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1995 XP Project Questions
- Thread starter Mem1guy
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XPs are always fun !!
If a lot of oil came out it is because the inner crank seals are bad. The only permanent fix is a reman crank.
Would you be able to post a picture of the whole ski? Just interested to see what kind of shape the body is in
I’m not sure if it’s worth restoring with it needing a new top end, possible reman crank, carbs rebuilt, pump rebuild and all other incidentals. I’ve seen a few post about adding 518 to the seal grooves for the bad inner seals. Is that a possible fix?
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The body looks very nice, graphics are all intact too. Yes, things have a way of adding up quickly with them. I don’t have much experience at all but IMO if it wasn’t for the rust inside the cylinders I would say install a valve to the rotary shaft gear and just make sure to turn it on to allow oil in before driving but with the rust on the cylinder walls I would think it’s ingest water and that the crank bearings may be on there way out from rust. I’ve never had the case split so I don’t know about the 518 loctite on the seals, I would doubt that would work but what about taking it apart and maybe there’s a product that would soften them up a bit? I don’t really know. I’m not much help, sorry. Someone else will chime in that knows but I’m thinking maybe a donor engine would be the best idea. Doesn’t cost anything to tear it apart though and see what you have
There are different degrees of leakage on the crankshaft seals. Most can be fixed with a butterfly valve in the feed line. Depending on how long the engine sat, you may not have a bad leak at all. My wifes 787 will lock the engine after 2 weeks of sitting but with the valve the ski can sit for a year and still crank right up and it runs great. I think the ski is in great shape externally.
I have saved a few skis with water in the engines and they are still running. I inspect them very closely as best I can and then if it looks and feels OK I flood the lower end with oil and work it around. I'll leave it sit a few days.
Top ends are easy but I'd do full maintenance as well. Good Luck !!
I have saved a few skis with water in the engines and they are still running. I inspect them very closely as best I can and then if it looks and feels OK I flood the lower end with oil and work it around. I'll leave it sit a few days.
Top ends are easy but I'd do full maintenance as well. Good Luck !!
it would be a good idea to do a leak down test of the crankcase, just keep in mind that initially you may have some loss of air pressure to the rv cavity so let it sit and apply more air to the desired pressure, most people on this site will say to pressurize to 8 pounds and the manual says to 6 pounds, good thing is I believe new oil seals will fix the crankcase leak if there is one and they are relatively inexpensive. Around 25.00 a piece, get OEM if you need them, seadoo warehouse stocks them
Going to take a long time to get this decal off, probably have 2 hours in now with hair dryer and plastic razor scrapper. Just can’t get any large pieces
$15 Harbor Freight heat gun and a a razor scraper. Comes right off but take a little patience. You can also spray some Turtle Wax Sticker Remover. That's all I use and it doesn't take a lot of effort. You'll get the knack. First you heat the area you are doing just a bit then warm the spot you are scraping. With some decals you can get them to peel but you have to keep direct heat away from the area you are working. Doesn't damage the paint either. Good Luck with it.
I use the metal scraper where the blade slides into the front. It takes a firm base and it is a good tool for the job.
The leak I am talking about being excessive is the internal lip seals for the rotary valve cavity. Gotta rebuild the crankshaft to replaces those 2.
I just realized that I posted to the wrong thread. Sorry Meme1guy. Thanks for the tips Etemplet
Still good info.
No problem @burtshaver2021. You need one of these eraser wheels. It’ll take decals off quick.
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Look CLOSELY. It is the little line nearly 9:00. That is the mark on the mag housing the adjacent mark is "under the washer." One more doesn't do any good.
This one is a little clearer. 
I have a dumb question, but what is that mark lining up with?
I was thinking the same thing, I think I read somewhere to use a chisel and mark a corresponding mark
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