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1995 Seadoo SPI Starting Problem (Dess Key?)

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seminole9

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I am having trouble with a ski that I bought. This ski came as a combo with another Yamaha VRX that I bought. The seller told me that the ski ran fine but the fuel was bad. I replaced the fuel and it cranks but won't start.

So far:

The place for the dess key is hanging loose in the front of the ski with a zip tie holding the button down. Does the key need to be touching this for the motor to start? If so, how would I get the key to attach to the button if its not on the dash near the choke like its supposed to be?

The start/stop button isn't working properly and I have to use a third wire to connect the two original ones coming out of the button to "hot wire" it. Does this have any impact on the ignition system and starting of the motor?

There is a primer installed on the dash and it works properly, but it has been disconnected and a screw is in the end to pinch it off. Does this ski need a primer to get started?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
1. I'm pretty sure that your ski does not have a dess, but you will need to replace the kill switch.

2. Not knowing how the ski is wired, I can't say about the third wire, I would suggest that you download a manual for your ski, it has a wiring diagram.

3. I don't think your ski came with a primer, it should have a manual choke, and yes you will need to choke it to get the ski started.

Lou
 
LouDoo

Thanks for the response. I believe the primer was added on aftermarket. There is indeed a choke. The third wire is just to get the start/stop button to work. I will post a pic of the key as it looks just like the dess keys I see when I do a google search. It has two different keys of which I think one is a learner and the other is normal (Based on my research).

If the ski does require a dess key, could this be why it doesn't start? I have looked at some diagrams of the electronic module and there is an anti-theft/security function.

Thanks for your response.
 
The the switch just has a plunger in it... you don't have a DESS system. It's just a simple kill switch.

Have you checked the basics? (Compression, spark, fuel)
 
The ski has spark. It has compression, but I haven't tested for the exact psi (I will do this soon). There is new fuel in the tank and its full. I have sprayed starter fluid into the intake and it still won't fire up. It did sound like it wanted to start for a split second with starter fluid, but didn't do it again. I tired several times with the starter fluid afterwards with no luck. I am not a mechanic, but whenever I've sprayed starter fluid into the carbs of an outboard motor it usually starts momentarily.

I've read that the older grey fuel lines are no good, I need to check for these the next time I visit the ski. It's at a friend's auto mechanic shop.

Also, I've tried to jump it with a vehicle and starter pack to see if maybe there was an issue with the battery and I've read that this method of jumping could affect the electrical system. Could this be another issue? No blown fuses, I've checked. I have a brand new battery that is 14Amps.

Thanks
 
A couple of things do not use starting fluid, use premix in a spray bottle to try to start your engine. Also when you try to jump start you ski jump it only from another battery, with the donor vehicle not running, personally I would disconnect the donor battery, just to be safe.

Lou
 
So could I have caused any damage to the electronic module/ignition system since I have jumped the ski with a running vehicle?

Thanks for the the tip with using premix. Why is starting fluid bad?
 
If you didn't blow the 5 amp. fuse you should be O.K.

The reason not to use starting fluid is 2-strokes need lubrication, there is no oil in starting fluid.

Lou
 
Ok. My buddy who is helping me work on it did a compression check and each cylinder is 120. He thinks the carb needs to be replaced because every time we crank it while trying to get it started and then we pull the plugs, they are full of fuel.
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but your compression is low, time for at least a top end rebuild, if this is the original engine you would be better off to buy a short block.

Lou
 
If 120 means a top end rebuild, I will probably get rid of the ski. What do you think a top end rebuild will cost? If I don't decide to do this, what do you think I should sell the ski for without a trailer? The body is in fair condition and doesn't have any decals.

Also, with 120 compression shouldn't' the motor still start? If so, then even if I do a rebuild I still don't know the exact reason for not starting and would like to still figure that out before considering a rebuild.

Thanks
 
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