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1996 GTS overheating

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mokofoko

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So, straight to the point--my 96 GTS is overheating after only short runs (20-30 minutes). At first I thought the temperature sensor was going bad, I got a replacement used sensor, seemed to test out fine (boiling water test--no continuity even at 210 F), but I'm still getting a continuous squeal after only 20-30 minutes of running. While in the water, the top of the motor really has been too hot to touch (even the inside of the engine compartment feels hot). I checked the outside temp of the top of the engine after getting home, and it was a bit north of 165 F (inside temp could be higher?)--I flush the engine and the top and sides immediately cool down by 50+ degrees. Can I assume this is a waterflow problem?

1. Checking the pisser ports, there's a freely flowing stream coming from the top of the tuned pipe--but nothing from the cylinderhead pisser, and I recall it used to shoot out in irregular bursts. Checked both pisser hoses, no obstructions. Poked wires into the pisser ports on the hull, no obstructions.
2. I checked the intake opening and intake hoses leading to tuned pipe--no obstructions.
3. I disconnected the tuned pipe, hooked up hoses and sprayed water into both fittings--smaller flows to the exhaust area, larger exits at top of tuned pipe and flows freely from both divides to the manifold.
4. I also did a cursory check of the other clear hoses from engine leading to the large water exit on the hull--water in each, and the hull hole is completely unobstructed.
5. Pulled off the motor top plate, peered into cylinder jugs, all appears fine--can't really get beyond the cylinderhead plate as I suspect 1-2 bolts are on the verge of snapping, no tools to take care of that right now :facepalm:

I've read elsewhere that engines run in sandy areas will result in buildup blocking where the exhaust manifold divides water at the engine jugs--and this unit is frequently used at the beach. I have no spare gaskets, but should I remove the exhaust manifold and to try and dig out anything that might be inside?

Any other ideas on what it could be before I attack the engine? Could it be an exhaust problem (engine compartment does get quite hot)?

TIA--will take any ideas--I've only got a day or two to mess with this before it has to be put back together for storage...
 
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Took off the exhaust manifold just now, clearly a little crystallized buildup along the insides--but no obstructions--water flows freely. The water exit valve (right-angle) at the bottom of the manifold does spit out water when flowing through the divider. I'm unable to position myself to see inside the holes on the engine, but I felt no blockage on either side. I stuck a wire into both water divides and was able to move them around--didn't feel like there was anything inside there. The exhaust holes felt fine.

I really expected to find that the exhaust manifold holes had been blocked up. Not sure what else to check at this point
 
Yes, extreme patience in working the head bolts loose; it is a real PITA when they break. But, this is probably where the problem lies if you have no flow out of the cooling line at the top of the engine.
 
I put the GTS back together and had it stored today--the buzzer didn't go off, but my temp gauge (placed on top plate) was reading about 195 F after maybe 20 minutes of runtime--that can't be good. I can confirm that some small amount of water was making it out of the cylinderhead pisser in short spurts--but after only 10 minutes it was coming out as a spray/mist--steam? The temp sensor should go off at boiling temps, no?

I guess I'll have to invest in some reverse bits for next time, because I don't think there's any saving two of those bad bolts (next to each other). Having any bolts out would risk allowing water to leak into the piston area? So if any bolt breaks it would need to be immediately repaired, correct?
 
There are various ideas discussed on this forum for stubborn bolts, I will mention a couple that have been useful for me or that I recall from others; I cannot emphasize it enough that patience is the key.

Shock: tapping the bolt with a hammer lightly, I have used a spring-loaded (or regular) center punch at times against the flats of the bolt head

chemicals: various break-free type things, there was a suggestion by one of the members here to use a mixture of acetone and transmission fluid. Problem is that the stuff must get to the place where the freeze-up is which mostly is in the threads and the bolt head is sealing off that fluid access.

heat: carefully applied is effective, but in this case you cannot get to the threads, just the head of the bolt.

At some point you may need to grind off the bolt heads and pop off the head leaving the shank of the bolt to work with plus giving access to the threads to use solutions.

You are correct, you need all the bolts.

I would recommend getting the head gasket set, they are not very expensive.

Good luck,

Rod
 
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