1996 GTX need some guidance

[Shanker]

Hello Everyone,

Have a 96 GTX that I purchased from a dealer, ski only has 58 hours on it, The ski was running when i picked it up, they programmed a key for me and I confirmed it does turn on the machine, both are reading 150 so that is good. The couple things that were bad with the ski was the fuel lines, instrument and the welch plugs, I installed new fuel lines, filter, fuel shutoff/reserve welch plugs were welded in, fixed the instrument has been fixed with a new film, flushed out old oil and filed everything up, new battery and went to fire the unit up and its dead?.

I have checked all fuses and all are metering OK, I have jumped the solenoid just to make sure and I have the stater and engine turning over. I know it's a wiring issue but how does the whole system work.

DSS key goes in and energizes the system on and then turns on the rest of the system?
does the display cluster have DSS control or does it go directly to the grey box in the front.

Any help would be great to try and trouble shoot this. My son was so excited that we finally have everything put back together just to have a dead ski now.

Thanks in advance.

Steve

 

[Shanker]

made some progress, seems I had one connector off that I missed putting back on. I have dash lights and I can get the starter to engage. moving in the right direction now, piezo is gone.

new question, since I sucked out all the old oil how much do you put back in to the engine, the line i'm talking about is the line on the top of the oil tank.

Thanks

 

[artr]

Hi. 96 GTX is a nice machine but is truly a labor of love. Since you said you sucked all the oil out I assume that was from the tank and not from the crank case of the engine. If that is what you did then the new oil that you put into the tank will circulate through the engine and also feed the carburetors.
The piezoelectric buzzer is worth fixing because it will tell you of any problems when you insert key if you don't get the normal two beeps. There is a YouTube video on how to replace it with a Radio Shack part.
You did not mention what it is doing now that you resolved some of the issues. If it is cranking and not starting then fully charge and load test the battery. On a 96 GTX if the battery is not above 10 V while cranking then the CDI unit will not fire the plugs but the engine will crank. Good luck.

 

[POPPS]

I don't understand putting in new Welch plugs, this a not a chain saw?,,right?

 

[etemplet]

You may not have installed the negative wire from the rear electrical box TO the BATTERY. It is easy to miss your first time. If you didn't mess with anything else electrical... look for a small black wire coming off the top of the rear electrical box and connect it to the negative cable along with th negative cable on the battery. I think you'll be all set ofr your next adventure. These things need a good bit of attention initially but after you get it right... they are sweet. I Have two of them. 1996 and a 1997.

 

[POPPS]

Templet,,,great call,,,so easy to miss if you didn't see it the very first time you had the ski...and that wire tends to weaken over time,,,

 

[etemplet]

Templet,,,great call,,,so easy to miss if you didn't see it the very first time you had the ski...and that wire tends to weaken over time,,,

It got me, LOL

 

[Shanker]

Thanks for the replies, I figured it out. seems when I put the exhaust back on I forgot to plug back the connector by the oil pump, I have all instrument on, and cranking over. Still need to prime the gas lines.

for the Welch plugs? is that not the 4 freeze plugs or the sand exit cast? I added a picture of it.

Have the carbon seal to do, when you remove the shaft out, what are you using on the engine side
for the claps that hold the boot on, was looking at getting the correct clips but the tool to clap the one
back on is $70.00

 

[POPPS]

Sorry, never heard the term "Welch plugs" for those plugs, why are you replacing the carbon ring,,is it leaking?,,,,I cheat,,,I use zip ies in a pinch,,,I just make sure they are narrow enough to fit in the slot on the pto.

 

[GGuillot]

Have the carbon seal to do, when you remove the shaft out, what are you using on the engine side
for the claps that hold the boot on, was looking at getting the correct clips but the tool to clap the one
back on is $70.00

I use T304 stainless steel ties, they grab and hold better than plastic zip ties. With a small pair of needle nose pliers I twist them tight and snip the excess with a pair of dykes.

Pack of 10 for about $5 shipped, it'll last you for a while. Stainless Steel Cable Ties - 8" (Pack of 10) All Purpose Weather Outdoor Use | eBay

 

[Shanker]

Thanks guys, the carbon ring was worn out and the boot when you pull it back it showed cracks all around so at this point spend the money and I wont have to worry about it for a long time. I also wanted to clean and re grease everything in the drive line.

Kids will be using this more then me and I want to make sure everything is good to go for them.

I will definitely buy the stainless ties, that will work perfect and they are a great price.

Any tips on priming the fuel lines, I don't have a suction pump. Seen a video that someone used a manual suction pump to prime the lines.

 

[Shanker]

fuel lines are primed, engine is running now. have to set the idle as i'm between 3200-3300.
great feeling to know all the work I did for the first time is good.

Once I get the remaining parts in then it will be water test time.

Thanks again for everyone that helped me out so far

 

[POPPS]

fuel lines are primed, engine is running now. have to set the idle as i'm between 3200-3300.
great feeling to know all the work I did for the first time is good.

Once I get the remaining parts in then it will be water test time.

Thanks again for everyone that helped me out so far

GG,,,,great idea!

2500 rpm on my the trailor, 1500 in the water is the usual rule for non jetboats.

 

[Shanker]

So took it out for the first run after putting the carbon ring kit on and doing all the work to it, the RPM's were a little low 1450 so i need to turn it up just a little, Ran great for the first 10 minutes with RPM hitting 6000, then started to sputter had to play with the throttle to give me 4000-5000 RPM could not hit 6000 RPM, once in a while it would
go to 6000 pull hard then baug out again.

The carbs have been rebuilt with original parts. could it be the settings with the carb?

Any help would be great.

 

[POPPS]

Could be fuel delivery issues upstream,,,run your in line from the pickup directly to the carb,,,to help rule out upstream components...

 

[PorknBeans]

The carbs should be fully rebuilt with new Mikuni parts. All consumable parts like the diaphragm, internal gaskets etc. should be replaced. The needle and seat valves should be 1.5 and are not included in the Mikuni rebuild kits. These are purchased separately. You should also verify the Pilot and Main jet sizes to ensure the correct jets are actually installed in the carbs. Main jets are 142.5 and Pilot jets are a 70. The sizes are stamped into the top of the Pilot jets and stamped on the sides of the Main Jets. After rebuilding the carbs and verifying the jets and needles/seat valves. Turn the Low speed screws(the screws that sits the lowest on the carb body) counterclockwise 1 full turn out. The High Speed screws should be turned all the way in(clockwise) until the screw tip is lightly seated and cannot be turned anymore. Adjust the engine idle to 3000 rpm on the trailer with the water hose connected(only do this for about a minute. As the carbon seal has no water to cool itself). Or 1,500 rpm with the ski in the water with the jet pump loaded. After setting the idle speed correctly. Blip the throttle and see how the engine responds. Does it hesitate? Or is the throttle response crisp? If it hesitates and you need to feather the throttle to clear out the fuel. Turn the screws in SLIGHTLY! Allow the engine to idle for a minute. And blip the throttle again. Keep adjusting until a crisp response is achieved with zero hesitation. With each correct adjustment. You should keep gaining rpms until you start to lose rpms. At this point, turn the screws in slightly. And keep adjusting until a crisp throttle response with zero hesitation is achieved. Install new NGK BR8ES spark plugs gapped to 0.020" - 0.024".

 

[GGuillot]

the RPM's were a little low 1450

I have my skis tuned in the 1400 range, 1450 is perfect.