1995 Seadoo SP: Oil Leak

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KyleW2

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Title says it :cry: My 1995 SP is leaking oil.
I have to park my ski outside, so when it rains the footwells fill up with water and have to be dumped. I had noticed some red-ish colored water in the hull before, but it was very very lightly tinted I figured it was residue from spills while filling up the container etc. Boy, was I wrong. I have found a small puddle of oil underneath the engine. :mad:
Now, let me be straight up, I filled the oil container on the ski when I bought it almost 2.5 years ago, and it still has oil in it. So, while it is leaking and likely has been since I bought it, it is not a very fast leak or that container would be bone dry by now. Not the case, but a lot of it has leaked out as I have MAYBE put 10 hours total on the ski. Probably not even that. However, it worries me now that I know for sure there is a leak.
So, my question for you is where to look. I have "attempted" to check all of the oil injection lines and all of them appear to be in good shape and tight fitting. When I rebuilt the carburetor a few months back, one of the lines into the rotary valve was loose, so I tightened that back up but oil is still collecting.
Is there anywhere at the bottom of the engine that holds oil 24/7 that could be leaking oil out if it is not the oil lines?

On the bright side, the ski starts up super easy. On the not-so-bright side, the lakes are all over full thus not able to ride. So I might as well focus my attention on finding and fixing the leak.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Okay, I "might" have found the issue but not going to get my hopes up yet.
I read up on some different forums and found that the same clamp that was loose on the rotary valve oil line that had come loose, sometimes needs to be cut and reclamped as it wears a hole. So, I pulled that line off and sure enough, a very small hairline crack at the end of it. Cut it an inch and reinstalled. Took about 2 hours cleaning up the oil that had been collecting and the oil that spilled connecting/reconnecting the line today. I will let it sit until morning and then go back and see if there is any more collecting.
 
If that doesn’t fix it then other common spots are the rubber grommets on the bottom of the oil tank.
 
Okay, we still have a leak although very small.
I rented a inspection camera and it still appears that it is leaking at that rotary valve line. No oil residue all the way down the line until the end. How tight should the hose clamp be?
 
If the hose clamp is to tight it may have cut the hose itself. It should be just tight enough to seal... on the repair manual for my gtx it list 11 lbs.in exact tightness..... Ive switched to zip ties in most places....
 
Okay it appears it is actually leaking at one of the oil pump mounting bolts maybe? Not 100% sure. Somewhere down there
 
Okay it appears it is actually leaking at one of the oil pump mounting bolts maybe? Not 100% sure. Somewhere down there
clean were you think there is a oil leak, I cleaned my entire ski which allowed me to find the leak in my oil tank from old grommets.
 
clean were you think there is a oil leak, I cleaned my entire ski which allowed me to find the leak in my oil tank from old grommets.
I cleaned it last night. The problem is because of where it is, it is hard to see exactly where it is coming from.
I have ruled out tank grommets, the rotary valve lines and the oil pump main line. Oil is collecting underneath the oil pump. Almost directly above where the rotary oil line hooks up. I tightened all bolts last night that I could access and will check back this afternoon and see
 
The bolts will not leak oil or keep oil in, they just hold the pump to the engine. I would check the bleeder bolt and the oil pump cover screws.
 
While I am at it I am going to go ahead and replace the 3/32” lines.
What clamping method should I use?
Also, once I replace them how do I bleed them?
 
While I am at it I am going to go ahead and replace the 3/32” lines.
What clamping method should I use?
Also, once I replace them how do I bleed them?
zip ties, pour oil in tank, wait till oil comes out of bleed screw, start motor with pump arm in wot position, wait till air bubbles are gone in lines.
 
zip ties, pour oil in tank, wait till oil comes out of bleed screw, start motor with pump arm in wot position, wait till air bubbles are gone in lines.

I assume I screw the bleed screw back in before starting the motor with pump arm WOT?

Also, do I have to drain the oil tank to replace those small lines? Large lines are still good, and still have some oil left in the tank and have another gallon coming tomorrow. I don't really care if I spill some oil as the bottom of the hull is already a mess with it. Going to clean it all once I find the leak. Thanks
 
No, you put the screw back in before starting and no, you don't have to drain the oil.
 
Here is where I can feel oil collecting. It is almost along that seam. No sign of oil around any of the small hoses or the rest of the oil pump as far as I can see. Anyone ever have oil collect here and have an idea? I did tighten up the bleeder screw, it was pretty tight but gave it another 1/8 turn with the ratchet.
 

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If it's actually leaking from there and not around the pump then it's the rotary cover o-ring. You need to make sure it isn't just dripping down to this location from somewhere else.
 
I went ahead and replaced the small lines with 3/32nd tygon as well as replaced the rotary valve line. There was another small slit in the line and cutting it back more made it too short. Replaced with a higher quality hose.
Let me ask this. Will the 3/32nd lines bleed themselves while the engine is cranking, or only while the engine is running?
Makes me nervous starting engine without oil in those lines. Awaiting my shipment of another gallon of oil to bleed the system.
 
The oil lines will only bleed with the engine idling and the arm held wide open.
There will be enough residual oil in the engine to provide lubrication when bleeding the lines.
 
If it's actually leaking from there and not around the pump then it's the rotary cover o-ring. You need to make sure it isn't just dripping down to this location from somewhere else.
Okay, I think I have ruled that it is the rotary cover o ring.
Since it is already into summer, I want to use the ski and focus on a rebuild or seal replacement later down the road in the offseason. I ran across this thread: Added shut off valves for the rotary bath lines
Would this be a good way to slow the leak down? It leaked about 3/4 gallon in two years since I have owned it. I believe it is 100% external, all leaking out rather than into the engine. Any other ideas to slow it down and still use the ski in the meantime?
Thanks
 
The only thing could be the oil pump itself if you have checked all the hoses and fittings. You could get a tested and guaranteed oil pump from Nick or Jess at Westside Powersports.
 
Okay this is interesting.
I changed the oil lines about 24 hours ago. I have not cranked the ski or anything of that nature as I am waiting for the new oil to arrive. I was out looking again and noticed the new 3/32nd oil lines are about half way bled already. Is this normal? Could this be a sign that the oil pump is what is leaking and has a constant drip in it?
 
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