1995 XP Project Questions

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

Mem1guy

Premium Member
Premium Member
I have been gifted the above ski. The motor is locked up and was pulled from ski today. I am curious about this rotary valve cover screw hole. The bottom hole towards the mag seems to go all the way into the crankcase. Can I post short video?
 
To be honest they didn't really give you anything. It's junk. LOL Post some pictures. :D XPs are always fun !!
 
Do the bottom 2 rotary cover bolt holes open to the crankcase?
 

Attachments

  • AC61344C-C3E8-4B83-860E-4DD735537647.jpeg
    AC61344C-C3E8-4B83-860E-4DD735537647.jpeg
    306 KB · Views: 21
  • 08B737B9-1197-4BC7-8849-2D49599C2D4E.jpeg
    08B737B9-1197-4BC7-8849-2D49599C2D4E.jpeg
    383.6 KB · Views: 15
  • 83B9F659-FCF1-487C-BD15-B50B6ECD3172.jpeg
    83B9F659-FCF1-487C-BD15-B50B6ECD3172.jpeg
    379.4 KB · Views: 17
  • F896EACB-31DA-439F-980C-A5A99654B013.jpeg
    F896EACB-31DA-439F-980C-A5A99654B013.jpeg
    354.7 KB · Views: 17
Yes they go through.
that is going to need a full rebuild and bore with all the rust on the cylinders. Water in the crankcase?
 
I was just surprised when I removed those bottom bolts and oil started running out. I haven’t split the case yet but I don’t see any rust through the intake. Pulled the mag cover off and it’s really clean. Going to get PTO off and then open it up.
 
I was just surprised when I removed those bottom bolts and oil started running out. I haven’t split the case yet but I don’t see any rust through the intake. Pulled the mag cover off and it’s really clean. Going to get PTO off and then open it up.
If a lot of oil came out it is because the inner crank seals are bad. The only permanent fix is a reman crank.
 
Would you be able to post a picture of the whole ski? Just interested to see what kind of shape the body is in
 
I’m not sure if it’s worth restoring with it needing a new top end, possible reman crank, carbs rebuilt, pump rebuild and all other incidentals. I’ve seen a few post about adding 518 to the seal grooves for the bad inner seals. Is that a possible fix?
 

Attachments

  • B78AF2C3-2ED9-4514-AA70-8CBB084715DC.jpeg
    B78AF2C3-2ED9-4514-AA70-8CBB084715DC.jpeg
    346.3 KB · Views: 13
  • E39A5482-DC11-4FB9-B229-388CAD37C495.jpeg
    E39A5482-DC11-4FB9-B229-388CAD37C495.jpeg
    365.8 KB · Views: 13
  • 92545CB0-F65B-45F8-A80E-2F8611061396.jpeg
    92545CB0-F65B-45F8-A80E-2F8611061396.jpeg
    396.2 KB · Views: 14
The body looks very nice, graphics are all intact too. Yes, things have a way of adding up quickly with them. I don’t have much experience at all but IMO if it wasn’t for the rust inside the cylinders I would say install a valve to the rotary shaft gear and just make sure to turn it on to allow oil in before driving but with the rust on the cylinder walls I would think it’s ingest water and that the crank bearings may be on there way out from rust. I’ve never had the case split so I don’t know about the 518 loctite on the seals, I would doubt that would work but what about taking it apart and maybe there’s a product that would soften them up a bit? I don’t really know. I’m not much help, sorry. Someone else will chime in that knows but I’m thinking maybe a donor engine would be the best idea. Doesn’t cost anything to tear it apart though and see what you have
 
There are different degrees of leakage on the crankshaft seals. Most can be fixed with a butterfly valve in the feed line. Depending on how long the engine sat, you may not have a bad leak at all. My wifes 787 will lock the engine after 2 weeks of sitting but with the valve the ski can sit for a year and still crank right up and it runs great. I think the ski is in great shape externally.

I have saved a few skis with water in the engines and they are still running. I inspect them very closely as best I can and then if it looks and feels OK I flood the lower end with oil and work it around. I'll leave it sit a few days.

Top ends are easy but I'd do full maintenance as well. Good Luck !!
 
it would be a good idea to do a leak down test of the crankcase, just keep in mind that initially you may have some loss of air pressure to the rv cavity so let it sit and apply more air to the desired pressure, most people on this site will say to pressurize to 8 pounds and the manual says to 6 pounds, good thing is I believe new oil seals will fix the crankcase leak if there is one and they are relatively inexpensive. Around 25.00 a piece, get OEM if you need them, seadoo warehouse stocks them
 
A636595F-AF75-4070-A53F-170DE20F6B09.jpegGoing to take a long time to get this decal off, probably have 2 hours in now with hair dryer and plastic razor scrapper. Just can’t get any large pieces
 
View attachment 61457Going to take a long time to get this decal off, probably have 2 hours in now with hair dryer and plastic razor scrapper. Just can’t get any large pieces

$15 Harbor Freight heat gun and a a razor scraper. Comes right off but take a little patience. You can also spray some Turtle Wax Sticker Remover. That's all I use and it doesn't take a lot of effort. You'll get the knack. First you heat the area you are doing just a bit then warm the spot you are scraping. With some decals you can get them to peel but you have to keep direct heat away from the area you are working. Doesn't damage the paint either. Good Luck with it.

I use the metal scraper where the blade slides into the front. It takes a firm base and it is a good tool for the job.
 
it would be a good idea to do a leak down test of the crankcase, just keep in mind that initially you may have some loss of air pressure to the rv cavity so let it sit and apply more air to the desired pressure, most people on this site will say to pressurize to 8 pounds and the manual says to 6 pounds, good thing is I believe new oil seals will fix the crankcase leak if there is one and they are relatively inexpensive. Around 25.00 a piece, get OEM if you need them, seadoo warehouse stocks them

The leak I am talking about being excessive is the internal lip seals for the rotary valve cavity. Gotta rebuild the crankshaft to replaces those 2.
 
No problem @burtshaver2021. You need one of these eraser wheels. It’ll take decals off quick.
 

Attachments

  • C090F2A1-C19B-4629-B5B4-E1ABD806E3D3.png
    C090F2A1-C19B-4629-B5B4-E1ABD806E3D3.png
    465.7 KB · Views: 11
Well, I got the PTO off and the flywheel. Do I need to look for any timing marks before I remove the armature plate?
 
@etemplet Are you pranking me here? I’m not seeing any lines or marks to line up. What am I looking for?
Look CLOSELY. It is the little line nearly 9:00. That is the mark on the mag housing the adjacent mark is "under the washer." One more doesn't do any good. :) This one is a little clearer.

2002 GTI 717 Engine Mag Align  (3).JPG
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top