Can someone explain the best way to remove the carbs from a 1995 XP. I am at the lake this weekend and dropped it in the water today and it starts right up, idles and then bogs down as soon as I give it any throttle. I have limited resources up here in the mountains so I was hoping I would be able to clean the carbs and solve the issue. I just need to know where to start! And also what specific tools do I need so I can make one trip to the store to get everything at once. Thanks!
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1995 XP carb removal
- Thread starter Nji911
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I think it has an aftermarket open K&N filter on it because I can see the bolts you are talking about. Any idea what the bolt size might be for those so I can get the right wrench? Also, if I pull the choke lever while riding it, it will rev up briefly and then bog right back down. Does this sound like a carb issue? I am going to do a whole carb rebuild when I get home and really dig deeper but I really wanted it on the water this week if I can!
ocod
Well-Known Member
Yip.
Your limited if you have no tools.
If you just got ski there are things you should go over before hitting the water though
If you have grey fuel lines those should be replaced with carbs being completely torn down and only use OEM replacement rebuild from mikuni.
Check compression and see you are near standard 150
There is a procedure to check "pop off" pressure in carb.
It becomes important when ski does not run right.
i pulled the carbs today and cleaned them out. I'm thinking I'm going to need a whole new set of carbs because there was actually rust and corrosion inside the carbs. Once I put them back in it ran better but only at half choke. Any ideas why I am needing to run at half choke? I adjusted the high and low speed screws but it still did not make enough of a difference to stop the bogging.
I'd say your running rich as hell if your needing a choke, which means more gas. I wouldn't ride it till the carbs a fixed. See how much some good used carbs are and try that? Has there ever been water in there because that can cause rust as well? Mine runs good on full throttle but from the start sometimes there is a slight bog/sputter. If I take the time to pull it apart I'm just going to spend the extra 40-57 buck for the full rebuild kit. You could try that route too instead of buying new carbs. You tube has some videos how to do it. It looks easy as hell, comes with gaskets, diaphragm, o rings, filters and needle springs. I think the jet needle is separate??
Actually it is the opposite.
He is running lean due to the carbs being plugged. The choke on these restricts the carb inlet and also increases the vacuum so less air and more fuel causes it to become more rich compensating for the crab being lean.
So if using the choke helps the situation you are lean.
Your right, my head is up my rear!! I really meant to say lean!! But in any advent running it lean is not good, it can smoke his top end!!
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