks for the help Soccerdad! :cheers:

Everything else is correct, there are two oil lines coming from the oil tank, one goes to the oil pump and has an inline filter. The other goes to a fitting under and to the left of the carbs. The other one goes to the top of the tank and it is a vent line and it disappears under the engine somewhere to a fitting under there. I saw it in the manual also, so that is correct.



Today was a nightmare, i finally got to the carbs, and yes there was some goopy stuff on the fittings, and the filters were very dirty, but i didn't see any dirt inside that i could shake a stick at. But the bad part was that it appeared as if the carbs had been rebuild before and the screws were stripped already. I tried to use an impact hoping that the bit would catch a snag and turned it, but no candy, it made it worse. I got the screws out of the other carb and one screw was kind of almost stripped already, but the impact grabbed it and took it out.

Any suggestions as to where i could go from here? I was thinking machine shop? I have a drill press and a good vice, i thought to drill them and then use an extractor bit to pull them out? Can i heat this carb material? I don't think so...looks like magnesium?

So, i am stuck, other than that, everything looks good, all the fuel lines are in, everything back together, but the carbs.

This is how it looks now. I took the Doo to a car wash after i took the tanks out, it cleaned out really good. Now those carbs...:willy_nilly:

Hey Soccerdad! Thank you very much for the help, yes sir! Thank you! :cheers::thumbsup:


and yes i did change the two small oil pump lines that go to the carbs.. Again... thanks!:cheers:

 

[jimini cricket]

this is how it used to look....

It was filthy...


and now! atriot:

 

[soccerdad]

bummer on the screws. I have had to drill the heads out to remove the plate before. Just use a drill that is just smaller than the hole through the plate and only drill deep enough to remove the head. Then remove the plate. you should have enough screw left to remove with a pair of needle nose pliers. The one I did was not that thight in the hole, it was really just stuck on the head. So once the head was gone, it came out easily. Your issue will be getting screws quickly. Search around and I have seen sizes for the screws posted. I know [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] has them, so he may be able to get them to you quickly. Not sure how fast you are working. I know it is a bitch to stop and wait for parts. I would not use a torch. Your clean up looks awesome. It will be a sweet ski when it is done. These older skis can try your patience!. Both of my GTX's have been giving me fits lately. But they are a blast to ride! Keep up the good work.

 

[jimini cricket]

bummer on the screws. I have had to drill the heads out to remove the plate before. Just use a drill that is just smaller than the hole through the plate and only drill deep enough to remove the head. Then remove the plate. you should have enough screw left to remove with a pair of needle nose pliers. The one I did was not that thight in the hole, it was really just stuck on the head. So once the head was gone, it came out easily. Your issue will be getting screws quickly. Search around and I have seen sizes for the screws posted. I know [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] has them, so he may be able to get them to you quickly. Not sure how fast you are working. I know it is a bitch to stop and wait for parts. I would not use a torch. Your clean up looks awesome. It will be a sweet ski when it is done. These older skis can try your patience!. Both of my GTX's have been giving me fits lately. But they are a blast to ride! Keep up the good work.

Hey thanks for the compliments! it is looking sharp, i removed some decals that someone had placed on the ski and it looks better. As far as the carbs are concerned? I really did not wanted to wait to remove the screws, bummer. I decided that i did not wanted to deal with it myself, i have no time, so, i am going to let the machine shop deal with it, like that they will get me the new screws, i am also buying another set of carbs just to have them ready and to play with them. I want to buy another 1996 GTX once i am done with this one. Hey thanks for the help soccerdad!

 

[soccerdad]

The forum gets lots of the same questions. Many long timers and mods stay out of it if someone is actively engaged in helping a problem. It gets confusing when you get a bunch of differing opinions. If you are around long enough you will see some types of threads gets lots of attention and others are more of a back and forth like this. Sorry you feel you are not getting good attention. Not sure what extra answers you need.


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[jimini cricket]

The forum gets lots of the same questions. Many long timers and mods stay out of it if someone is actively engaged in helping a problem. It gets confusing when you get a bunch of differing opinions. If you are around long enough you will see some types of threads gets lots of attention and others are more of a back and forth like this. Sorry you feel you are not getting good attention. Not sure what extra answers you need.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am happy, happy, happy, and i am grateful for your accurate information Soccerdad!
I am also extremely frustrated now with these carbs, doggone screws, there is no way to get to that small screw in there, no space.

And who is saying that i am not getting good attention? I am happy, happy, happy! Now if only was tomorrow already so i can get these screws out..