1995 XP 720 Restoration

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Paint and clear on. Wet sanded and buffed, and waxed to finish it off. Getting ready to flip it over. My girlfriend found the color scheme she wanted. Second picture I got from PWCgraphics and used Microsoft paint to color change for her to visualize. That’s the second picture.

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Been awhile since I’ve updated the post. Cylinders are at the machine shop getting bored and fit with the new pistons. Engine is sound otherwise. Crank seals are replaced. Really just waiting on those cylinders to come back so I can assemble the engine and do some bead blasting and repainting. I have since started to reassemble the ski. Paint had tons of time to sit and cure. Yesterday I installed the new ride plate after I broke it when removing for paint. I also replaced the stock intake grate with a worx scoop grate. I have a new solas impeller, wear ring, and jet pump bearing rebuild kit, and I still have to purchase the worx sponsons and some extended trim tab. My girlfriend is going to have a slick ski when done. She doesn’t have a clue how nice it will be as she isn’t familiar. So far she is really liking the progress.

In the 3 weeks time that it’s taken be to update the thread, I have had a work trip for 10 days to California, I have completely tore down the engine, and got cylinders to the machine shop, I have installed black rub rail channels from a newer x4, also got black vents from a newer x4 and installed them, black gas cap and new filler since the chain was broke on the old one and it was yellow, black fuel selector plastic cover from newer x4 and reused the purple rub rail insert from the factory purple rub rails. I also purchased 3 XP 800’s which are getting build threads after this is finished. To keep the girlfriend happy, I was able to buy the 3 XP 800’s if I agreed to complete this one before starting full blown restorations in those. Attached is a couple pics. Nothing too elaborate. I’m currently on a 10 day work trip in San Antonio, and it’s looking like the whole month of December I’ll be spending at home so expect quick updates in December.

ENJOY
Jordan

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Looks good I like the sparkle.

I have new billet trim tabs in a few different colors. RacerXXX makes new aftermarket sponson kits for less than half of new Worx prices also.
 
Looks good I like the sparkle.

I have new billet trim tabs in a few different colors. RacerXXX makes new aftermarket sponson kits for less than half of new Worx prices also.

If they are less than half the cost of WORX, sign me up. I'm ready to buy
 
Updates 11/24/18
Waiting for parts. It's the name of the game. Cylinders at that machine shop. Once those are back I will do assembly, leak test, sand blast the engine, fresh paint, and return the engine to its home inside the hull.
 
Fresh crank seals and rotary shaft seal. Retorque and the bottom end is back together. Still lots to be done


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Sand always finds a way to get where it doesn't belong and you'll never get it all out. I generally just scrape my engines, wire brush and other tools in the small places. A little degreaser and some solvents and you're good. Your engine though.... I've been to the fair a few times..... sand is bad stuff. Looking good otherwise. What case sealant did you use and did you put some sealant on the internal lip seals?
 
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Well after doing some digging on some old posts, I am taking the case back apart and apply 1211 as I don’t want to have to go back and do it all again when it doesn’t pass a leak test.
 
I didn't want to say anything but I think that is a great idea and well worth your time. I did the same thing years ago and my tacky 515 tube is still in my can of similar tubes with only the one use missing from it. I clean the surfaces with acetone and then apply a thin coat of the 1211 with a clean finger to both surfaces. this gives you the "orange peel" texture. It does not need to be thick at all because you don't want it squeezing out when you torque the cases.
 
I didn't want to say anything but I think that is a great idea and well worth your time. I did the same thing years ago and my tacky 515 tube is still in my can of similar tubes with only the one use missing from it. I clean the surfaces with acetone and then apply a thin coat of the 1211 with a clean finger to both surfaces. this gives you the "orange peel" texture. It does not need to be thick at all because you don't want it squeezing out when you torque the cases.

Thanks Matt. I do appreciate the criticisms tho. I think they are important for me during my project and for anyone viewing the project. As soon as I read the older posts I ordered a tube of 1211. Lmao
 
Not criticisms..... offerings of knowledge and experience to insure one another's success. People care.
 
Good decision. I never liked the 515 on the cases as it is not fuel proof and a 2 stroke case always has fuel in it. If you split a set of cases with it you can clean almost all of it off with gas and a clean rag so it is pretty bad in my opinion. Although I prefer 1184 to 1211 for cases but either will work great.
 
Since were are on the topic. I used Moto Seal and it set up so quick I was reluctant to put any on the inner lip seals. I thought it would set up too quick. How much time do you have to assemble the cases when using it? Unless I'm missing something, I don't think you have 5 minutes. About the time I got it all on the surface and in the correct places it was.... hurry up.
 
Moto-Seal is the same as Hondabond, Yamabond and 1184. It is a semi-drying gasket so don't worry too much about it drying. Once you get both sides of the cases done put it together, don't worry about rushing it. Also there is no need to put it on the seals.

I use a small round medical stick to put a thin layer on each side as seen here...381.jpg
 
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